March, 1, 2014 Nanga Parbat Winter:The attempt of Nanga winter first climb has been abandoned on the both sides
February, 16, 2014American climber Chad Kellogg killed by rockfall in Patagonia. Kellogg and Jens Holsten had climbed the Afanassieff Route on Fitz Roy. They reached the top on Feb, 14 and began their descent via the Supercanaleta route. After the third rappel, one of the ropes got stuck, and while pulling on the cord to try to loosen it, "the rope dislodged a block which hit Chad," Garibotti wrote at Supertopo.com. "He died instantly. It was 9 p.m. Jens continued the descent alone through the night, reaching the base early in the morning to then continue to El Chalten, the nearest town. Because of the complexities of the location, a body recovery will not be attempted."
Very sad news. Our condolences to his friends and family...
December, 15 2013Russsian Piolet D'Or awarded to Alexander Ruchkin and Vjacheslav Ivanov for Kusum Kanguru climb (new route "Falling into the Void"). Crystal Peak awarded to Denis Veretenin and Jack Bashkirtsev for the new route on Uli Biaho. Steel Angel awarded to women team Marina Kopteva, Galina CHibitok and Anastasia Petrova for their climb to Tengkampoche (route "Fight for love")
Photo by Denis Clero
December, 4 2013Seven Snow Leopards have registered this year, but only two of them have finished the program in 2013: nobody summited Pobeda peak and Communism peak in sesin 2013. Shataev's Table
August, 29 2013 Cerro Torre climbed in winter. Stephan Siegrist, Dani Arnold, Thomas Huber and Matias Villavicencio has made an outstanding and extremely rare winter ascent by climbing Via dei Ragni and summiting on 30 July. The first winter ascent of Cerro Torre was carried out in 1985 by the Italians Paolo Caruso, Maurizio Giarolli, Ermanno Salvaterra and Andrea Sarchi who climbed Maestri's Compressor Route.
August, 22 2013 Kilian Jornet has now run up the Matterhorn Lion ridge, from Cervinia centre in 2hrs 52mins, the record was until then in the hands of Bruno Brunod (1995, 3 hrs 14 min). Catalan started at 15-00 from the church of the Italian town of Cervinia to reach the top (4478 m) in 1h56'15 " The first section consists of mountain roads, the second section consists of snow. Finally, 1,000 meters were climbing with fixed ropes. Kilian will travel to Russia next to try to set the record the ascent and descent of Elbrus (5642m).
August, 16 2013 Jubilees. Vladimir Suviga (Kazakhstan): 60!Bio and achievements. In bithday Vladimir was awarded a medal of the Kazakhstan Olympic Committee
28 July, 2013 Ê2. Marty Schmidt and his son, Denali, have been killed by an avalanche at Camp 3. have found their tent, damaged by the avalanche. THey reached it Jult, 26. No contacts from next morning. The Sherpas have found their tent, damaged by the avalanche.. Marty was Schmidt, 53, and Denali, 25
28 July, 2013 Ê2. All teams decided to abort the attempts because of bad snow conditions on the route. Only Marty Schmidt and his son Denali stay on K2.
28 July, 2013 Gasherbrum I. The week ago Spanish climbers Xevi Gomez, Alvaro Paredes and Abel Alonso reached the top. But no contacts then from July, 22. All attempts to search missing climbers were failed. Guys were officially announced died. Our sinsere condolences...
21 July, 2013 Peak Pogrebetskogo. Kazakhs Gennady Durov and Murat Otepbaev climbed the new route. Detales later.
16 July, 2013Nanga Parbat. Romanians summited!!! Four climbers - Marius Gane, Teo Vlad, Zsolt Torok and Aurel Salasan - Jult, 18 set camp at 7500 ì. Marius started from the camp on 1 a.m. (and reached the summit first), others summited on 4 a.m.
16 July, 2013Nanga Parbat. Romanians climbed up to C5 (7300 m) today. There are three of team members. Tomorrow they're going to set next high-altitude camp, and July, 18 to reach the top from there.
15 July, 2013Khan Tengri direct. SErguey Seliverstov (Bishkek) and SErge Hardi (France) are going to climb direct on KHan's South Face. Previous attempt was in 1982 by the team from Leningrad (Gennady Isachenko (leader), Yuri Razumov, Boris Silin, Andrew Laletin, Nick Shustrov, Victor Kozlovsky and Yuri Stroganov). At 6500 they were forced to traverse to the Marble ridge. On black-white picture - the route 1982 . On colour picture - the line which duo hopes to climb.
11 July, 2013Gasherbrum I. Marcin Kaczkan confirmed Artur's death. Artur fell while descending Japanese Couloir and died. Our sincere condolences to the family and friends...
9 July, 2013Gasherbrum I. Artur Hajzer missed. Marcin is rescued and on the way down to camp 1. Tomorrow he probably will reach basecamp.
"On Sunday, July 7 Artur Hajzer and Marcin Kaczkan left the camp III (7150 m) to reach the summit of Gasherbrum I (8068 m). Upon reaching the height of 7600 m, they turned back due to strong wind broke off the summit. Reached the camp III (7150 m) and using radio connected with the BC, the expedition
cook, indicating that they will descend to Camp II (6400m) and everything is fine."
