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October - December 2005 news

29 December, 2005 Winter attempt to AkSu: the expedition is ower - the team climbed the Wall, but didn't reach the top - the birds have eaten all the food, which climbers left in camp - and climbers were obliged to turn back. Now they're in the base camp.

26 December, 2005 42 athletes (9 women among them) took part in Amangeldy speed ascent, which devoted to the memory of Anatoly Boukreev - he died on Annapurna on Dec., 25, 1997. Men:
Winner: Denis Urubko (1 h 17 min);
2 place Artem Rychkov, 1 h 19 min;
3 place Nickolay Chervonenko 1 h 21 min women:
Winner: Svetlana Sharipova 1 h 53 min;
2 place Violetta Afuksenidi 1 h 57 min;
3 place Ada Dusalieva 2 h 00 min; Congratulations!

12 December, 2005 Winter attempt to AkSu: trio Eugeny Novoseltsev (Yekaterinburg), Andrew Shonin (Magnitogorsk) and Denis Veretenin (Angarsk) start today. Eugeny Dmitrienko (Krasnoyarsk) is planning solo attempt there too.

1 December, 2005 All-Russia Mountaineering Championship Results:

High-altitude class: the winners are Shabalin and Tukhvatullin (Khan-Tengri , the center of North Face, 6B Russian grade). 2 place - Valery Shamalo and Alexey Gorbatenkov (Kosculak, China, North FAce, 5B), 3 place - the team of Krasnoyarsk region, leader Vladimir Arkhipov (Khan Tengri, North ridge, 5B)

tech-altitude class: the winners - Krivosheev, Veretenin, Kustov (Asan, left part of the North-West Face, 6A), 2 place - the team of Krasnoyarsk region, leader - Oleg Khvostenko (peak Yellow Wall, cener of West Face, 5B), 3 place - the team of Central Mountaineering Club, leader - Victor Volodin (Zamim-Karor, North-West Face, 6A)

among veterans the winner is Vassily Pechenin (73) - he summited Lenin peak.

1 December, 2005 Gold of Russian Climbing Festival

18 November, 2005 Political mountaineering: members of Kazakhstan Antarctic expedition Serguey Lavrov, Baglan Zhunusov, Ervand Iljinsky, and Victor Ivanov yesterday climbed virgin peak and named it "Kazakhstan".

16 November, 2005 Kazakhstan Antarctic expedition: Baglan Zhunusov, Ervand Iljinsky, Serguey Lavrov and Victor Ivanov want to climb two virgin peaks near Novolazarevskaya base and name them "Kazakhstan" and "Astana".

1 November, 2005 Valentin Bazhukov: Russian Oxygen LTD, Nepal. In 2006 the company will begin the refilling oxygen bottles in Everest Base Camp.

31 October, 2005 Iljas Tukhvatullin: "The Face" - the story about Khan Tengri North Face climb (Shabalim-Tukhvatullin)

21 October, 2005 Dmitry Moskaljov has completed "7 summits". The last summit was Kosciuszko peak in Australia.

20 October, 2005 Victor Bobok needs to climb only one peak - Vinson in Antarctica - to complete "7 summits". Today he summited Kosciuszko peak in Australia. In the middle of November he're going to Antarctica. (www.bobok.ru)

18 October, 2005 Stas Krylov, Siberian high-altitude climber, is missing on Shisha Pangma - no news from October, 2. His teammate Serguey Rousskih has returned home alone. Stas climbed Everest, Dhaulagiri, Cho Oyu, Lhotse, Pobeda, Khan Tengri...

18 October, 2005 Kazakhstan Antarctic Expedition will start in November 2005. The goal - to climb virgin peaks not far from Lazarevskaya station.

17 October, 2005 Komsomol peak (4376 m) speed climb at Zailiisky Alatau mountains near Almaty , which was October, 15, and where mountaineers, skiers, biatlonists and track and field athletics sportsmen took part. Winners: Maxim Odnodvortsev (skier) and Vitaly Lilichenko (skier) among men, Anna Lebedeva (biatlon) among women.

7 October, 2005 Dhaulagiri, Angarsk expedition: Eugeny Vinogradsky and Alexey Bolotov, Serguey Petrov, OLeg Naumov and Serguey Kirillov summited Dhaulagiri Oct., 6 at 3 p.m. Congratulations!

7 October, 2005 Shisha Pangma: The third day there're no news from the member of Tomsk Expedition (Siberia) Stas Krylov. Serguey Rousskih waited him at 7200 two days, but Stas didn't reach that point. And he wasn't in BC and other camps. We'll be very pleased to climbers from other expeditions who can give any information about Stas - may somebody saw him between 7200 and BC.


World's news

29 December, 2005 The first Chinese mountain rescue team will be coordinated by Sichuan Mountaineering Association.
Sichuan provence is becoming the most popular place for Chinese climbers and western climbing community for its plenty formidable unclimbed mountains ranging from 5000 to 7556m. It's also becoming the most deadly mountain region. Just in November, three climbers lost their lives on Tian Hai Zi (6070m)

12 December, 2005 Makalu: Jean-Christophe Lafaille arrived Kathmandu Dec. 8, today he's going to Makalu base camp by heli.

