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March - April 2008 news

29 April, 2008 Manaslu. Maxut Zhumayev: "In 6.15 on the morning I has picked up all my Camp 1 and has left to Camp 2. At 7.00 I has approached Germans tents. I has stopped to have a rest and truncate a bamboo landmark. Bamboo was very hard. In a flash the knife blade has come off and has slashed me on a hip. I felt the sharp pain and something damp downwards on my hip. I had looked at a leg. The cut gaped on the warm trousers. I have sat on a backpack and have compressed a place of a cut by the one hand, other hand have removed the harness and three trousers. The wound bled.

In the Camp 1 I have remained alone. Having turned back, I have seen the last German who just about disappear on icefall. But one person with a gray-haired beard Walter Land (he knows Ervand Iljinsky well) has come and has rendered first aid to me. THANKS Walter!!! I have left my backpack in tent of Germans friends and have begun the descent to Base camp. Each step was given by a pain. In base camp, in the tent I have imposed seams on a wound (by myself). (the blessing my first higher education is veterinary :))) I did not have a surgical tool, but I was helped by friends from the Dutch expedition. Now I hope for a week to recover and see forward the climb! Many thanks to all for the support!!!"

29 April, 2008 Makalu. Denis Urubko: "We have received all our loads. All is in BC. We did the second push, and reached 6700. Tomorrow we'll go to that point and next day - to 7800".

28 April, 2008 Dhaulagiri. After exhausting ascent Martin Minarik reached the summit of Dhaulagiri on April,23 at 20:00 (local time). It was a solo ascent from 7.000 m. It is probably the first ascent of himalaya 8000m-season 2008. Now he is in the BC.

28 April, 2008 Annapurna. Serguey Bogomolov: Apr, 26 the team has set Camp 4 at 6800. Inaki, Horia, Serguey and Emil are descending to BC. The weather is worsening.

24 April, 2008 Makalu. Denis Urubko: The team went up to 6100, spent the night and came back to BC. The expedition loads have not arrived to BC by heli, so the team live without kitchen equipment and food and the most of gear.

24 April, 2008 Annapurna. Serguey Bogomolov: Apr, 21 in evening was a strond snowfall, we had to clean our tents constantly. Apr, 22 Inaki and Horia reached 6800 and descended to BC. Other 7 guys went up to C1. (exept Arcady, who stayed in BC). Apr, 23 was a hot sunny day, and we crossed the ice-fall from C1 to C2. Now we have to set C3.

24 April, 2008 Dhaulagiri West Face. Valery Babanov and Nickolay Totmjanin are thinkig over the current situation. After two days of intensive climbing to an altitude of about 5000 m, Valery and Nikolay had to stop further climbing of new route to the West face of Dhaulagiri. From ValeryТs message: ЂThe weather conditions are extremely unstable; in the afternoon, it rains and snows at 5000 m, and it is very windy, about 90 Ц 100 km/ h, above 7000 m. In order for two people to climb such a long and challenging route in alpine style, the weather needs to be much more stable. Otherwise, it becomes extremely risky for both of us. (www.babanov.com)

18 April, 2008 Annapurna. Serguey Bogomolov: Russians led by Alexey Bolotov work today above 5900. They have found the way through the icefall due to on, who was here in 2006. Me and Emil descended to BC. Here're Inaki, Horia and Don. We set the mess tent and personal tents to the more dry place. It's snow after the dinner, as usual. There's all our team on the photo.

18 April, 2008 Makalu. Denis Urubko: The team have reached Hillary BC (4900) today by heli. They're going to acclimatize the couple of days and then go up to the ABC at 5800.



