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November, 5, 2014 Nanga Parbat. Winter expedition. Four alpinists from Saint Petersburg are going to climb this 8000-er. The team: Nickolay Totmjanin, Valery Shamalo, Serguey Kondrashkin and Victor Koval. They'll start from Russia Dec, 22

October, 24, 2014 Jerzy Kukuczka, the outstanding Polish mountaineer,himalaist, who was the second in the world who climbs all 14 8000-ers, died 25 years ago, October, 24, 1989 on the Lhotse South Face... We remember him!

October, 7, 2014 Snow Leopard. THis year the program was completed by: Lazo Vitaly (RUS), Achim Rinortner (DE), Ishangaliev Asylbek (KZ), Kuznetsov Andrew (RUS) and Horl Hans Gunter (DE). Congratulations!

October, 1, 2014 India, Kashmir. Kopteva & Chibitok climbed virgin North-West Face of Golden Sentinel (5200 ). The route named as "Samurai's daughter".

October, 1, 2014 Gasherbrum V. The first ascent by Korean team

September, 26, 2014 Shishapangma Avalanche: Andrea Zambaldi and Sebastian Haag disappear, Martin Maier survives

September, 25, 2014 Manaslu. Today Polish alpinist Andrzej Bargiel set new record: he reached the top in 14 hrs 5 min from the base camp. Congrats!

September, 21, 2014 Ararat. Sep, 12, Russian-Ukrainian mini-expedition reached the top of holy Ararat (5137 m). As 24 years ago, during Everest Peace Climb expedition, they climbed together - Russian Vladimir Shataev (77, Moscow), the honored mountaineering coach of the USSR, and Ukrainian Mstislav Gorbenko (67, Odessa), the honored Master of Sports of USSR, they raised the national flags of Ukraine and Russia.

August, 29, 2014. Shafat fortress. India, Kashmir. Kopteva & Chibitok are heading to the first climb.

August, 24, 2014. Elbrus record. Today, aug 24, 2014, Vitaly Shkel run from Azau (2400) to the West top (5642) and returned back in 4 hrs 39 min 17 sec (up and down)! The ascent time was 3 hrs 28 min 41 sec. It's great rusult! Very close to Andrzej Bargiel's result (3 hrs 23 min 39 sec), which is still the absolute record of Elbrus climb (set in 2010). BTW, much depends of the condiions on Elbrus, and today the conditions weren't ideal.

July, 27, 2014 K2. More summits today! FinnishSamuli Mansikka (without oxygen), Americans Alan Arnette, Matthew Dupuy, Garrett Madison, Kami Rita Sherpa, Fur Kancha Sherpa, Kami Tshering Sherpa. Iranian Reza Shahlaee and Macedonian Zdravko Dejanovic.

July, 26, 2014 K2. The unique day! A lot of summits! Good weather. Repost from Raheel Adnan blog: Italians Tamara Lunger, Nikolaus Gruber, Giuseppe Pompili and Michele Cucchi , Pakistans Hassan Jan, Ali Durani, Rahmat Ullah Baig,Ghulam Mehdi, Ali, Muhammad Sadiq, Amin Baig, Spaniard Ferran Latorre,Chris Jensen Burke (NZ/Aus), Czechs Radek Jaros and Travnicek Jan, Britt Adrian Hayes, Sherpas Dawa Yangzum Sherpa, Pasang Lhamu Sherpa, Maya Sherpa,Lakpa Sherpa,Tsering Sherpa ... and it's not the full list Congratulations!

July, 25, 2014 K2. THe great forecast for the next days! All teams are going to C4.

July, 24, 2014 Success on Broad peak. Yestarday summited Romanian Alex Gavan, Spaniard Jesus Morales, Bulgarian climbers Boyan Petrov and Ivan Tomov, two Pakistani HAPs Little Hussain and Muhammad Taqi summited along with three Taiwanese, the Mexican couple Badia Bonilla and Mauricio Lopez, Felix Alexander Berg, Richard Michael Stihler, Christian Leitinger and Torsten Neumay,.Pakistani trio, Karim Hayat, Safdar Karim and Naseer Ud-Din, July, 23: Hungarians Szilard Suhajda and Csaba Varga. (info: http://altitudepakistan.blogspot.ru )

July, 2, 2014 K2 Base Camp the highest meteorological climate monitoring station in Baltoro area has been successfully installed

June, 30, 2014 Elbrus. Mountain rescuer Abdulkhalim Elmezov (KBR climbing federation presidend and 2-ce Everest summiter) summited Elbrus with his five brothers and two nephews! The elder brother is 66 years, younger is 50!

June, 30, 2014 Pakistan K2 Expedition 2 set yesterday at 6800 m.

June, 26, 2014 Yosemity National Park celebtates 150th birthday! June, 30 1874 President Abraham Lincoln signedlegislation enacted by Congress that established Yosemite Valley and Mariposa Grove as the first protected wild land for all time. A half century later, in 1890, the land around these two tracts was designated as Yosemite National Park.