18 November, 2005 Italians Ermanno Salvaterra and Alessandro Beltrami, and Argentinean (US resident) Rolo Garibotti summited Cerro Torre via North Face at 11.30 pm on November 13th - on the exact one year anniversary of Ales and Ermanno's reaching the same summit via a new route on the East face last year..The climb was done in pure apine style, though a new route the team has called The chest of winds. At the upper sections of the wall, the climbers traversed from the North face in order to join the Ragni di Lecco route.

The team had hoped to complete the first repetition of the controversial route opened by Cesare Maestri and Toni Egger in 1959. Retracing Maestris footsteps, the goal was not only to climb the route, but also check if there are pegs or other rests left by the 59 climbers, to prove they actually climbed the wall.

In 2004, Ermanno Salvaterra, and Alessandro Beltrami opened a new route on Cerro Torre. The climb on the East face was named Five years in Paradise. (www.ExWeb)

16 November, 2005 Spaniard Carlos Pauner will attempt Manaslu West face next spring. Manaslu will be celebrating the 50th anniversary of its first ascent the same year

14 October, 2005 Only weeks ago Carlos Soria, 66 (Spain) was told mountaineering was over for him, but October, 3, 2005 he summited Shisha Pangma Central with Camilo Lopez (Colombia). Carlos broke his foot last spring while rock climbing in a preparatory climb for Makalu. Doctors suggested Carlos should forget about climbing for the rest of his life. "Get another hobby," they said. "Carlos is made of rock and ice, just like the mountains he climbs," - Carlos's close friend said. "This is not a hobby for him, but entire life.

12 October, 2005 Shisha Pangma: October, 4 at 1-30 pm Spaniards Juan Vallejo, Ferran Latorre and Jose Carlos Tamayo (Al Filo team) plus Jorge Egocheaga summited Shisha Pangma Main (8027 m) via Britain route (South Face)

Photo: Jorge Egocheaga

16 November, 2005 Spaniard Carlos Pauner will attempt Manaslu West face next spring. Manaslu will be celebrating the 50th anniversary of its first ascent the same year There is only one route starting on the West face, opened by Reinhold Messner in 1972 and that is the traverse line which joins the normal route. Silvio Mondinelli repeated Messners route in 1990. Pauner hopes to open a new line right by the middle of the face via the thin gully, or through the unclimbed ridge at the right side.

Whatever the case, if we summit we will have to rappel down back the face. Traversing is not a suitable option in logistical terms, since both sides are very far away from each other.

Carlos is trying to find a big enough team to attempt the new route. I am really looking forward to climbing a lonely mountain, to feel there is no one there but my team, and to be free to attempt a new route, to figure out what my next move will be. In this sense, Manaslu is the perfect choice!

Manaslu is celebrating the 50th anniversary of its first ascent. Climbing fees have been reduced by 50% for the occasion. However, reaching the summit has proved a tough task no one has made it since 2003.


12 October, 2005 Shisha Pangma: October, 4 at 1-30 pm Spaniards Juan Vallejo, Ferran Latorre and Jose Carlos Tamayo (Al Filo team) plus Egocheaga summited Shisha Pangma Main (8027 m) via Britain route (South- West Face)

The route was first climbed by Doug Scott, Alex MacIntyre and Roger Baxter-Jones in 1982. Juan Vallejo's report: "We started on October, 2nd from BC, stopped at Scott bivouac (6200m) for the night. Next day we climbed to a second bivouac place at 7100m. At 4.30 am on October 4th we headed for the summit. Jorge Egocheaga had joined us, after his climbing mate (Inaki Ochoa) returned home. Summit day took us over delicate terrain, pretty vertical. The summit ridge was sharp and exposed - it took us two hours to get over it. We reached the summit at 1:30 pm, and climbed back down all the way to the bivouac site at 7100m. At dawn the following morning, we rappelled back to Scott's bivouac, where we retrieved out gear and proceeded back to ABC."

THese guys were the first and only team to reach the top of Shisha Pangma main summit (8.027m) so far this fall season.

About climbers: Juan Vallejo has summited Everest, K2, Makalu, Lhotse, Cho Oyu, and Annapurna. Ferran Latorre was awarded the Spanish version of the Golden Piolet for a winter climb to the Croz, Alps, together with Manel de la Matta (who perished on K2's Magic Line last year). Ferran climbed Shisha Pangma SE face to the Central summit, Annapurna, attempted the Everest Hornbein couloir in 1995. Working with 'Al Filo', has filmed climbs all over the world. Jose Carlos Tamayo has summited K2 through the north side, G2 and Nanga Parbat. He opened the NE ridge of Chogolisa with Felix de Pablos, and a new route on Paine's Central Tower with Jon Lazkano and Sebastian de la Cruz.