August, 4, 2016August, 3 International Olympic Commetee announced the Sports Climbing has been approved for the Olympic Games Tokyo 2020! It was announced on the 29th IOC Session in Rio de Janeiro
August, 4, 2016August, 7 the Catalan Kilian Jornet will set off for Tibet with Jordi Tosas. It'll be the next stage of Kilian's project “Summits of my life”. They hope to climb Everest, via Norton or Hornbein couloir, in a single push, without bottled oxygen and Sherpa support, during the monsoon season.
July, 29, 2016 Gasherbrum IV: Ales Cesen and Luka Lindic Reached North Summit on July 26th and are safely back to in Base Camp. They climbed Northwest Ridge.
July, 29, 2016Kyzyl Asker (Tien Shan, Kok Shal Too) Rwo new routes climbed by Krasnoyarsk mountaineers.
June, 3, 2016 Ukrainian Vladimir Mogila, member of 6 Himalayan expeditions, died June, 2 on Elbrus from HACE. Rescuers discovered his body on 3900 m
May, 13, 2016Makalu. May, 12 Italian couple Nieves Meroi and Romano Benet topped out at 10:00am. THis was their 13th 8000-er.
April, 26, 2016Sayram peak (Ugam ridge, Southern Kazakhstan). Three ays ago Kirill Belotserkovsky and Max Ten forged new route on the north face. It took 22 hours to get to the top and rap down the 3B route to the camp below the mountain. Category is Russian 5B or, more common for westerners, 700m WI 4 and some tricky drytooling.
April, 18, 2016 Mikhail Fomin and Nikita Balabanov - Piolet D'Or 2016 (for the climb Talung, 7349 via NW battress)All Piolets D'Or in 2016
February,26, 2016First winter ascent on Nanga Parbat! today Alex Txikon (Spain), Muhammad Ali Sadpara (Pakistan), Simone Moro (Italy) reached the summit! February 26th dawned as a beautiful summit day, as predicted by meteorologists. Climbers started from C4 on 6 a.m., were at 7800 on 12-30, at 8000 on 14-00, summited about 15-40 local time, first Ali, then Alex and Simone 20 minutes later. Tamara Lunger stopped around 100m short of the summit. She was really close – maybe less than 100m from summit – when she made the brave decision to retreat. She slipped while crossing a crevasse just below C4. She was dragged for a distance of around 200 meters, could halt herself and wasn’t seriously injured. Next morning, Tamara had some stomach issues and vomited all night before. Nonetheless, she pushed on and was forced to turn back in 100 m from the goal... “A decision that few in the world would have been able to make”, - said Simone about Tamara. All had returned to C4 on 21-00, then descended to BC Feb, 27. (info: http://altitudepakistan.blogspot.ru/2016/02/winter-2016-first-winter-ascent-of_29.html
December,9, 2015Denis Urubko: "I want to share my experience to those who need it". So there is a project to create high-altitude mountaineering team. The first stage of the project is the winter Elbrus ascent. They came to the Caucasus Dec, 2. Now the team is working on the North slope of the mountain. Dec, 7 December them ascended to 4600, spent the night and went down to 3700. Today they rest. 79-year-old Italian Mario Curnis is the member too, with the mate Matteo Gallizioli, Russians Alexander Lutokhin, Anton Kravchenko, Andrey Shlyapnikov, Evgeny Plekhov, Vassiliy Rubtsov, Alexander Radionov, Eugene Rusyn and pole Christian Madeja. In the spring it is planned to climb Lenin peak, then Cho Oyu in Fall.
December,9, 2015 Douglas Tompkins, a noted conservationist and the founder of the clothing brands North Face and Esprit, died on Tuesday after a kayaking accident on General Carrera Lake in the Patagonia. He was 72. The strong waves on the lake caused the group’s kayaks to capsize.
A military patrol boat rescued three of the boaters, and a helicopter lifted out the other three,
it said. No one else was seriously injured. Tompkins died in the intensive care unit of the hospital in Coyhaique
December,5, 2015Piolet D'Or Russia 2015 awarded to Sergei Nilov, Dmitry Golovchenko, Dmitry Grigorjev for climb to Sedoy Strazh (5481, Tien Shan)
Sedoy Strazh (5481 m, first climb, Tien Shan, Kok-Shaal Too West) the route "Devjaty Val" via East Face battress, 6B Russian grade, ( length 1835 ì, altitude difference 1230 ì, average steepness 60 grad.). 16-21 Aug 2015, rop 20 Aug.
December,4, 2015Talung (7429) climb by Mikhail Fomin & Nikita Balabanov awarded yesterday as the best Ukrainian climb in 2015
October,18, 2015Snow Leopards: 7 climbers completed the program in 2015 - Vladimir Chistikov, Kanat Naurzaliev, Carlalberto Cimenti, Vassily Drozdov, Mikhail Nosenko, Serguey Bublik and Eugeny Karepin. Congratulations!
September,25, 2015Thulagi (7095 m) had been climbed by fourpersons team from Saint Petersburg 9 Alexander Gukov, valery Shamalo, Ivan Dozhdev and Ruslan Kirichenko). It was the first ever successful climb to this peak.