June, 26, 2014 7 summits for Nepali girls. The first Nepali women team climbed Denali, the highest peak in North America.The team reached the summit at 13:45 pm June, 24. Girl's names are: Chunu Shrestha, Pema Diki Sherpa, Asha Kumari Singh, Niomdoma Sherpa and photographer Ang Tshiring Sherpa. The expedition has a target of scaling all the highest peaks of the seven continents. So far it has climbed Everest, Kosciuszko, Elbrus, Kilimanjaro and Aconcagua. Now, peak Vinson Massif of Antarctica is the destination of expedition.

June, 25, 2014 Pakistan K2 Expedition reaches base camp at 5000 m, and are setting ABC.

June, 25, 2014 Brief Report On The UAAA Council Meeting In Hong Kong 2014

June, 20, 2014 Kilian Jornet set Denali record: ascent +descent 11 hrs 48 min!

June, 3, 2014 Denali. Jing Wang June, 1 flew to Kahiltna glacier basecamp to start the climb of West Ridge with AMS guides.

May, 31, 2014 Kangchenjunga. Normal route. The international team summited May, 18: Zorok Lakpa - giude, Nepal,
Chatur Tamng (Nepal/Russia)
Lakpa Chiri Sherpa (Nepal)
Oksana Mornava (Russia)
Arkady Ryzhenko (Russia)
Andrew Manuilov (Russia)
Tulsi Pradzh (India)
Purba Sherpa (Nepal)
Tashio Masimoto (Japan)
Pemba Sherpa (Nepal)

May, 27, 2014 Jing Wang summited Everest from South side!

May, 19, 2014 Kangchenjunga, normal route. Jorge Egocheaga and Martin Ramos summited without bottled oxygen, at 10-00 May, 18

May, 19, 2014 Cho Oyu (8201) MAI team summited today: Yuri Kruglov, Mikhail Volkov, Nick Sinjushin, Anna Frankevich, Anna Tsvetova and Pavel Tsvetov. Descended to C3.

May, 19, 2014 Elbrus: The body of lost climber Ukraininan Nickolay Zubritsky has been found by rescuers May, 16 near Pastuhkov rocks.

May, 19, 2014 Kangchenjunga NW Face. Denis: Summited Kangchenjunga on 9-40. Now I'm in C4. Nobody else there. Continue to descend to C3.

May, 18, 2014 Kangchenjunga NW Face. Denis wrote in his facebook, that Alex, Adam and Dmitry reached 8350 on 16-30, and returned to C4. Denis and Artjom are in C4.

May, 18, 2014 Kangchenjunga, normal route. Carlos Soria (75) summited today! Congrats! He descended to C3. Photo: Carlos Soria Twitter.

May, 15, 2014 Kangchenjunga NW Face. Alex, Adam & Dmitry ascended to C2.

May, 14, 2014 Kangchenjunga NW Face. Urubko about the nearest plans. Alex, Adam & Dmitry are in C1 (6000).

May, 12, 2014 Kangchenjunga NW Face. Happy birthday, Adam!

May, 12, 2014 Everest (Nepal side) American climber Cleo Weidlich, 51, is on her way to Lhotse, and Chineese Wang Jing, 40, is heading to Everest.

May, 11, 2014 Kangchenjunga NW Face. BC. The team climb not original British route, but more left and steep.

May, 9, 2014 Kangchenjunga NW Face. Alex, Adam & Dmitry are at 7020 m, about North col

May, 8, 2014 Kangchenjunga NW Face. Denis: Artjom and me - we ascended to 7050 m. Alex, Adam and Dmitry going to set C3. We are going to spend the night in the snow cave at 6600 m. Very tired. heading up tomorrow.

May, 6, 2014 Kangchenjunga NW Face. The third acclimatization push. Yesterday Denis and Artjom ascended to C1. Others started today morning. Now they're in C2 (6600 m). "We have supper in C2. We hardly found our deposit - it took us 6 hours! We're heading futher tomorrow".

May, 5, 2014 Thamserku (6623 m) SW Face (Nepal) After the difficult climb Alexey Lonchinsky and Alexander Gukov reached the top! They did the first climb on the SW Face. Descended already to Monjo.

May, 3, 2014 Lobuche, Ama Dablam, Ukrainian expedition (Odessa alpclub). Yuri Kilichenko wrote, that the team climbed new route on Lobuche. "The top, planned as training before the main goal Ama Dablam, appeared very serious. We summited after 8 days climb, the new route to Lobuche East. Via two bastions on the East Face, and the diagonal ledge between them. The route is 6A Russian grade, not 5B, as we hoped. We named it "Two arrows flight". Altitude difference 700 m, average steepness 70 degrees. Rock climbing difficulty till 6B, A3. Three nights on the wall. Summited and then descended in no visibility, and heavy snowfall. Now we're on Deboche, searching the weather forecasts...

May, 3, 2014 Kangchenjunga NW Face. May, 1 Denis and Alex set C2 (6600 m), Adam, Artjom and Dmitry climb there next day. Dan and Alex hoped to summit May, 2, but were obliged to descent to BC. Other three rested in C2, when the small avalanche burried their tent. Only little shock, nobody was injured. All is in BC now.