18 April, 2008 Dhaulagiri West Face. Valery Babanov and Nickolay Dhaulagiri West Ridge, Babanov, Totmjanin, new route, 2008Totmjanin begin today their climb via new route. They have chosen the West Ridge - the elegant route nobody tried to climb yet, with its steep rock bastions above Italian Base Camp at 3700. The route altitude difference is about 4,5 km. The new route touch the Japanese route (1982) at 7600 m, which leds to the Top. The duo are going to climb the route in 7-8 days and to descent via normal route by NE ridge. They climb in alpine style, without previuos set camps, fixed ropes. (www.babanov.com)

17 April, 2008 Annapurna. Serguey Bogomolov: Inaki, Horia and Don have set the tent and descended to BC. Me and Emil Mamedov have done the deposit and are staying in Camp 1. The others are at 5900. All are OK.

14 April, 2008 Annapurna. Serguey Bogomolov: we have set Camp 1. Tomorrow we'll have puja, and then we'll start up to acclimatize and set Camp 2. All are OK.

11 April, 2008 Makalu. Denis Urubko: All of us are OK. Miss Hawley laughs at our superinternational team - there are one Portugese, one Mexican, one Belgian, Australian and four of in one permit. She says that never there're so many climbers on Makalu in the season - about 50 foreign climbers and a lot of Nepalese climbers will be there".

9 April, 2008 Makalu. Denis Urubko's team will fly today evening from Almaty to Nepal. Their first goak - Makalu, normal route (the same guys tried this winter). Expedition members are Denis, Svetlana Sharipova (climbed Dhaulagiri in 2007), Eugeny Shutov (climbed Dhaulagiri in 2007 and was a member of Makalu winter attempt in 2008) and Boris Dedeshko (has just managed the highest grade technical climb in Kyrgyzstan with Denis - March, 27- 28, Korona 5th bastion, 6 Russian grade).

7 April, 2008 Dhaulagiri. Two Polish ladies - Kinga Baranovska and Katarzyna Sklodowska are going to Dhaulagiri this spring. Kinga has lredy climbed Cho Oyu (2003), Broad peak (2006) and Nanga Parbat (2007), Kasia climbed KHan Tengri, Shivlimg and attempted Dhaulagiri II in 2007. (mounteverest.net)

5 April, 2008 Dhaulagiri West Face. Valery Babanov and Nickolay Totmjanin and Czeh Martin Minarik March 31 have spent night at 6000 m a the col, next day they came back to Base Camp (4700 m). April, 2 they came back to the Base Camp (3700 m). Next push is planning or April, 7.

28 March, 2008 Dhaulagiri West Face. Valery Babanov and Nickolay Totmjanin have met Martin Minaric in BC two days ago, and today they are going to the col together.

26 March, 2008 Dhaulagiri West Face. Valery Babanov and Nickolay Totmjanin have reached BC March, 22. Now they rest in BC after the first acclimatization push till 5000 m.

17 March, 2008 The winter climb of peak 4810 (Pamir) has peak 4810been acomplished by Saint Petersburg team, they reached the top March, 14. Members are: Nagaev Rustem, Krasnov Dmitry, Polenov Dmitry, Shamalo Valery and the only girl in the team Chibitok Galina. On the photo - route line


12 March, 2008 Dhaulagiri. New route on the West Face is planning by Valery Babanov and Nickolay Totmjanin. They'll start tomorrow to KTM. Kazakhs team led by Kazbek Valiev climbed new route on Dhaula West Face in 1991, they summited May, 10 (Valery Khrishaty, Yuri Moiseev, Vladinir Suviga, Anatoly Boukreev, Zaurbek Mizambekov, Vladimir Prisjazhny, Artur Shegai, Alexander Savin, Rinat Khaibullin and Andrew Tselishev, all without oxygen. This year the duo Babanov- Totmjanin will choose the other line.

9 March, 2008 Broad peak. The expedition is over... .

5 March, 2008 Cerro Torre, Patagonia. Yesterday at 1 p.m. Alexander Ruchkin, Valery Rozov, Denis Provalov, Oleg Khvostenko and Alexander Lastochkin reached the summit via "Compressor" route. Valery Rozov has repeated the base jump today at 12 a.m. from the same site as Feb, 26