September,24, 2015X International Elbrus Race.New Elbrus record set today by Polish athlete Anna Figura: 4 hrs 22 min 10 sec!!!! from Azau to West top
September,3, 2015Huandoy Sur, Peru.Guides and rescuers from Peru Expeditions managed to lower the bodies of Alexander Ruchkin and Slava Ivanov to the bottom of Huandoy Sur South Face. It was the difficult and dangerous task. We respect to rescuers.
September,2, 2015Huandoy Sur, Peru.Alexander Ruchkin and Vjacheslav Ivanov died on the descent on Huandoy Sur South face. Their bodies had been found by local guides today on the ledge 5300 m. Probably, the climbers were swept by the rockfall in the very beginning of the descent from their last bivouac Aug, 26-27.
Alexander Ruchkin was awarded by Piolet D'Or in 2005 for Jannu North Face climb, and Piolet D'Or Russia in 2009 and 2013 (for the first climb on Minya Konka massif, Sichuan, with Mikhail Mikhailov; and Kusum Kanguru (6367 m) SW Face the route "Falling into the void" with Vjacheslav Ivanov)
Vjacheslav Ivanov was three-times Champion of Russia in Mountaineering.
September,1, 2015Huandoy Sur, Peru. Alexander Ruchkin and Slava Ivanov missing on South Face.
They went to Peru to climb the new line on Huandoy Sur South Face, began the climb Aug, 20 from 4850 m, first night spent at 5300. Aug, 21 - 6 pitches of mixt. Aug, 22 - 3,5 pitches, night at 5552 m. Aug, 26 - night at 5640 m. Aug, 27 they climbed only 20 m in 5 hours. It's the last connection...
The rescue team (7 persons) from Peru Expeditions company is heading to BC now.
August, 25, 2015Snow Leopard with ski descents. Italian CarlAlberto Cimenti completed the program 2013 - Lenin Peak, Korzhenevskaya, Khan Tengri. 2014 -Pobeda peak (August, 13). 2015 -Communism peak(August, 19). Also Albertomade the ascent and ski descent on Cho Oyu and Manaslu.
August, 23, 2015Elbrus. Info from Denis Urubko. The past few days the rescuers continued to seek the third Pole, but to no avail. When the Polish trio decended from Elbrus West top, there was Artur (the guy from Cheboksary) together with them. On the way down to the Col the guys were exhausted, began to freeze, lost orientation. Artur tried to help them, made going faster. Then he started solo descend, but went astray, appeared heavily to the West of "kosaya" on the South slope of Elbrus. Stopped in the dangerous place, he managed to take pictures of the surroundings and send the photo by sell phone to the rescuers. They got this photo and understood the Artur's location. Later he was lifted by the helicopter from dangerous place.
Two Poles died at 5400 and 5300 on the North slope, and had been found there. Rescuers suggested, that the third Polish climber had possibility to go anywhere on such a huge mountain. In any case team of rescuers went by the South and North slopes many times, which where then carefully searched. Rescue team (and Urubko with them) looked into the crevasses, holes, picked up a lot of old lost items - mittens, backpacks and so on - lost by the different climbers during a lot of years, but the body was not found. The next helicopter search is planning in next few days in case of good weather. The photo: searches track Aug 22, on the North slope, rescuers on the glacier, help to the girl with broken leg
August, 22, 2015X International Elbrus Race.Boukreev's route is added to the program of X Elbrus Race. Exactly 25 years ago, Anatoly Boukreev set the unique record: 1h 47 minutes from Priut 11 to Elbrus East top. So, it would be great to give mordern climbers a chance to compete with the great Climber Anatoly Boukreev.
August, 12, 2015 Juho Knuuttila (Finland), who is 19, climbed two 7000ers this summer - Lenin peak & Khan Tengri. The next was Pobeda peak, but today Juho wrote: "After 24 hours of 100k/h winds at C4 (6400m) I decided to bail. Now safely back at BC. No frostbites etc. Pik Pobeda's totally diffirent game than Khan Tengri, Pik Kommunizma etc. "Great result for the young guy!
August, 4, 2015 Ushba.Mikhail Melnikov, 53, Snow Leopard, Everest and Nanga summiteer, lost yesterday on Ushba, Myshlyaev route, in Georgia
July, 26, 2015 Gasherbrum II. Olek Ostrovski missed on ski descent...