May, 1, 2014 Ama Dablam (6812 m). In the camp at about 5000 m April 29-30 two Russian climbers died from HAPE: Victor Igolkin (62, Magnitogorsk) and Pavel Ivanovsky (52, Zlatoust). Victor was The Master of Sports of USSR and Russia, 4-times Champion of USSR in mountaineering, Snow Leopard, mountaineering instruktor, coach of the highest category, leader of the Magnitigirsk mountaineering club. He was awardwd by "Edelweiss" order. Pavel was a journalist from "Zlatoust worker".

 Victor Igolkin
Pavel Ivanovsky

April, 29, 2014 Kangchenjunga NW Face. The second push. The goal is to set C2 at 7000 m (North Col). The expedition loads finally arrived to base camp last Friday. However, Alex's personal luggage is missing.

April, 24, 2014 Tulagi (7056 m) Tulagi Russian team abandoned the climb Apr, 24 in 200 m before summit

April, 23, 2014 Thamserku (6623 m) SW Face (Nepal) We'll start to climb tomorrow

April, 23, 2014 Kangchenjunga NW Face. Detailed plans

April, 22, 2014 Tulagi (7056 m) We'll climb the bastion tomorrow

April, 21, 2014 Thamserku (6623 m) SW Face (Nepal) Acclimatized on Island peak.

April, 21, 2014 Kangchenjunga NW Face.The team reached the BC.

April, 21, 2014 Tulagi (7056 m) reached 5000 m.

April, 18, 2014 Everest. The huge avalanche struck at about 6:45am local time at an altitude of about 5,800 metres.13 Sherpas deaths and 3 Sherpas missing. All climbing activities are shut down on the Nepalese/South side of Everest/

The Home Ministry as well as the Ministry of Culture, Tourism and Civil Aviation have confirmed the death of 12 mountaineers so far. Mingma Nuru Sherpa, Dorji Sherpa, Ang Tshiri Sherpa,
Nima Sherpa, Phurba Ongyal Sherpa, Lakpa Tenjing Sherpa, Chhring Ongchu Sherpa, Dorjee Khatri, Then Dorjee Sherpa, Phur Tempa Sherpa, Pasag Karma Sherpa, Asman Tamang. Still missing according to the Ministry: Tenzing Chottar Sherpa, Ankaji Sherpa, Pem Tenji Sherpa,
Ash Bahadur Gurung

April, 15, 2014 Everest. Around 300 climbers will attempt to conquer Mount Everest this year's spring climbing season from Nepal side. Around 300 climbers including youngest Mathew Momiz, 16 and oldest William Mithcell Burkey, 73, from the US and women climbers Deerness Joy Christine, 65, from New Zealand and Azer Alyssa Nicole, 18, from Australia.

April, 4, 2014 Ama Dablam. THe expedition organized by Odessa club, will strt April, 8. The team plan to climb Bashkirov route (6a Russian Grade) via South Face and East ridge. Members are: Yuri Kilichenko, Maxim Perevalov, Piotr POberezhny, Yuri Vlasenkov.

April, 4, 2014 Thamserku (6623 m) SW Face (Nepal) The duo from Saint Petersburg Alexey Lonchinsky and Alexander Gukov left for Kathmandu March, 30. THey have briefing today. The mountain is connected by a ridge leading eastward to Kangtega. Thamserku is a prominent mountain to the east of Namche Bazaar and lies just north of Kusum Kanguru.

April, 4, 2014 Azerbaijan climbers Israfil Ashurly and Firuz Dadashev today left for Nepal, they are going to Shishapangma (8027 m). They'll climb w/o oxygen and Sherpas. Israfil is Snow Leopard, climbed Everest and Kangchenjunga, took part in 58 expeditions. Firuz climbed four 7000ers in Pamir and Tien Shan

March, 30, 2014 The Piolets d'Or 2014 was awarded to two ascents: the NW Face of K6 (Canadians Raphael Slawinsky and Ian Welsted) and the South Face of Annapurna solo (Swiss Ueli Steck). The South Face of Annapurna ascent (Stephane Benoist and Yannick Graziani) received a Special Mention, while Lifetime Achievement award was given to John Roskelley.

March, 26, 2014 Tulagi (7056 m) Yesterday the expedition from St. Petersburg started. Climbers are: Valeri Shamalo, Ruslan Kirichenko, Denis Sushko and Andrew Golubev. The planning route: from the north-east.

March, 24, 2014 Winter Climbing Nanga Parbat | An Unfinished Anecdote

March, 20, 2014 Jing Wang: 7 summits +2 poles program. In 2014 she had already reached South Pole and tops of Vinson peak, Aconcagua, Kosciusko, Carstensz, Kilimanjaro and Elbrus

March, 1, 2014 Nanga Parbat Winter: The attempt of Nanga winter first climb has been abandoned on the both sides

February, 16, 2014 American climber Chad Kellogg killed by rockfall in Patagonia. Kellogg and Jens Holsten had climbed the Afanassieff Route on Fitz Roy. They reached the top on Feb, 14 and began their descent via the Supercanaleta route. After the third rappel, one of the ropes got stuck, and while pulling on the cord to try to loosen it, "the rope dislodged a block which hit Chad," Garibotti wrote at Supertopo.com. "He died instantly. It was 9 p.m. Jens continued the descent alone through the night, reaching the base early in the morning to then continue to El Chalten, the nearest town. Because of the complexities of the location, a body recovery will not be attempted."

