To climb Mt. Shisha Pangma (8012 m) by the normal route from Tibet.
The expedition was organized by Werner
de Jong, Holland
and Andrey Ershov,
Ershova - Russian team leader
de Jong - Dutch team leader
van de Haar
van den Dungen
van den Dungen
EXPEDITION PROGRAMME (10 April,
- arrival in Kathmandu
04.21.02 - Kathmandu
04.22-27 - Kathmandu - Zangmu (2300 m) -Nyalam (3750 m) -
Shisha Pangma Base Camp (5000 m)
04.28.02 - BC
04.29-30 - BC - Advanced Base Camp (5600 m)
05.01-03 - ABC, rest and acclimatization
05.04-05 - ABC - Camp 1 (6300 m) - ABC
05.06-07 - ABC, rest
05.08-10 - ABC - Camp 2 (6900 m) - ABC
05.11-13 - ABC, rest
05.14-17 - ABC - Camp 3 (7400 m) - ABC
05.18-20 - ABC, rest
05.21-25 - ABC - summit of Shisha Pangma (8012 m) - ABC
05.26-27 - ABC, reserve days
05.28 - ABC - BC - Nyalam
05.29 - Nyalam - Kathmandu
05.30 - Kathmandu
05.31 - departure from Kathmandu
Paul van den Dungen
are OK and expedition is over. Yesterday the last members returned
to Kathmandu. Yuri Soifer, Dmitry
Moskaljov and Victor Bobok summited Shisha Pangma 26 May in 12-30!
8 Russiam members summited Shisha Pfngma. We'll stay in KTM couple
of days, and will return to Moscow 01 May
24, Marina Ershova:
morning Sergey Bogomolov and Vladimir Oleynik summited Shisha Pangma.
Bogomolov did the second ascent of Shisha Pangma during one expedition.
Oleynik climbed with oxygen. Now they are in Camp 3 and they will
come down to ABC tomorrow. Moskalev, Soyfer and Bobok are near Camp
2. Tomorrow they plan to reach Camp 3 and then they will try to
summit Shisha Pangma.
23, Marina Ershova:
weather is better today, but for how many days? Today Sergey Bogomolov
and Vladimir Oleynik have reached Camp 3, they are going to do the
ascent tomorrow. If all is OK, they will return to ABC the day after
tomorrow. Three Russians - Moskalev, Soyfer and Bobok - plan to
reach Camp 2 tomorrow. And then they will try to repeat their attempt
to climb Shisha Pangma.
22, Marina Ershova:
all Dutch members came down to ABC. Their Sherpas have brought all
their things, but one tent was left in Camp 2. The Dutch team decided
to cancel their attempts to climb Shisha Pangma, they will have
a rest for two days and with yaks they will go downwards on May
25. We have booked yaks for the Russian members for May 28 because
they want to repeat the attempt of the ascent. Vladimir Oleynik
and Sergey Bogomolov have already left ABC. Viktor Bobok and Dmitry
Moskalev have intention to leave ABC after tomorrow. Today the weather
is a little better.
21, Marina Ershova:
weather is very bad now - strong wind, blizzard and cold. Moskalev,
Soyfer and Bobok spent four days in Camp 3 and now they are going
down to ABC. Vladimir Oleynik came to ABC earlier. The Dutch team
is going down too. I don't know if they will have enough power and
desire for the next attempt. And will the weather allow that?
17, Marina Ershova:
on May 16 the first Russian team reached the summit of Shisha Pangma.
The first were Sergey Bogomolov and Vladimir Belous, who summited
the most remoted top of Shisha Pangma at 10 o'clock. After 2 hours
Marina Ershova and Oleg Nasedkin reached the summit. Congratulations!
hours later they all were at 3rd camp and later - at base camp.
All are feeling themselves good, the weather is good, no wind. Tomorrow
the second russian team is going up, and after tomorrow the Dutch
team is going up to summit.