July, 25, 2015 Broad peak. Andrzej Bargiel summited today on about 11 am local time, alone. then descended by ski to the BC in 2 hrs. Andrzej started from BC July,23 in morning approx. 5am local time. The original plan was the speed climb, but fatal conditions (heavy snow and wind) forsed to change the plan. Today he left C3 on 3 a.m. local time. About 11am local time he reached the top. Skiing down to the base took him two hours, for approx. 20 minutes traverse of rocky foresummit, and 1 hr rest in C3. That was the first ever ski descent from Broad peak. http://wspinanie.pl
July, 20, 2015 Broad peak. The avalanche hit the seven climbers ob the route this morning, on 11 am local time. one missing (Pakistani HAP), others injured. They need heli evacuation, but the weather doesn't permit the flights yet. Chris Burke has posted a complete update as she is climbing Broad Peak and was at Broad Peak Base Camp when the avalanche occurred. She noted that other climbers rushed to aid the victims and pulled one person out from the debris. While the rescues were occurring, more avalanches were triggered. The injured need urgent medical care but helicopters, operated but the Pakistani military, are grounded in Skardu due to weather. (info: www.explorersweb.com)
July, 15, 2015Karakorum.Raheel Adnan wrote about summit fids preparation on GI and GII. The conditions in Karakoram have improved. GII summit bid will be led by Kobler & Partner expedition whose guides and Sherpa have already fixed the route till C3 (7000m). There are no commercial teams on GI and climbers will jointly open the route from C2 (6430m) to C3 (ca 7000m). Depending upon weather and mountain conditions, the climbers may return to BC or go for the summit from C3. GI climbers sat together on July 12th to finalize the summit-bid plans. Several small independent teams will be collaborating for route fixing and summit push on the mountain.
Yannick Graziani left Base Camp yesterday and reached C1 ahead of others. Other GI climbers were planning to climb directly to C2, today. They will jointly work on route opening above C2. Having already tagged C3 and spent multiple nights in C2, GII teams are more ready for summit-bid. First group of climbers left Base Camp yesterday. Others are going up today. Climbers are hoping to reach the top on Thursday. The leading group (Ngima Chhiring Lama, NgaDorchi Sherpa, Robert Gunther Herz, Laura Castillo, Yuri Contreras and Peter Schatzl) reached C1 yesterday and is on the way to C2 now. They report that recent snow made the climb from BC to C1 challenging and time-consuming. Laura Castillo wrote that it took them almost 10hrs to cover the distance which usually takes around 5.5hrs. Around knee-deep snow has covered the tracks from previous trips.
July, 15, 2015 Juho Knuuttila (Finland), who is 19 and wants to complete Snow Leopard program in one season, summited Lenin peak today on 10 am. Now he's descending (info from C2).
July, 4, 2015 "7 Summits" team, led by Ludmila Korobeshko, summited Denali today in very bad weather. Zigmund Berdykhovsky completed "7 Summits" program.
April, 12, 2015Piolets D'Or were awarded to three teams: Americans Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold for Fitz Roy traverese, Russians Aleksander Gukow and Alexey Lonchinsky for the first climb of Shy Girl route on Thamserku (6618 m), and Slovenians Ales Cesen, Luka Lindic and Marko Prezelj for the first climb on Hagshu (6657 m). Piolet for the Life-time-achievement awarded to Sir Chris Bonington.
March, 30, 2015Everest. Raphael Slawinski (Canada) with Germans David Gottler and Daniel Bartsch are going to climb the new route on Northeast Face, without supplemental oxygen. Slawinski has never climbed one of the 14 8,000-metre peaks. In 1988, Barry Blanchard and Mark Twight attempted the face. The only route up the face is Zakharov’s Couloir, it has seen three ascents and no fatalities. Slawinski’s team will be attempting a new route to the right or left.
March, 30, 2015 Tyis spring Kilian Jornet with his team is going to Everest, which is the last step of the project "Summits of My Life". He will travel to the Khumbu with a team of Jordi Tosas, Jordi Corominas, Sebastien Montaz and Vivian Bruchez. Kilian says that this spring will be a touchdown and high altitude test.
March, 25, 2015 Annapurna. Two climbers died during the descent: Samuli Mansikka (36) and Pemba Sherpa (35) Both bodies found at 7000 m. RIP...
March, 17, 2015Anatoly Ovchinnikov, well-known Russian alpinist, the coach of the 1st Soviet HImalayan expedition (Everest-82), died March, 16, at age 88
March, 17, 2015 Gennady Durov died yesterday during the climb. He and his partner Shamil Iskhanov fell to their death not far from OKtjabrenok peak summit. They climbed the route 3rd grade... Gennady was Urubko's partner in the famous Pobeda climb ("Dollar rod"), and so he was a nominee of Piolet D'Or 2012...
March, 16, 2015Winter expedition to Pobeda peak is over. Serguey Seliverstov, SMS March, 14: 2 utrom dvoika uclimbers began to descent in the morning. We stay only 5 in C2. Began to climb to C3, but the wind on the ridge forced us to turn to C2. Looked at forecast decided to go down to BC. Tired. " All are in BC.
March, 9, 2015Winter expedition to Pobeda peak, Serguey Seliverstov, SMS March, 7: «Climbed ridge, till the main wall. Set C3 (6230m). Very stron wind» SMS March, 8: " «4 climbers are going down, 5 climbers continue the climb. But the wind forced us to seat in C3. Tomorrow going to BC. Very tired»
Febuary, 26, 2015Winter expedition to Pobeda peak,The team reached 5600, then descended to BC. Temperature is -30C/
Febuary, 25, 2015Winter expedition to Pobeda peak, The team set C1 at 4600 Feb, 23, then set C2 at 5100 Feb, 24 and foxed 9 ropes more.