Very sad news. Our condolences to his friends and family...

February, 13, 2014 Kilian Jornet voted People's Choice Adventurer of the Year

January, 28, 2014 Nanga Parbat Winter: the Bace Camp at 4500. Planned the normal route. No news yet.

December, 15 2013 Russsian Piolet D'Or awarded to Alexander Ruchkin and Vjacheslav Ivanov for Kusum Kanguru climb (new route "Falling into the Void"). Crystal Peak awarded to Denis Veretenin and Jack Bashkirtsev for the new route on Uli Biaho. Steel Angel awarded to women team Marina Kopteva, Galina CHibitok and Anastasia Petrova for their climb to Tengkampoche (route "Fight for love")

Photo by Denis Clero

 

 

 

December, 4 2013 Seven Snow Leopards have registered this year, but only two of them have finished the program in 2013: nobody summited Pobeda peak and Communism peak in sesin 2013. Shataev's Table

October, 10 2013. Tengmoche (Tengkangpoche). Nepal. Women trio for the new route. Marina Kopteva, Galina Chibitok and Anastasia Petrova! Summit! SMS today: "52 hrs from the end of fixed ropes to the top, plus the descent. Without rest and food. 17 days fron all 19 on the wall were in extremely bad weather and 10 of them - awful snowfalls! It was the most difficult and scary route ever for us!" The new line was called "THe buttle for the love"

October, 10 2013. Ueli Steck summits Annapurna, alone up South Face. He's back to BC already. Info: www.planetmountain.com

September, 25 2013. VIII International Elbrus Race. Results. Kilian Jornet and Vitaly Shkel reached the finish line at 5000 m simultaneously: 2 hrs 37 min 06 sec

September, 12 2013. VIII International Elbrus Race. Press release

August, 29 2013 Cerro Torre climbed in winter. Stephan Siegrist, Dani Arnold, Thomas Huber and Matias Villavicencio has made an outstanding and extremely rare winter ascent by climbing Via dei Ragni and summiting on 30 July. The first winter ascent of Cerro Torre was carried out in 1985 by the Italians Paolo Caruso, Maurizio Giarolli, Ermanno Salvaterra and Andrea Sarchi who climbed Maestri's Compressor Route.

 

 

August, 29 2013 Tengmoche. Nepal. Women trio for the new route. Marina Kopteva, Galina Chibitok and Anastasia Petrova! Khan TEngri Sviridenko route

August, 29 2013 Khan Tengri. Aug, 19 Krasnoyarsk team (Pugovkin, Yanushevich, Kalita, Zhigalov) climbed Sviridenko route (SouthWest Face), variant, 6B Russian grade, 4 nights (record time). Congrats! (photo Sviridenko route, 1982)

 

August, 22 2013 Kilian Jornet has now run up the Matterhorn Lion ridge, from Cervinia centre in 2hrs 52mins , the record was until then in the hands of Bruno Brunod (1995, 3 hrs 14 min). Catalan started at 15-00 from the church of the Italian town of Cervinia to reach the top (4478 m) in 1h56'15 " The first section consists of mountain roads, the second section consists of snow. Finally, 1,000 meters were climbing with fixed ropes. Kilian will travel to Russia next to try to set the record the ascent and descent of Elbrus (5642m).

Vladimir SuvigaAugust, 16 2013 Jubilees. Vladimir Suviga (Kazakhstan): 60! Bio and achievements. In bithday Vladimir was awarded a medal of the Kazakhstan Olympic Committee

August, 16 2013 Elbrus records: Andrzej Bargiel, Svetlana Sharipova, Anton Proshenko. Are you registered on VIII INternational Elbrus Race?

August, 15 2013 Denis Veretenin and Eugeny Bashkirtsev just climbed new route on Uli Biaho, East Face center.7 days ( including 3 days bad weather)

August, 12 2013 President of Czech Mountaineering Federation dies in an accident on Gasherbrum I.

Press Release Alpine Club of Pakistan

August, 1 2013 Trango. Ircutsk climbers Eugeny Bashkirtsev and Denis Veretenin climbed Nameless Tower. Slovenian route, in 1,5 days + the descent.

 29 July, 2013 Denis Urubko is 40 today! The jubilee interwiev (on Russian)

 

 

 

 

 

28 July, 2013 2. Marty Schmidt and his son, Denali, have been killed by an avalanche at Camp 3. have found their tent, damaged by the avalanche. THey reached it Jult, 26. No contacts from next morning. The Sherpas have found their tent, damaged by the avalanche.. Marty was Schmidt, 53, and Denali, 25

28 July, 2013 2. All teams decided to abort the attempts because of bad snow conditions on the route. Only Marty Schmidt and his son Denali stay on K2.

