The winter ascension to Khan Tengri (7010m)*
In February-March, 2002 the combined team of Kazakhstan climbed
peak Khan Tengri (7010m). The highest point of Kazakhstan and the
second high mountain in central Tien Shan. Khan Tengri is most northern
seven thousand peak on the planet. Uniqueness of expedition consists
that this the first ascension of Kazakhstan combined team made in
winter and without helicopter supports The ascension on any of seven
thousand meters peaks in CIS even is high in the summer are quoted
in the international climbing circles. Winter conquest of one of
these tops it is considered an extra class ascension.
Kazakhstan sportsmen has been on highest point of planet m-t Everest
(8848) and only 4 on winter seven thousand peaks. The group began
to prepare for this ascension in the summer 2001. In February 2001
group has left in area Bajankol and has made high-altitude winter
traverse peak Karlytau (5450m) - peak Marble Wall (6400m). Since
January, 28 in the alpcamp Tujuk Su (m-ts Zailijskii Alatau) were
winter gathering which will begin will serve as one more stage of
preparations for this ascension.
organizer and sponsor of this expedition was "ASIA Tourism
an ascension on winter Khan Tengri take part following alpinists:
Nikolay Chervonenko(the head of expedition)
Muravjov Dmitry (the captain of group)
26.02 Departure Almaty - b/c Akkol
Departure b/c Akkol - b/c Jarkulak, transition under "sliyanie"
Transition "sliyanie" - odinadczaty pass
Transition odinadczaty pass - glacier North Inilchek (4050m) - Camp
Ascension Camp 1 (4600m) - Camp 2 (5600m)
Ascension Camp 2 (5600m) - the pass (5800m)
Ascension the pass (5800m) - Summit Khan Tengri (7010m)- Descent
to the pass 5800 m (night in caves)
05,03 pass 5800 m - descent to a glacier South Inilchek (4100m)
Day of rest
descent along the glacier South Inilchek till the place of a meeting
with Support Group (the lower reaches of a glacier South Inilchek)
reserve days on a bad weather etc
term of returning of group 12,03 at 18:00
the way to Camp2
on the way to summit
on South Inilchek glacier
to Camp1 (on the way) on the way to the summit
Chronographic of ascend to Khan Tengri in winter 2002
Group has terminate an ascent on Khan Tengri and finished on the
end of glacier South Inilchek. Today they has met with the support
group and leave for Karakol (small town). The guys lag behind from
plan for one day because of very deep snow. All participants feels
well. Planing arrival to Almaty on 14 marth.
18:30 Group have spent the night in a cave on 5800, and today successfully
were descent to the place of summer base camp Asia Tourism (4000m).
Tomorrow guys will have day of rest and after begin to go along
the South Inilchek glacier until its beginning, it also will be
a final point of winter ascension. All guys feels normal, but some
body has frostbite the face. Yesterday guys were called by Chief
of Central Sport Club of Army Paul Maksimovich Novikov who send
congratulations with a successful ascension. The main thing is done
now ahead 60 kilometer transition on
20:00 Today from 15:00 till 16:00 guys
were at top of Khan Tengri ( we Congratulate:), Till
8 o'clock in the evening all guys have returned to camp 3 into the
cave 5900m (the crosspiece) Sergey Samojlov has returned in cave
just 5 minutes back - he supervised descent of group from summit.
All guys feels well. The rout from the pass 5800 to summit 7010
and back to caves was difficult because of extremely strong wind.
Tomorrow the group will descent on a glacier South Inilchek, where
at them day of rest is planned.
Two days were no communication with a group, last message was about
worsening weather, all this has forced to worry enough slightly.
All fears were dispersed by call of the leader of expedition Chervonenco
Nikolay, who has informed, that at guys is OK, and now they stay
in assault camp 3 (5800m) on the pass, weather is a little bit improved,
and strong frost constantly reminds about a winter ascension. Tomorrow
solving day - day ascension. Let's wish them good luck....
13:30 Today the group started an ascension from camp 1 ( 4600m )
Condition of guys normal, Weather start to spoil.
14:00 Today group came to a summer base camp place of Asia Tourism
only to 13:30 - Very deep and friable snow, today day of rest, and
for the next day an ascension to camp 1 (4600m) Weather is worsened,
a condition of guys excellent.
20:00 The group has passed pass odinadczaty and were descended on
a glacier North Inilchek and have stopped on direct visibility from
summer base camp Asia Tourism. During descents group has dulfer
for 4 x 40 m ropes of abrupt ice. All participants feels excellent,
weather is clear, slightly freezingly. Wait for news.
The group has left from "sliyanie" and for day has risen up to 4200m
and has spend the night on a crest before odinadczaty pass. Mood
of guys fighting, weather was improved, a condition of snow is normal.
Yesterday group has successfully reached in b/c Akkol, the road
was a little bit snow-covered but GAS 66 (the 4WD bus) has passed,
and today group successfully reached up to intermediate camp Zharkulak
(~40km from b/c Akkol) also walk till sliyanie. Weather is cloudy,
and snowfall may be probable
Guys have left today in the morning at 10o'clock. Half of climbing
brotherhood of Almaty has gathered to carry out the group.
At present time participants of command have experience in the active
of winter high-altitude ascensions on such tops as: peak Manaslu
(8163m), peak Communism(7495m), peak Marble Wall (6400), traverse
Karlytau - Marble Wall.
*Khan Tengri is considered as 6995 in Russia