Febuary, 18, 2015Winter expedition to Pobeda peak, devoted to 70th anniversary of the Great Victory over the fasñizm in II WW, began yesterday. The leader of the project - Ervand Iljinsky (Almaty). The Kazakh team is already in Karakol. Climbers: Serguey Seliverstov (Bishkek), Artjom Braun (Moscow), others are from Almaty - Vassily Pivtsov, Alexander Sofrygin, Ildar Gabbasov, Dmitry Muravjev, Vitaly Zhdanov and Tursunali Aubakirov.
Febuary, 12, 2015Nanga Parbat winter. Alex Txikon, Ali Sadpara and Daniele Nardi set C3 at 6700 m. They'll spend the night there.
Febuary, 10, 2015Nanga Parbat winter. Alex Txikon writes that international team set C2 at 6000-6100 m today.
Febuary, 8, 2015 Nanga Parbat Winter Expeditions. Russian team has arrived to Islamabad yesterday. On Diamir Face Daniele Nardi joined International team which climbs Kishoffer route.
Febuary, 6, 2015 Nanga Parbat Winter Expeditions.SMS from Russians: "Today exactly 45th day as we left St. Petersburg, and, unfortunately, the time for our expedition runs to the end. The mountain is clear at last, for the first time in two weeks, but there're still snow flags on the top due to the strong wind. We pack BC and are going down".
Febuary, 3, 2015 Nanga Parbat Winter Expeditions.SMS from Russians: "We managed to return to BC through the bad weather. All are safe and sound. Nothing real on the route in such wind. You can fly to K2 at once"
Febuary, 1, 2015 Nanga Parbat Winter Expeditions.SMS from Russians: Wind 100 km/hour, snow blizzard, no visibility, the real February frost. Waiting weather improving.
January, 22, 2015 Nanga Parbat Winter Expeditions.SMS from Russians: "We set camps at 5100, 6000, 6700, deposit at 7100. The hard winter ice everywhere upper 6000".
Diamir Face: Elizabeth left the base camp without saying goodbye yesterday early morning. Tomek is going home too.
January, 20, 2015 Nanga Parbat Winter Expeditions.SMS from Russians:"Reached 7150, the place to move to Diamir Face. The huge mount! Now we rest in BC. All's OK"
January, 19, 2015Boris Korshunov, the unique 9-time Snow Leopard, who's about 80, did his 83rd Elbrus climb Jan, 8, when the temperature was -50C. Photo by Victoria Klimenko
January, 19, 2015Nanga Parbat Winter. Tomash and Elizabeth are back in BC. They have reached 7800 meters.
January, 18, 2015Nanga Parbat Winter. No news from Tomek & Elizabeth after Jan, 15. BTW, Alex Txikon with two Pakistanians Muhammad Ali ‘Sadpara’ and Muhammad Kan are going for the winter attempt on Nanga too. THey hope to reach BC to the next week end. They want to climb from the Diamir Face - Kinshoffer route or Messner route.
January, 14, 2015Nanga Parbat Winter Expeditions. Russians left BC today morning, continue to work on the route. Tomek Mackiewicz and Elisabeth Revol set C4 on the altitude about 7000 m, and are going to go up tomorrow. The weather is not good. There's very few snow on the Diamir Face.
January, 13, 2015Nanga Parbat Winter. Tomek Mackiewicz and Elisabeth Revol are in C3 at 6600m, on Messner-Hanspeter route. They will try to reach 7200m tomorrow. Daniele Nardi was in Diamir BC, today. He awaits better weather to set up C2 at 5100m. (source altitudepakistan.blogspot.com)
January, 12, 2015Nanga Parbat Winter Expedition. Guys made the deposit at 6000, fixed ropes up to the ridge, but we were swept by the wind from the ridge, so in BC again.
January, 12, 2015American climber Lonnie Dupre became the first to climb solo McKinley in January. He topped out Jan, 11. It was his fourth attempt. Only two climbers were on the highest top of Nort America before him - Artur Testov and Vladimir Ananich. But Lonnie was first who did this route solo in winter!
January, 11, 2015 Elbrus. Denis Urubko reached the West top Jan, 8 in the very cold and windy conditions.
December, 25, 2014K2 Winter expedition is cancelled. DEnis Urubko got the letter from Chinese authorities, that the team is not permitted to climb K2. Because terrorists are very active in north-west part of the country.
December, 24, 2014 Kilian Jornet set the new record! After 12:49 min he achieved in his second attempt the fastest time running up and down Aconcagua (6962)! Dec, 15 Kilian reached the top of Aconcagua for the acclimatization. Then, Dec, 19 he did the attempt of the speed acsent, but forced to turn back in 500 m from the top due to the strong wind. And yesterday - the success!
December, 21, 2014K2 Winter expedition.Denis Urubko, Alex Txikon and Adam Bielecki had planned to fly to China on Dec, 21.However, they received a notice from chinese authorities this week, in which were informed that their permit had not yet been processed.They must wait about three weeks and may not start the expedition until Jan, 9. So, the team decided to ariive to Kashmir to that date.
December, 20, 2014Susmita Maskey, 35-year-old Nepali woman arrived to Kathmandu from Mt. Vinson Massif, the highest peak of Antarctica, which was her final destination towards climbing the seven highest peaks of all the continents. Susmita started by successfully climbing Everest on May 22, 2008 for the first time and conquered it again on May 18, 2011. Then she scaled the highest peaks of the six continents in just 17 months.