28 July, 2013 Gasherbrum I. The week ago Spanish climbers Xevi Gomez, Alvaro Paredes and Abel Alonso reached the top. But no contacts then from July, 22. All attempts to search missing climbers were failed. Guys were officially announced died. Our sinsere condolences...

21 July, 2013 Peak Pogrebetskogo. Kazakhs Gennady Durov and Murat Otepbaev climbed the new route. Detales later.

16 July, 2013 Nanga Parbat. Romanians summited!!! Four climbers - Marius Gane, Teo Vlad, Zsolt Torok and Aurel Salasan - Jult, 18 set camp at 7500 . Marius started from the camp on 1 a.m. (and reached the summit first), others summited on 4 a.m.

 

16 July, 2013 Nanga Parbat. Romanians climbed up to C5 (7300 m) today. There are three of team members. Tomorrow they're going to set next high-altitude camp, and July, 18 to reach the top from there.

15 July, 2013 Khan Tengri direct. SErguey Seliverstov (Bishkek) and SErge Hardi (France) are going to climb direct on KHan's South Face. Previous attempt was in 1982 by the team from Leningrad (Gennady Isachenko (leader), Yuri Razumov, Boris Silin, Andrew Laletin, Nick Shustrov, Victor Kozlovsky and Yuri Stroganov). At 6500 they were forced to traverse to the Marble ridge. On black-white picture - the route 1982 . On colour picture - the line which duo hopes to climb.

-.    -.

11 July, 2013 Gasherbrum I. Marcin Kaczkan confirmed Artur's death. Artur fell while descending Japanese Couloir and died. Our sincere condolences to the family and friends...

9 July, 2013 Gasherbrum I. Artur Hajzer missed. Marcin is rescued and on the way down to camp 1. Tomorrow he probably will reach basecamp.

"On Sunday, July 7 Artur Hajzer and Marcin Kaczkan left the camp III (7150 m) to reach the summit of Gasherbrum I (8068 m). Upon reaching the height of 7600 m, they turned back due to strong wind broke off the summit. Reached the camp III (7150 m) and using radio connected with the BC, the expedition
cook, indicating that they will descend to Camp II (6400m) and everything is fine."

"Also on Sunday at 11AM Polish time (1400hrs local time) Isabella Hajzer received a text message from her husband in which he wrote:" Marcin Kaczkan fallen Japanese couloir." We have not managed to make contact with Artur Hajzer, since then. We started rescue operation, managed by the German Gasherbrum Expedition leader Thomas Laemmle. During the night of Sunday to Monday, he sent a team of high-altitude porters, whose aim was to reach Camp II (6400 m). Due to strong winds and snow, they only managed to reach the camp I and turned back to the BC. During the night of Monday to Tuesday weather improved. From Camp I (6000 m) left the group of Russian climbers who reached the camp in the morning and found Marcin there " (www.Explorersweb.com)

8 July, 2013 Broad peak. July, 4 Josef Inhoger reached the summit. It was the first summit in Karakorum in this season. Other six climbers were forced to turn bach from the foresummit due to the deep snow and no fixed ropes.

Jacek Berbeka, the brother of Maciej Berbeka, who missed March, 5 during the descent from the summit, had organized the expedition for search the bodies of Maciej and Tomasz Kowalski. 3 days ago German climbers had found the body of one of Polish climbers at 7900 m. It's unclear yet, was it Maciej or Tomasz. opes to reach that point in the nearest days.

Nanga Parbat. Strong wind didn't allow the team to go for summit. They have descended to lower camp, now and will wait for another summit weather window.

5 July, 2013 Nanga Parbat. Romanian team yesterday set C4 at 7200 m. Tonight they are planning the summit bid.

2 July, 2013 In those 2 weeks, when I was out of info sourses (Internet and others) the awful tragedy happened in Nanga Parbat BC (Diamir Face) June, 22. Taliban gunmen murdered ten foreign mountaineers and a Pakistani cook. The victims included three Ukrainians, three Chinese, two Slovaks, a Nepali, a Pakistani, and a Lithuanian. Only two - Pakistani Sher Khan and Chineese Zhang Jingchuan stayed alive in BC, and called for help. Pakistan Army helicopters landed in BC next morning. Other climbers, who were in higher camps on mountain, descended to BC and were evacuated to the army base, then to Islamabad.

The list of victims:

Ukrainians Igor Svergun, Kashaev Badawi, Konyaev Dmitry, Chineses Rao Jianfeng, Yang Chunfeng, Honglu Chen, Lithuanian, Ernestas Marksaitis, Nepali Sona Sherpa, Pakistani Ali Hussain, Slovaks Anton Dobes Peter Sperka... My deepest condolences...

18 June, 2013 Nanga Parbat, International expedition. Attempted to reach C2, but were forced to turn back because of heavy snowfalls. Romanians on Rupal Face set C1 June, 14.

12 June, 2013 Nanga Parbat, International expedition. June, 9 the team arrived to BC. Next day the group ascended to set C1.

