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January - March 2009 news

27 March, 2009 Lhotse-Everest traverse. Kazakhstan team will fly from Almaty to Nepal tomorrow. Only the most strong climbers will go to  -traverse: Maxut Zhumayev, Vassily Pivtsov, Serguey Samoilv and Eugeny Shutov. Their mates will help them. The coach Ervand Iljinsky said that there're two problematic parts of the route - the descent route from Lhotse and the descent route from Everest via Yjugoslavian/American route, because there're no fresh info about them. By the way, guys may meet Chzeh team, who're going to work on the yjugoslavian/american route too.


25 March, 2009 Makalu West Rige in alpine style. The project of Juan Vallejo, Alberto Innurategi and Miguel Zabalza. Juan Vallejo interview.

23 March, 2009 Chzehs Libor Uher, Petr Masek, Radim Sliva, Petr Valchar and Jan Behun are going to Himalaya double: Everests Hornbein Couloir (on the north side!) and Annapurnas East ridge.


23 March, 2009 Project "Winter K2 climb" Reconnaissance. Victor Kozlov and Nickolay Totmjanin are going by Baltoro glacier now. Their goal - to reach K2 Base Camp and to choose the line for the future (winter 2010) K2 expedition. Today Victor called by sat phone that they're at 4600, with porters. It's winter yet, not spring. Very cold nights. They have to trail break in the waist-deep snow.

Russian National team are preparing to winter K2 expedition. They decided to climb from Pakistan side, instead of Chinese, as they planned before, because Chinese permit's fee is too high. The second reason: there no civil helicopters in China, only army, and the expedition won't be
able to use them in emergency case. The third reason: there no porters in CHina to help to carry loads from the end of camel's trek to the base camp. As you remember, Kazakhs expedition in 2007 met with the same situation, and climbers were obliged to carry all loads to BC by themselves, and spent a lot of energy for it.

Denis Urubko23 March, 2009 Winter Himalaya climb. Denis Urubko interview about Makalu 2009 expedition.




20 March, 2009 Annapurna. Valery Babanov and Victor Afanasiev are Valery Babanov and Victor Afanasievgoing to climb new route via the West Face. They're in Kathmandu now, met with Elizabeth Hawley, and waiting porters. They'll start tomorrow.



20 March, 2009 Boris Korshinov are going to Everest this spring. In Boris KorshunovFebruary he took part in ski maraphones Euro Lopet (10 competiions, 27 January - 20 February). There are very popular maraphones - about 6000-7000 athletes started in every competition. One of start was in Germany Feb, 14-15. Boris (born in 1935) successfuly finished, his result was better than many younger skiers, and he was awarded with a cup "Iron man"

20 March, 2009 Manaslu expedition, led by Alexey Bolotov, will fly from Moscow March, 28. Members are: Eugeny Vinogradsky, Gleb Sokolov, Ilja Rozhkov, Arcady Ryzhenko, Dmitry Frolenko, Alexander Bachurin, Alexander Lutokhin, Dmitry Sinev, Edward Rozhkov, Irina Avdeeva, Olga Bystrova, Dmitry Moskalev, Yuri Soifer, Bidzina Gudzhabidze, Alexander Chesnokov, Yekaterina Plakhova, Mihnea Radulesku, Vladimir Belous and Serguey Duganov. Peter Hamor, Piotr Moravsky are in the same permit, but they're heading the new route on Manaslu West Face.

20 March, 2009 Yesterday Denis Urubko showed slidefilm about Makalu Denis UrubkoWinter climb in Russian Geographic Society (founded in 1845). Tomorrow he together with Simone Moro will do slideshow in Moscow.

2 March, 2009 Svetlana Sharipova (Kazakhstan) and Artjom Skopin (from the same Central Sport Club of Kazakhstan Army) and his Ukrainian client have summited Aconcagua yesterday. Sveta said by phone that she was very tied, but today the team would be in Mendosa. Sveta had already climbed Dhaulagiri (2007) and Makalu (2008), and now she's preparing to Everest climb from Nepal side. Kazakhstan National team will start March, 28 from Almaty to Nepal for the traverse Lhotse-Everest.

14 February, 2009 Winter Makalu expedition. Yesterday Denis and Simone flew to Kathmandu from Hillary BC (4800).

10 February, 2009 Winter Makalu expedition. Guys are safe in the Base Camp. Summit pictures.

9 February, 2009 WINTER MAKALU SUMMIT!!! Denis Urubko (SMS 2-00 p.m. Moscow time): "We're on the summit at 2-00 p.m. local time, then descended to the tent at 7700 m. Now we have to stay alive after this night and to descend". We CONGRATULATE DENIS AND SIMONE!!!

7 February, 2009 Winter Makalu expedition. Summit push is on!

4 February, 2009 Winter Makalu expedition. "we are thinking to start Friday to camp 2, Saturday to C3 and Sunday... maybe... summit push..."

2 February, 2009 Winter Makalu expedition. The live conference between Makalu BC and TNF on Outdoor ISPO in Germany.

30 January , 2009 Winter Makalu expedition. Simone and Denis are in BC, after the flights at 7350

29 January , 2009 Winter Makalu expedition. The duo climbed to 6900 today morning

28 January , 2009 Winter Makalu expedition. Climbers will start tomorrow to C2, then to Makalu La (7400)

26 January , 2009 Ueli Steck climbed Matterhorh in 2 hrs 56 min Jan, 13

26 January , 2009 Winter Makalu expedition. Simone and Denis rest in BC after 3 days push to 7100.

22 January , 2009 Winter Makalu expedition. Guys are at 6900. "We're drinking tea, listening to Ramstine in the tent at 6900. The wind is dying, so I'm going to dig the hole for the deposit. Tomorrow we'll go down to BC. There is chocolate... I have a strange feeling - as I've never been on Makalu summit..."