November, 5, 2014Nanga Parbat. Winter expedition. Four alpinists from Saint Petersburg are going to climb this 8000-er. The team: Nickolay Totmjanin, Valery Shamalo, Serguey Kondrashkin and Victor Koval. They'll start from Russia Dec, 22
October, 7, 2014 Snow Leopard.THis year the program was completed by: Lazo Vitaly (RUS), Achim Rinortner (DE), Ishangaliev Asylbek (KZ), Kuznetsov Andrew (RUS) and Horl Hans Gunter (DE). Congratulations!
September, 21, 2014Ararat. Sep, 12, Russian-Ukrainian mini-expedition reached the top of holy Ararat (5137 m). As 24 years ago, during Everest Peace Climb expedition, they climbed together - Russian Vladimir Shataev (77, Moscow), the honored mountaineering coach of the USSR, and Ukrainian Mstislav Gorbenko (67, Odessa), the honored Master of Sports of USSR, they raised the national flags of Ukraine and Russia.
August, 24, 2014. Elbrus record. Today, aug 24, 2014, Vitaly Shkel run from Azau (2400) to the West top (5642) and returned back in 4 hrs 39 min 17 sec (up and down)! The ascent time was 3 hrs 28 min 41 sec. It's great rusult! Very close to Andrzej Bargiel's result (3 hrs 23 min 39 sec), which is still the absolute record of Elbrus climb (set in 2010). BTW, much depends of the condiions on Elbrus, and today the conditions weren't ideal.
July, 27, 2014K2. More summits today! Finnish Samuli Mansikka (without oxygen), Americans Alan Arnette, Matthew Dupuy, Garrett Madison, Kami Rita Sherpa, Fur Kancha Sherpa, Kami Tshering Sherpa. Iranian Reza Shahlaee and Macedonian Zdravko Dejanovic.
July, 26, 2014K2. The unique day! A lot of summits! Good weather. Repost from Raheel Adnan blog: Italians Tamara Lunger, Nikolaus Gruber, Giuseppe Pompili and Michele Cucchi , Pakistans Hassan Jan, Ali Durani, Rahmat Ullah Baig, Ghulam Mehdi, Ali, Muhammad Sadiq , Amin Baig, Spaniard Ferran Latorre, Chris Jensen Burke (NZ/Aus), Czechs Radek Jaros and Travnicek Jan, Britt Adrian Hayes, Sherpas Dawa Yangzum Sherpa, Pasang Lhamu Sherpa, Maya Sherpa, Lakpa Sherpa, Tsering Sherpa ... and it's not the full list Congratulations!
July, 25, 2014K2. THe great forecast for the next days! All teams are going to C4.
July, 24, 2014 Success on Broad peak. Yestarday summited Romanian Alex Gavan, Spaniard Jesus Morales, Bulgarian climbers Boyan Petrov and Ivan Tomov, two Pakistani HAPs Little Hussain and Muhammad Taqi summited along with three Taiwanese, the Mexican couple Badia Bonilla and Mauricio Lopez, Felix Alexander Berg, Richard Michael Stihler, Christian Leitinger and Torsten Neumay,. Pakistani trio, Karim Hayat, Safdar Karim and Naseer Ud-Din, July, 23: Hungarians Szilard Suhajda and Csaba Varga. (info: http://altitudepakistan.blogspot.ru )
June, 26, 2014Yosemity National Park celebtates 150th birthday! June, 30 1874 President Abraham Lincoln signed legislation enacted by Congress that established Yosemite Valley and Mariposa Grove as the first protected wild land for all time. A half century later, in 1890, the land around these two tracts was designated as Yosemite National Park.
June, 26, 20147 summits for Nepali girls. The first Nepali women team climbed Denali, the highest peak in North America. The team reached the summit at 13:45 pm June, 24. Girl's names are: Chunu Shrestha, Pema Diki Sherpa, Asha Kumari Singh, Niomdoma Sherpa and photographer Ang Tshiring Sherpa. The expedition has a target of scaling all the highest peaks of the seven continents. So far it has climbed Everest, Kosciuszko, Elbrus, Kilimanjaro and Aconcagua. Now, peak Vinson Massif of Antarctica is the destination of expedition.
May, 8, 2014Kangchenjunga NW Face.Denis: Artjom and me - we ascended to 7050 m. Alex, Adam and Dmitry going to set C3. We are going to spend the night in the snow cave at 6600 m. Very tired. heading up tomorrow.
May, 6, 2014Kangchenjunga NW Face.The third acclimatization push. Yesterday Denis and Artjom ascended to C1. Others started today morning. Now they're in C2 (6600 m). "We have supper in C2. We hardly found our deposit - it took us 6 hours! We're heading futher tomorrow".
May, 5, 2014Thamserku (6623 m) SW Face (Nepal) After the difficult climb Alexey Lonchinsky and Alexander Gukov reached the top! They did the first climb on the SW Face. Descended already to Monjo.