12, Marina Ershova:
is OK and tomorrow on May 13 Bogomolov, Nasedkin, Belous and me
will go up to install Camp 3 on 7200 m -
7400 m. Maybe, we will try to summit Shisha Pangma. The second Russian
group will go one day later. And the Dutch team plans to leave ABC
one-two days later than the second Russian group. Today the Dutch
team came back from Camp 2. Marc, Paul and Jaco reached Camp 2 and
spent a night there, the two others were not very well and they
were in Camp 1 only.
10, Marina Ershova:
and several next days our Russian team will have a rest in ABC.
On May 8 Bogomolov, Nasedkin, Belous and me reached the place of
Camp 2 on 6900 m and installed our tent there. Yesterday we came
back to ABC. Bobok, Oleynik, Moskalev and Soyfer reached Camp 2
on May 9 and today they have returned to ABC. Vladimir Oleynik decided
to spend the second night in Camp 2 for the better acclimatization.
The Dutch team is in Camp 1 now and they plan to reach Camp 2 tomorrow.
So, all is OK. The other expeditions tried to summit Shisha Pangma
but they could not do that. They says that it is a very strong wind
and very cold there.
07, Andrey Ershov:
Sergey Bogomolov, Oleg Nasedkin, Marina Ershova and Vladimir Belous
have left ABC and plan to install the second high-altitude camp.
Tomorrow they should be on 6900 m - 7000 m, and they will come down
to ABC on May 09. The second Russian group - Bobok, Oleynik, Moskalev
and Soyfer plan to leave for Camp 2 tomorrow. The Dutch team came
down to ABC yesterday and now they will have several rest days.
05, Marina Ershova:
all Russians are in ABC. And Trudy. The Dutch team has gone to Camp
1. They have a problem with one of their Sherpas - today he has
gone to BC and wants to drive to Lhasa. During our approach to ABC
his legs were frostbitten and he can not work. The weather is very
good and a mass bathing was here. Our state and mood is good.
04, Marina Ershova:
Sergey Bogomolov, Oleg Nasedkin, Vladimir Belous and me reached
6300 m and installed our tent on the place of Camp 1. Our
ascent took 5 - 5.5 hours. It looks nice. Two Dutch Sherpas,
who brought a tent and other things for the Dutch climbers,
ascended 7 hours. Today after sleeping in Camp 1 we came down
to ABC and on the way we met our second group - Bobok, Oleynik,
Moskalev and Soyfer who were going to Camp 1. The Dutch group
is going to leave for Camp 1 tomorrow.
weather is fine. The bright sun melted the snow in ABC and
all our tents were in water. We have been forced to dry them
and to install them on the other place.
02, Marina Ershova:
we have transported our climbing tents, gas cartridges and some
other things to Intermediate Camp on 5800 m. It is about 2 - 2.5
hours from ABC. Tomorrow Sergey Bogomolov, Oleg Nasedkin, Vladimir
Belous and me will go to Camp 1 on 6300 m. The other Russians will
go there after tomorrow, the Dutch members plan to start two days
later. The weather is very unstable, a strong wind blows and a lot
of snow is on the slopes of Shisha Pangma. The other expeditions
have pitched Camp 1 and Camp 2 only.
01, Werner de Jong:
had a hard day in going to ABC. We had to fight trough a terrible
snowstorm. Even 4 sherpas went back to BC and actually came the
We found the camp in the storm and had no dinner before sleeping.
The next day we reached ABC. Everybody was
Now we have to take a good rest before starting our climbing programm.
Trudy came in BC and was sick. Paul did vomete after his dinner.
I and the others feel ok. Reaching ABC was a big adventure on his
Tibetan adventures were continued. It was a very strong snowstorm
with a storm wind on April 29. And it was very cold. But we began
our march from BC (5000 m) to ABC (5600 m). Our decision, certainly,
was not very reasonable, but neither we, nor Dutch members wanted
to do an additional payment for yaks. The Chinese liaison officer
offered to wait with our march, but required to pay for the "idle
time" of yaks - 11 US dollars for a yak for each additional
day. We had about 45 yaks and the total amount was high enough.