7 June, 2013 Nanga Parbat. Pakistani climbers Karim Hayyat, Naseer Uddin Sher Khan set C1 on Kinshofer route.

6 June, 2013 Nanga Parbat, Ukrainian expedition. Kinshofer route. Today started. Members: Igor Svergun (leader), Alexander Zakolodny, Dmitry Konjaev, Mikhail Kolotushkin, Danil Yasjuk, Badavi Kashaev, Bidzina Gudzhabidze (Georgia), Afi Gigani (Georgia), Anton Dobes (Slovakia), Peter Shperka (Slovakia).

5 June, 2013 Nanga Parbat, International expedition. Flew to Islamabad June, 3. Kinshofer route. Members: Ola (Aleksandra) Dzik (POL, leader), Nina Adjanin (SER), Ismail Asgarov (AZ), Israfil AShurly (AZ), Saulius Damulevichius (LTH), Gabriel Filippi (CAN), Igor Karabin (UKR), Gennady Kirievsky (RUS), Gleb Sokolov (RUS), Alexey Kosjakov (RUS), Alexander Lutokhin (RUS), Andrew Manuilov (RUS), Ernestas Marksaitis (LTH), Oleg Obrizan (RUS), Dmitry Sinev (RUS), Yacek Teler (POL), Ivan Tomov (BOL-RUS), Mikhail Veshagin (RUS), Natalia Zenina (LTV).

28 May, 2013 Denis Urubko wrote the detailes of Alex Bolotov's death

18 May, 2013 Lhotse. Trio from S. PetersburgThe team descended to BC.

16 May, 2013 Everest. Alexey's body has been airlifted to Kathmandu already. Denis(8 p.m.): three of us - me, Damien Binigas and Lakpa Sherpa - flew to the bottom of the wall, packed the body, carried it to the convenient point (100 m), where the pilot Maurizio Folini took the body and then us too.

16 May, 2013 Lhotse. Victor Koval and Sergey Kondrashkin summited Lhotse today, about 1 p.m. Descended to 7800.

Alexey Bolotov15 May, 2013 Everest. Can't, can't, can't believe... Good bye, Alex...

Today Morning Alexey Bolotov died on Everest at 5600.

14 May, 2013 Everest SW Face in alpine style. Denis and Alex will start tomorrow to new route. They're planning 8 days ascent and 2 days descent.

 

 

 

 

 

14 May, 2013 Kyajo Ri: Marina Kopteva and Vladimir Belousov climbed new route on East ridge.

13 May, 2013 Lhotse. Trio from S. Petersburg The team returned to BC after the rest in valley. Today they began the summit bid: ascended to C2. It snowing.

9 May, 2013 Everest SW Face in alpine style. Denis and Alex are in the valley, Deboche village. The final rest before the new route.

9 May, 2013 Russian climber Sergey Ponomarev (from 7 summits team Alexander Abramov) died from the heart attack May, 5 on the trek 100 m above ABC on Everest North route.

8 May, 2013 Lhotse. Trio from S. Petersburg Guys reached 7850 m, made a deposit with the tent, and then descended to BC.

7 May, 2013 Denis Urubko and Alex Bolotov acclimatized at 8000 m two nights and returned to BC.

4 May, 2013 Denis Urubko "Khumbu Wars"

1 May, 2013 Everest SW Face in alpine style. Denis returned to BC after recovering in Deboche. Duo going to acclimatize more at 7000 m before the alpine style climb

29 April, 2013 Lhotse. Trio from S. Petersburg The team set C3 at 7150 m

25 April, 2013 Everest SW Face in alpine style. Yesterday the duo reached 7400 and set C3 on normal route for other climbers. Then descended to BC. Today they're going to the valley, Deboche village, for some days rest in green zone, - before the start to the main goal - newroute in alpine style on Everest SW Face.

23 April, 2013 Lhotse. Trio from S. Petersburg The team set C2 at 6500 m. Descended to BC for the rest

19 April, 2013 Lhotse. Trio from S. Petersburg The team reached BC

18 April, 2013 Everest SW Face in alpine style. Alex: Weve managed to view our route closelya very good one. Is it scary? Yes, it is! We should make it as quick as possible. But the goal for today is to complete our acclimatization.

17 April, 2013 Everest SW Face in alpine style. Yesterday Urubko and Bolotov ascended to 7000 m on Lhotse slope

13 April, 2013 Everest SW Face in alpine style.Denis and Alex are in Everest BC

9 April, 2013 Lhotse. Trio from S. Petersburg heading Lhotse normal route. Team: Victor Koval, Serguey Kondrashkin and Alexey Borodenkov

8 April, 2013 Everest SW Face in alpine style. "Were in a valley, after 7000 m.

8 April, 2013 Andrey Verkhovod: Denis Urubko and Alexei Bolotov: The Everest new route Game Plan

6 April, 2013 Everest SW Face in alpine style."Weve made through the second and the third icefall and stopped at 6700 m. ..."