May, 3, 2014Lobuche, Ama Dablam, Ukrainian expedition (Odessa alpclub). Yuri Kilichenko wrote, that the team climbed new route on Lobuche. "The top, planned as training before the main goal Ama Dablam, appeared very serious. We summited after 8 days climb, the new route to Lobuche East. Via two bastions on the East Face, and the diagonal ledge between them. The route is 6A Russian grade, not 5B, as we hoped. We named it "Two arrows flight". Altitude difference 700 m, average steepness 70 degrees. Rock climbing difficulty till 6B, A3. Three nights on the wall. Summited and then descended in no visibility, and heavy snowfall. Now we're on Deboche, searching the weather forecasts...
May, 3, 2014Kangchenjunga NW Face. May, 1 Denis and Alex set C2 (6600 m), Adam, Artjom and Dmitry climb there next day. Dan and Alex hoped to summit May, 2, but were obliged to descent to BC. Other three rested in C2, when the small avalanche burried their tent. Only little shock, nobody was injured. All is in BC now.
May, 1, 2014 Ama Dablam (6812 m). In the camp at about 5000 m April 29-30 two Russian climbers died from HAPE: Victor Igolkin (62, Magnitogorsk) and Pavel Ivanovsky (52, Zlatoust). Victor was The Master of Sports of USSR and Russia, 4-times Champion of USSR in mountaineering, Snow Leopard, mountaineering instruktor, coach of the highest category, leader of the Magnitigirsk mountaineering club. He was awardwd by "Edelweiss" order. Pavel was a journalist from "Zlatoust worker".
April, 29, 2014Kangchenjunga NW Face. The second push. The goal is to set C2 at 7000 m (North Col). The expedition loads finally arrived to base camp last Friday. However, Alex's personal luggage is missing.
April, 24, 2014Tulagi (7056 m) Tulagi Russian team abandoned the climb Apr, 24 in 200 m before summit
April, 23, 2014Thamserku (6623 m) SW Face (Nepal) We'll start to climb tomorrow
April, 18, 2014Everest. The huge avalanche struck at about 6:45am local time at an altitude of about 5,800 metres.13 Sherpas deaths and 3 Sherpas missing. All climbing activities are shut down on the Nepalese/South side of Everest/
The Home Ministry as well as the Ministry of Culture, Tourism and Civil Aviation have confirmed the death of 12 mountaineers so far. Mingma Nuru Sherpa, Dorji Sherpa, Ang Tshiri Sherpa,
Nima Sherpa, Phurba Ongyal Sherpa, Lakpa Tenjing Sherpa, Chhring Ongchu Sherpa, Dorjee Khatri, Then Dorjee Sherpa, Phur Tempa Sherpa, Pasag Karma Sherpa, Asman Tamang. Still missing according to the Ministry: Tenzing Chottar Sherpa, Ankaji Sherpa, Pem Tenji Sherpa,
Ash Bahadur Gurung
April, 15, 2014Everest. Around 300 climbers will attempt to conquer Mount Everest this year's spring climbing season from Nepal side. Around 300 climbers including youngest Mathew Momiz, 16 and oldest William Mithcell Burkey, 73, from the US and women climbers Deerness Joy Christine, 65, from New Zealand and Azer Alyssa Nicole, 18, from Australia.
April, 4, 2014Ama Dablam. THe expedition organized by Odessa club, will strt April, 8. The team plan to climb Bashkirov route (6a Russian Grade) via South Face and East ridge. Members are: Yuri Kilichenko, Maxim Perevalov, Piotr POberezhny, Yuri Vlasenkov.
April, 4, 2014Thamserku (6623 m) SW Face (Nepal) The duo from Saint Petersburg Alexey Lonchinsky and Alexander Gukov left for Kathmandu March, 30. THey have briefing today. The mountain is connected by a ridge leading eastward to Kangtega. Thamserku is a prominent mountain to the east of Namche Bazaar and lies just north of Kusum Kanguru.
April, 4, 2014Azerbaijan climbers Israfil Ashurly and Firuz Dadashev today left for Nepal, they are going to Shishapangma (8027 m). They'll climb w/o oxygen and Sherpas. Israfil is Snow Leopard, climbed Everest and Kangchenjunga, took part in 58 expeditions. Firuz climbed four 7000ers in Pamir and Tien Shan
March, 30, 2014The Piolets d'Or 2014 was awarded to two ascents: the NW Face of K6 (Canadians Raphael Slawinsky and Ian Welsted) and the South Face of Annapurna solo (Swiss Ueli Steck). The South Face of Annapurna ascent (Stephane Benoist and Yannick Graziani) received a Special Mention, while Lifetime Achievement award was given to John Roskelley.
March, 26, 2014Tulagi (7056 m) Yesterday the expedition from St. Petersburg started. Climbers are: Valeri Shamalo, Ruslan Kirichenko, Denis Sushko and Andrew Golubev. The planning route: from the north-east.
March, 1, 2014 Nanga Parbat Winter:The attempt of Nanga winter first climb has been abandoned on the both sides
February, 16, 2014American climber Chad Kellogg killed by rockfall in Patagonia. Kellogg and Jens Holsten had climbed the Afanassieff Route on Fitz Roy. They reached the top on Feb, 14 and began their descent via the Supercanaleta route. After the third rappel, one of the ropes got stuck, and while pulling on the cord to try to loosen it, "the rope dislodged a block which hit Chad," Garibotti wrote at Supertopo.com. "He died instantly. It was 9 p.m. Jens continued the descent alone through the night, reaching the base early in the morning to then continue to El Chalten, the nearest town. Because of the complexities of the location, a body recovery will not be attempted."