"Also on Sunday at 11AM Polish time (1400hrs local time) Isabella Hajzer received a text message from her husband in which he wrote:" Marcin Kaczkan fallen Japanese couloir." We have not managed to make contact with Artur Hajzer, since then. We started rescue operation, managed by the German Gasherbrum Expedition leader Thomas Laemmle. During the night of Sunday to Monday, he sent a team of high-altitude porters, whose aim was to reach Camp II (6400 m). Due to strong winds and snow, they only managed to reach the camp I and turned back to the BC. During the night of Monday to Tuesday weather improved. From Camp I (6000 m) left the group of Russian climbers who reached the camp in the morning and found Marcin there " (www.Explorersweb.com)
8 July, 2013 Broad peak. July, 4 Josef Inhoger reached the summit. It was the first summit in Karakorum in this season. Other six climbers were forced to turn bach from the foresummit due to the deep snow and no fixed ropes.
Jacek Berbeka, the brother of Maciej Berbeka, who missed March, 5 during the descent from the summit, had organized the expedition for search the bodies of Maciej and Tomasz Kowalski. 3 days ago German climbers had found the body of one of Polish climbers at 7900 m. It's unclear yet, was it Maciej or Tomasz. opes to reach that point in the nearest days.
Nanga Parbat. Strong wind didn't allow the team to go for summit. They have descended to lower camp, now and will wait for another summit weather window.
5 July, 2013 Nanga Parbat. Romanian team yesterday set C4 at 7200 m. Tonight they are planning the summit bid.
2 July, 2013 In those 2 weeks, when I was out of info sourses (Internet and others) the awful tragedy happened in Nanga Parbat BC (Diamir Face) June, 22. Taliban gunmen murdered ten foreign mountaineers and a Pakistani cook. The victims included three Ukrainians, three Chinese, two Slovaks, a Nepali, a Pakistani, and a Lithuanian. Only two - Pakistani Sher Khan and Chineese Zhang Jingchuan stayed alive in BC, and called for help. Pakistan Army helicopters landed in BC next morning. Other climbers, who were in higher camps on mountain, descended to BC and were evacuated to the army base, then to Islamabad.
The list of victims:
Ukrainians Igor Svergun, Kashaev Badawi, Konyaev Dmitry, Chineses Rao Jianfeng, Yang Chunfeng, Honglu Chen, Lithuanian, Ernestas Marksaitis, Nepali Sona Sherpa, Pakistani Ali Hussain, Slovaks Anton Dobes è Peter Sperka... My deepest condolences...
18 June, 2013 Nanga Parbat, International expedition. Attempted to reach C2, but were forced to turn back because of heavy snowfalls. Romanians on Rupal Face set C1 June, 14.
12 June, 2013 Nanga Parbat, International expedition. June, 9 the team arrived to BC. Next day the group ascended to set C1.
7 June, 2013 Nanga Parbat. Pakistani climbers Karim Hayyat, Naseer Uddin è Sher Khan set C1 on Kinshofer route.
6 June, 2013 Nanga Parbat, Ukrainian expedition. Kinshofer route. Today started. Members: Igor Svergun (leader), Alexander Zakolodny, Dmitry Konjaev, Mikhail Kolotushkin, Danil Yasjuk, Badavi Kashaev, Bidzina Gudzhabidze (Georgia), Afi Gigani (Georgia), Anton Dobes (Slovakia), Peter Shperka (Slovakia).
5 June, 2013 Nanga Parbat, International expedition. Flew to Islamabad June, 3. Kinshofer route. Members: Ola (Aleksandra) Dzik (POL, leader), Nina Adjanin (SER), Ismail Asgarov (AZ), Israfil AShurly (AZ), Saulius Damulevichius (LTH), Gabriel Filippi (CAN), Igor Karabin (UKR), Gennady Kirievsky (RUS), Gleb Sokolov (RUS), Alexey Kosjakov (RUS), Alexander Lutokhin (RUS), Andrew Manuilov (RUS), Ernestas Marksaitis (LTH), Oleg Obrizan (RUS), Dmitry Sinev (RUS), Yacek Teler (POL), Ivan Tomov (BOL-RUS), Mikhail Veshagin (RUS), Natalia Zenina (LTV).
16 May, 2013Everest. Alexey's body has been airlifted to Kathmandu already. Denis(8 p.m.): three of us - me, Damien Binigas and Lakpa Sherpa - flew to the bottom of the wall, packed the body, carried it to the convenient point (100 m), where the pilot Maurizio Folini took the body and then us too.
16 May, 2013 Lhotse. Victor Koval and Sergey Kondrashkin summited Lhotse today, about 1 p.m. Descended to 7800.
15 May, 2013Everest. Can't, can't, can't believe... Good bye, Alex...
Today Morning Alexey Bolotov died on Everest at 5600.
25 April, 2013Everest SW Face in alpine style. Yesterday the duo reached 7400 and set C3 on normal route for other climbers. Then descended to BC. Today they're going to the valley, Deboche village, for some days rest in green zone, - before the start to the main goal - newroute in alpine style on Everest SW Face.
18 April, 2013Everest SW Face in alpine style. Alex: We’ve managed to view our route closely—a very good one. Is it scary? Yes, it is! We should make it as quick as possible. But the goal for today is to complete our acclimatization.
3 April, 2013Elbrus: on the slope at 4900 m near Pastukhov rocks rescuers found bodies of climbers, who were missing in the beginning of March: Pole Pavel Gostinski and Iraninan Ali-Atabi Sirelli. Now they're transporting to the valley.