6 April, 2013 Controversially, the Jury of the 2013 Piolets d'Or has awarded all six nominated ascents a Piolet D'Or

5 April, 2013 Piolet D'Or 2013. Yesterday the 5th Piolets dOr Lifetime Achievement awarded to Kurt Diemberger. (Photo(c) Anna Piunova)

Kurt Diemberger

4 April, 2013 Everest SW Face in alpine style. Glacier, 6000 m. We're spending this night near Ghiachunkang, with Everest in the distance.

3 April, 2013 Everest SW Face in alpine style. Denis and Alex arrived to Dragnak

3 April, 2013 Elbrus: on the slope at 4900 m near Pastukhov rocks rescuers found bodies of climbers, who were missing in the beginning of March: Pole Pavel Gostinski and Iraninan Ali-Atabi Sirelli. Now they're transporting to the valley.

2 April, 2013 English winter attempt of Russian route on Eiger North Face

1 April, 2013 First complete traverse of the Torres del Paine

1 April, 2013 Everest SW Face in alpine style. Denis and Alex had two nights at 5800 m, now they're going to Gokyo

25 March, 2013 Everest SW Face in alpine style. Denis and Alex are in Namche, talk about their next days plans

Denis Urubko & Alex Bolotov24 March, 2013 Everest SW Face in alpine style. Denis and Alex are taking a plane from Kathmandu to Lukla today.

22 March, 2013 The last surviving Everest 1st ascent team member George Lowe has passed away in England aged 89yr

21 March, 2013 Snow Leopards: Vladimir Yakovlev and Georgy Redetsiy, who had completed the program years ago, had just registered their achievements in Shataev's list (#601, 602).

20 March, 2013 Gleb Sokolov didn't find enough money for his Everest project (new line on Kanchung Face in alpine style), so postponed it to next year

20 March, 2013 Juerg Marmet (b 1927, 2nd ascent of Everest on 23rd May 1956) died...

20 March, 2013 Everest SW Face, new route in alpine style. Today Denis Urubko and Alexey Bolotov start from Moscow

 

12 March, 2013 XXI Piolet D'Or nominees.

8 March, 2013 Simone Moro about the drama on Broad Peak and winter mountaineering in the Himalaya

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Snow Leopards

Women -Snow Leopards.

Shataev's list - athlets, who registered and got the sign "The conquer of all USSR' 7000ers".

Winter 2013: Broad peak winter climb / Nanga Parbat winter attempt / Chhurim Sherpa Guinness Record / Denis Urubko

Fall 2012: VII International Elbrus Race. Results and photogallery from the summit and award ceremony. / Annapurna avlanche

Summer 2012: BASK company jubilee - 20! / Andy Houseman and Nick Bullock climb Slovak Direct on Denali / Karl Unterkircher Award won by women Great Trango Tower expedition / Denis Urubko welcomed the athletes of VII International Elbrus Race /

Spring 2012: Gasherbrum I Winter expedition / Simone Moro found the body of Russian climber Alexey Gorbatenkov on TengKampoche Face.

Winter 2012: K2 Winter Russian expedition. / Nanga Parbat winter expedition. /

Fall 2011: K2 Winter Russian expedition. /The women Piolet D'Or team interview: Marina Kopteva, Galina Chibitok and Anna Yasinskaya. 38 days in the Parallel World.

Gennady Durov about p. Pobeda climb (August, 2011): "I tried not to look up only in front of me..."

Summer 2011: Denis Urubko about the new route on Pobeda peak /K2 from the China: International team /Latok III. / Nanga Parbat. Kyrgyz-Russian team / Elbrus lady-champions became the Ternua Female Team - Gasherbrums 2011.

Spring 2011: Greenland. The dream of virgin walls. Alexander Ruchkin and Mikhail Mikhailov / Kangchenjunga. Russian expedition /

Tulagi, Bielorussian Himalaya Expedition. / Alexander Ruchkin: "Search bold, and you will find many magical peaks ...."

Winter 2011: Gasherbrum II Winter expedition.

November 2010: International Mountain Summit (IMS),

September 2010: VI International Elbrus Race. The top results 2005-2010.

VI International Elbrus Race. The results on Extreme and Classic routes./ New hut on the col between Elbrus tops

August 2010: Elbrus Race - the gate to the real altitude VI International Elbrus Race: Girls will run for the first time in "Extreme" class!

Artur Hajzer interview: I want to build the team for Himalaya Winter climbs. / Interview with Israfil Ashurly.

June - July 2010: Karakorum, Amin Brakk, Women expedition. / Sivera supports VI International ELBRUS RACE.

April - May 2010: Lhotse, Russian expedition.

1-st Everest Sherpa wall climbing competition. / Annapurna 2010 / New Route on Matterhorn. Father-and-son

March 2010: Lhotse, Russian expedition. / Makalu, Ukraine expedition. SW Face new route attepmt.

January 2010: Kwangde Lho, David Falt and Vassily Pivtsov. New route isn't real, they'll try Russian route.

Cerro Torre. Italian Fabio Giacomelli died in an avalanche January 1 at the base of Cerro Torre.