Very sad news. Our condolences to his friends and family...
December, 15 2013Russsian Piolet D'Or awarded to Alexander Ruchkin and Vjacheslav Ivanov for Kusum Kanguru climb (new route "Falling into the Void"). Crystal Peak awarded to Denis Veretenin and Jack Bashkirtsev for the new route on Uli Biaho. Steel Angel awarded to women team Marina Kopteva, Galina CHibitok and Anastasia Petrova for their climb to Tengkampoche (route "Fight for love")
Photo by Denis Clero
December, 4 2013Seven Snow Leopards have registered this year, but only two of them have finished the program in 2013: nobody summited Pobeda peak and Communism peak in sesin 2013. Shataev's Table
August, 29 2013 Cerro Torre climbed in winter. Stephan Siegrist, Dani Arnold, Thomas Huber and Matias Villavicencio has made an outstanding and extremely rare winter ascent by climbing Via dei Ragni and summiting on 30 July. The first winter ascent of Cerro Torre was carried out in 1985 by the Italians Paolo Caruso, Maurizio Giarolli, Ermanno Salvaterra and Andrea Sarchi who climbed Maestri's Compressor Route.
August, 22 2013 Kilian Jornet has now run up the Matterhorn Lion ridge, from Cervinia centre in 2hrs 52mins, the record was until then in the hands of Bruno Brunod (1995, 3 hrs 14 min). Catalan started at 15-00 from the church of the Italian town of Cervinia to reach the top (4478 m) in 1h56'15 " The first section consists of mountain roads, the second section consists of snow. Finally, 1,000 meters were climbing with fixed ropes. Kilian will travel to Russia next to try to set the record the ascent and descent of Elbrus (5642m).
August, 16 2013 Jubilees. Vladimir Suviga (Kazakhstan): 60!Bio and achievements. In bithday Vladimir was awarded a medal of the Kazakhstan Olympic Committee
28 July, 2013 Ê2. Marty Schmidt and his son, Denali, have been killed by an avalanche at Camp 3. have found their tent, damaged by the avalanche. THey reached it Jult, 26. No contacts from next morning. The Sherpas have found their tent, damaged by the avalanche.. Marty was Schmidt, 53, and Denali, 25
28 July, 2013 Ê2. All teams decided to abort the attempts because of bad snow conditions on the route. Only Marty Schmidt and his son Denali stay on K2.
28 July, 2013 Gasherbrum I. The week ago Spanish climbers Xevi Gomez, Alvaro Paredes and Abel Alonso reached the top. But no contacts then from July, 22. All attempts to search missing climbers were failed. Guys were officially announced died. Our sinsere condolences...
21 July, 2013 Peak Pogrebetskogo. Kazakhs Gennady Durov and Murat Otepbaev climbed the new route. Detales later.
16 July, 2013Nanga Parbat. Romanians summited!!! Four climbers - Marius Gane, Teo Vlad, Zsolt Torok and Aurel Salasan - Jult, 18 set camp at 7500 ì. Marius started from the camp on 1 a.m. (and reached the summit first), others summited on 4 a.m.
16 July, 2013Nanga Parbat. Romanians climbed up to C5 (7300 m) today. There are three of team members. Tomorrow they're going to set next high-altitude camp, and July, 18 to reach the top from there.
15 July, 2013Khan Tengri direct. SErguey Seliverstov (Bishkek) and SErge Hardi (France) are going to climb direct on KHan's South Face. Previous attempt was in 1982 by the team from Leningrad (Gennady Isachenko (leader), Yuri Razumov, Boris Silin, Andrew Laletin, Nick Shustrov, Victor Kozlovsky and Yuri Stroganov). At 6500 they were forced to traverse to the Marble ridge. On black-white picture - the route 1982 . On colour picture - the line which duo hopes to climb.
11 July, 2013Gasherbrum I. Marcin Kaczkan confirmed Artur's death. Artur fell while descending Japanese Couloir and died. Our sincere condolences to the family and friends...
9 July, 2013Gasherbrum I. Artur Hajzer missed. Marcin is rescued and on the way down to camp 1. Tomorrow he probably will reach basecamp.
"On Sunday, July 7 Artur Hajzer and Marcin Kaczkan left the camp III (7150 m) to reach the summit of Gasherbrum I (8068 m). Upon reaching the height of 7600 m, they turned back due to strong wind broke off the summit. Reached the camp III (7150 m) and using radio connected with the BC, the expedition
cook, indicating that they will descend to Camp II (6400m) and everything is fine."
