The winter ascension to Khan Tengri (7010m)*

In February-March, 2002 the combined team of Kazakhstan climbed peak Khan Tengri (7010m). The highest point of Kazakhstan and the second high mountain in central Tien Shan. Khan Tengri is most northern seven thousand peak on the planet. Uniqueness of expedition consists that this the first ascension of Kazakhstan combined team made in winter and without helicopter supports The ascension on any of seven thousand meters peaks in CIS even is high in the summer are quoted in the international climbing circles. Winter conquest of one of these tops it is considered an extra class ascension.

17 Kazakhstan sportsmen has been on highest point of planet m-t Everest (8848) and only 4 on winter seven thousand peaks. The group began to prepare for this ascension in the summer 2001. In February 2001 group has left in area Bajankol and has made high-altitude winter traverse peak Karlytau (5450m) - peak Marble Wall (6400m). Since January, 28 in the alpcamp Tujuk Su (m-ts Zailijskii Alatau) were winter gathering which will begin will serve as one more stage of preparations for this ascension.

General organizer and sponsor of this expedition was "ASIA Tourism LTD"

In an ascension on winter Khan Tengri take part following alpinists:
  • Nikolay Chervonenko(the head of expedition)
  • Muravjov Dmitry (the captain of group)
  • Barbashinov Kirill
  • Samojlov Sergey
  • Shchukin Oleg
  • Krynin Alexander


26.02 Departure Almaty - b/c Akkol

27,02 Departure b/c Akkol - b/c Jarkulak, transition under "sliyanie"

28,02 Transition "sliyanie" - odinadczaty pass

01,03 Transition odinadczaty pass - glacier North Inilchek (4050m) - Camp 1 (4600m)

02,03 Ascension Camp 1 (4600m) - Camp 2 (5600m)

03,03 Ascension Camp 2 (5600m) - the pass (5800m)

04,03 Ascension the pass (5800m) - Summit Khan Tengri (7010m)- Descent to the pass 5800 m (night in caves)

05,03 pass 5800 m - descent to a glacier South Inilchek (4100m)

06,03 Day of rest

07,03-09,03 descent along the glacier South Inilchek till the place of a meeting with Support Group (the lower reaches of a glacier South Inilchek)

09,03-11,03 reserve days on a bad weather etc

Control term of returning of group 12,03 at 18:00


on the way to Camp2          on the way to summit        on South Inilchek glacier

start to Camp1 (on the way)        on the way to the summit



Chronographic of ascend to Khan Tengri in winter 2002

______________________________________________________________________ 12.03.02
Group has terminate an ascent on Khan Tengri and finished on the end of glacier South Inilchek. Today they has met with the support group and leave for Karakol (small town). The guys lag behind from plan for one day because of very deep snow. All participants feels well. Planing arrival to Almaty on 14 marth.

________________________________________________________________________ 07,03,02
18:30 Group have spent the night in a cave on 5800, and today successfully were descent to the place of summer base camp Asia Tourism (4000m). Tomorrow guys will have day of rest and after begin to go along the South Inilchek glacier until its beginning, it also will be a final point of winter ascension. All guys feels normal, but some body has frostbite the face. Yesterday guys were called by Chief of Central Sport Club of Army Paul Maksimovich Novikov who send congratulations with a successful ascension. The main thing is done now ahead 60 kilometer transition
on glacier.

________________________________________________________________________ 06,02,03

20:00 Today from 15:00 till 16:00 guys were at top of Khan Tengri ( we Congratulate:), Till 8 o'clock in the evening all guys have returned to camp 3 into the cave 5900m (the crosspiece) Sergey Samojlov has returned in cave just 5 minutes back - he supervised descent of group from summit. All guys feels well. The rout from the pass 5800 to summit 7010 and back to caves was difficult because of extremely strong wind. Tomorrow the group will descent on a glacier South Inilchek, where at them day of rest is planned.

________________________________________________________________________ 05.02.02
Two days were no communication with a group, last message was about worsening weather, all this has forced to worry enough slightly. All fears were dispersed by call of the leader of expedition Chervonenco Nikolay, who has informed, that at guys is OK, and now they stay in assault camp 3 (5800m) on the pass, weather is a little bit improved, and strong frost constantly reminds about a winter ascension. Tomorrow solving day - day ascension. Let's wish them good luck....

________________________________________________________________________ 03.02.02
13:30 Today the group started an ascension from camp 1 ( 4600m ) Condition of guys normal, Weather start to spoil.

_____________________________________________________________ __________ 02.03.02
14:00 Today group came to a summer base camp place of Asia Tourism only to 13:30 - Very deep and friable snow, today day of rest, and for the next day an ascension to camp 1 (4600m) Weather is worsened, a condition of guys excellent.

_____________________________________________________________ __________ 01,03,02
20:00 The group has passed pass odinadczaty and were descended on a glacier North Inilchek and have stopped on direct visibility from summer base camp Asia Tourism. During descents group has dulfer for 4 x 40 m ropes of abrupt ice. All participants feels excellent, weather is clear, slightly freezingly. Wait for news.

_____________________________________________________________ _________ 28,02,02
The group has left from "sliyanie" and for day has risen up to 4200m and has spend the night on a crest before odinadczaty pass. Mood of guys fighting, weather was improved, a condition of snow is normal.

_______________________________________ _______________________________ 27,02,02
Yesterday group has successfully reached in b/c Akkol, the road was a little bit snow-covered but GAS 66 (the 4WD bus) has passed, and today group successfully reached up to intermediate camp Zharkulak (~40km from b/c Akkol) also walk till sliyanie. Weather is cloudy, and snowfall may be probable

______________________________________________________________________ 26,02,02
Guys have left today in the morning at 10o'clock. Half of climbing brotherhood of Almaty has gathered to carry out the group.

________________________________________________________________________ 21,01,02
At present time participants of command have experience in the active of winter high-altitude ascensions on such tops as: peak Manaslu (8163m), peak Communism(7495m), peak Marble Wall (6400), traverse Karlytau - Marble Wall.

*Khan Tengri is considered as 6995 in Russia
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