October - December 2009: 8 nominees for Piolet D'Or Russia 2009. The ceremony will be Dec, 5 in Moscow ??????? ???????, ??????, 2009. ?????????? ????? ??????? ??????????

"The fourth girl" - Russians climbed new route on Siguniang, 6250 m, / Gleb Sokolov: New route to Pobeda.

Film about K2 West Face expedition (2007) awarded by Gold Alpine Camera om mountain film festival in Graz.
????? "??????? ????? ?2" ??????? ???? "??????? ?????? 2009" ?? ????????????? ????????????? ? ?????

Denis Urubko and Boris Dedeshko awarded Piolet D'Or Asia 2009 for their climb (Cho Oyu, SE Face) in alpine style! ????? ?????? ? ????? ??????? ???????? ??????? ??????? ???? ?? ??????????? ?? ?? ???

Kazakh skyrunner Andrew Puchinin set Kilimandjaro speed climb record: 5 hrs 24 min 40 sec.
?????? ??????? (??????) ????????? ?????? ?? ????????????

Jasemba South Face first climb in Alpine Style

September 2009:
Elbrus Race top results 2005-2009. Statistics by Rodrigo Granzotto Peron
V International ELBRUS RACE results. New record on Classic route.
Ukrainian young lady Maria Khitrikova, Italian Colli TibaldiLuca, Czech Marhan Milan, Russian Roman Gubanov and others will try to win V International ELBRUS RACE...
"Balyberdin" Elbrus races (1989-90). The story by American climber Kevin Cooney about the competition in 1990
"Balyberdin" Elbrus races (1989-90). The story how the idea of mountain speed ascent contest had occurred in USSR.
XXIII Rock Master

June - July 2009: Austrian speedclimber Christian Stangl back to K2 this year - for the speed climb record on Abruzzi route.
The 8th Rock Junior will take place at Arco (Garda Trentino, Italy) on Saturday 6 and Sunday 7 June 2009.

April- May 2009: E-Gongga, 6618 ?. /Cho Oyu (8203 m), South-East Face. First climb in alpine style. Denis Urubko and Boris Dedeshko.

March 2009: Winter Himalaya climb. Denis Urubko interview about Makalu 2009 expedition.

Januar y 2009: Winter Makalu expedition. Ueli Steck climbed Matterhorh in 2 hrs 56 min

December 2008: Eugeny Beletsky - the Russian mountaineering legend (1908 - 1979)
Denis Urubko. Makalu rules. (Before the start Makalu winter expedition with Simone Moro) /????? ??????. ??????? ??????

September 2008: IV International Elbrus Race. Press release. International Elbrus Race 2008

July 2008: Denis Urubko. Annapurna days.

May 2008:
Annapurna. Serguey Bogomolov Makalu (Urubko team) Annapurna. International Expedition. INCREDIBLE RESCUE
?????????, ?????? ?????????, ??????? ???????. ?????? ?????? ????. ??????, ??????? ??????????

March - April 2008:
Annapurna. Serguey Bogomolov Makalu (Urubko team)

January - February 2008:
Patagonia. Rolando Garibotti and Colin Haley did the first ever traverse of Torre
Kazakh Makalu Winter attempt ?????? ??????????? ?? ??????: ??????? ??????? ?????????? Caucasus Women's cup Broad peak: Simone Moro's attempt. ????? ???: ?????? ??????? ?????? ????

November - December 2007:
Tomas Humar: New Alpine Solo Route on the South Face of Annapurna. ???? ?????? ?????? ?? ?????????
First Russian Piolet D'Or for 2007 best Russian climb ??????? ??????? ?????? 2007 ???????? ??????? ?? ??????????? ???????? ????? ?2

September - October 2007: Denis Urubko - Serguey Samoilov: K2 new route from the North. International Elbrus Race 2007.

August 2007:
K2 NW ridge Kazakhstan expedition.K2 West Face expedition.
Denis Urubko - Serguey Samoilov: K2 new route from the North.

July 2007:
K2 NW ridge Kazakhstan expedition./ ?????????? ??????? ?????????? ?? ?2 ? ??????
Broad peak. The team of "Romantic Chiefs"
Krasnoyarsk Broad Peak - Trango expedition
K2 West Face expedition. ?????????? ??????? ??????? ?????? ?? ?2 ?? ???????? ?????
Denis Urubko - Serguey Samoilov: K2 new route from the North./ ?????????? ?????? ?????? ? ?????? ????????? ?? ?2 (??????? ??????????? ?? ????????? ?????)
http://www.russianclimb.com/russian/krasnoyarsk_broad.html
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?????????? ?????? ?? ?2 ?? ????????

July 2005: ???????? ???????? ?? ???????? ????? ?2 / Reconnaissance K2 West Face route

2002: Meru Central Peak (6310m), / Valery Babanov won Piolet d'Or 2002 // Khan Tengri Winter climb / KAZAKHSTAN KANGCHENJUNGA EXPEDITION /North Face of Troll Wall / Lhotse- Saint Petersburg - 2002 Expedition /film "Russian 8000-peak" /

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