"Also on Sunday at 11AM Polish time (1400hrs local time) Isabella Hajzer received a text message from her husband in which he wrote:" Marcin Kaczkan fallen Japanese couloir." We have not managed to make contact with Artur Hajzer, since then. We started rescue operation, managed by the German Gasherbrum Expedition leader Thomas Laemmle. During the night of Sunday to Monday, he sent a team of high-altitude porters, whose aim was to reach Camp II (6400 m). Due to strong winds and snow, they only managed to reach the camp I and turned back to the BC. During the night of Monday to Tuesday weather improved. From Camp I (6000 m) left the group of Russian climbers who reached the camp in the morning and found Marcin there " (www.Explorersweb.com)
8 July, 2013 Broad peak. July, 4 Josef Inhoger reached the summit. It was the first summit in Karakorum in this season. Other six climbers were forced to turn bach from the foresummit due to the deep snow and no fixed ropes.
Jacek Berbeka, the brother of Maciej Berbeka, who missed March, 5 during the descent from the summit, had organized the expedition for search the bodies of Maciej and Tomasz Kowalski. 3 days ago German climbers had found the body of one of Polish climbers at 7900 m. It's unclear yet, was it Maciej or Tomasz. opes to reach that point in the nearest days.
Nanga Parbat. Strong wind didn't allow the team to go for summit. They have descended to lower camp, now and will wait for another summit weather window.
5 July, 2013 Nanga Parbat. Romanian team yesterday set C4 at 7200 m. Tonight they are planning the summit bid.
2 July, 2013 In those 2 weeks, when I was out of info sourses (Internet and others) the awful tragedy happened in Nanga Parbat BC (Diamir Face) June, 22. Taliban gunmen murdered ten foreign mountaineers and a Pakistani cook. The victims included three Ukrainians, three Chinese, two Slovaks, a Nepali, a Pakistani, and a Lithuanian. Only two - Pakistani Sher Khan and Chineese Zhang Jingchuan stayed alive in BC, and called for help. Pakistan Army helicopters landed in BC next morning. Other climbers, who were in higher camps on mountain, descended to BC and were evacuated to the army base, then to Islamabad.
The list of victims:
Ukrainians Igor Svergun, Kashaev Badawi, Konyaev Dmitry, Chineses Rao Jianfeng, Yang Chunfeng, Honglu Chen, Lithuanian, Ernestas Marksaitis, Nepali Sona Sherpa, Pakistani Ali Hussain, Slovaks Anton Dobes è Peter Sperka... My deepest condolences...
18 June, 2013 Nanga Parbat, International expedition. Attempted to reach C2, but were forced to turn back because of heavy snowfalls. Romanians on Rupal Face set C1 June, 14.
12 June, 2013 Nanga Parbat, International expedition. June, 9 the team arrived to BC. Next day the group ascended to set C1.
7 June, 2013 Nanga Parbat. Pakistani climbers Karim Hayyat, Naseer Uddin è Sher Khan set C1 on Kinshofer route.
6 June, 2013 Nanga Parbat, Ukrainian expedition. Kinshofer route. Today started. Members: Igor Svergun (leader), Alexander Zakolodny, Dmitry Konjaev, Mikhail Kolotushkin, Danil Yasjuk, Badavi Kashaev, Bidzina Gudzhabidze (Georgia), Afi Gigani (Georgia), Anton Dobes (Slovakia), Peter Shperka (Slovakia).
5 June, 2013 Nanga Parbat, International expedition. Flew to Islamabad June, 3. Kinshofer route. Members: Ola (Aleksandra) Dzik (POL, leader), Nina Adjanin (SER), Ismail Asgarov (AZ), Israfil AShurly (AZ), Saulius Damulevichius (LTH), Gabriel Filippi (CAN), Igor Karabin (UKR), Gennady Kirievsky (RUS), Gleb Sokolov (RUS), Alexey Kosjakov (RUS), Alexander Lutokhin (RUS), Andrew Manuilov (RUS), Ernestas Marksaitis (LTH), Oleg Obrizan (RUS), Dmitry Sinev (RUS), Yacek Teler (POL), Ivan Tomov (BOL-RUS), Mikhail Veshagin (RUS), Natalia Zenina (LTV).
16 May, 2013Everest. Alexey's body has been airlifted to Kathmandu already. Denis(8 p.m.): three of us - me, Damien Binigas and Lakpa Sherpa - flew to the bottom of the wall, packed the body, carried it to the convenient point (100 m), where the pilot Maurizio Folini took the body and then us too.
16 May, 2013 Lhotse. Victor Koval and Sergey Kondrashkin summited Lhotse today, about 1 p.m. Descended to 7800.
15 May, 2013Everest. Can't, can't, can't believe... Good bye, Alex...
Today Morning Alexey Bolotov died on Everest at 5600.
25 April, 2013Everest SW Face in alpine style. Yesterday the duo reached 7400 and set C3 on normal route for other climbers. Then descended to BC. Today they're going to the valley, Deboche village, for some days rest in green zone, - before the start to the main goal - newroute in alpine style on Everest SW Face.
18 April, 2013Everest SW Face in alpine style. Alex: We’ve managed to view our route closely—a very good one. Is it scary? Yes, it is! We should make it as quick as possible. But the goal for today is to complete our acclimatization.
3 April, 2013Elbrus: on the slope at 4900 m near Pastukhov rocks rescuers found bodies of climbers, who were missing in the beginning of March: Pole Pavel Gostinski and Iraninan Ali-Atabi Sirelli. Now they're transporting to the valley.