And according to our programme we decided to go upwards.
weather was awful, practically without any visibility, but our yak
teamsters quickly went upwards - they, maybe, wanted to reach ABC
in one day. And our members began to lose their way in such terrible
blizzard. With great difficulties we stopped our yak caravan and
stayed for a night stop. As a result Werner, Trudy and two other
Dutch members were lost in the blizzard. Also, two our kitchen-boys
and two Dutch Sherpas disappeared somewhere. Sergey Bogomolov, Oleg
Nasedkin and Vladimir Belous went to look for our members and brought
them to the camp. Our kitchen-boys and Sherpas could not find a
way in the blizzard, came down to BC and then came to ABC themselves.
But one Sherpa was frostbitten.
were unable to dine in the intermediate camp - all our things
and food were covered by snow very quickly. And our cook was
not in power to prepare meals for us. So, we used our thermoses
and just had a snack.
May 30 we had a sunny day but with strong wind. It took 3
hours for us to reach ABC from our night stop. There are about
8 expeditions here. We had a short rest after our hard walk
and pitched our camp.
on May 1 we have continued our "camp" works. The weather
is good enough and general state of our expedition members is satisfactory:
our Russian members feel themselves a little better, our Dutch members
- a little worse. I think that our cook feels himself not very well
- he vomited straight in the tent. Moskalev is busy with his satellite
phone and computer - he is trying to adjust e-mail. In general,
all is OK and usual mountaineering workdays have been started.
28, Marina Ershova:
Moskalev has turned on his satellite telephone and this call is
by the satellite phone. On April 25 we continued the acclimatization
near Nyalam and on April 26 six Russian members were transported
to the Chinese Base Camp on 5000 m. This place is named as BC very
conditionally - expeditions don't stop here for a long time. Simply,
the Chinese liaison officer is here and trucks with expedition members
and cargoes arrive here too. This place is just a transfer point
and from here with yaks we will go to ABC(Advanced Base Camp) on
5600 m. And there we will live, continue our acclimatization and
from ABC we will try to climb Shisha Pangma. Chinese BCis located
in a broad valley with a river. You can see Shisha Pangma and surrounding
mountains from here. And Shisha Pangma looks steep enough from here.
about our adventures. On April 26, when we arrived in BC, the
awful storm was begun - with a terrible wind and a very strong
snowfall. Very soon all was covered by snow of 20 cm. It was
very difficult to install a big dining-tent and tents for the
members. It was very cold and disgusting. But our cook prepared
very tasty meals and we were happy
Dutch members that were in Nyalam had a lot of problems on April
26. The storm caught them during the acclimatization walk. And in
the conditions of hurricane and practically zero visibility they
were lost. Two Dutch members were forced to use a GPS receiver for
returning in Nyalam, the rest came later.
on April 27 the Dutch members arrived at BC from Nyalam and Moskalev
with Soyfer - from Lhasa. Now we are all together and we plan to
go to ABC tomorrow. Today we continue our acclimatization near Chinese
24, Marina Ershova:
we got up at 8:00, had breakfast at 9:00 and about 10:00 we went
for a walk for acclimatization. We hiked and climbed local hills
until 15:00 - the Dutch members were on 3800 - 3900 m, Bobok and
Oleynik reached the altitude about 5000 m, Oleg Nasedkin, Vladimir
Belous, Sergey Bogomolov and me summited a small local mountain
about 4100 - 4200 m with a lot of varicoloured small flags
mood and general state are good, the weather is good too - with
the sun and without rain. But the air is cool enough and not
very strong wind is blowing. Probably that tomorrow we will
continue our acclimatization walks and then we will drive to
23, Marina Ershova:
are in Nyalam (3750 m) now and all is OK. Today we have drived out
of Zangmu at 10:00 and along steep valley with several serpentines
reached Nyalam for 2.5 hours. This time we have no Chinese jeeps
and all our members have been carried by bus.
Tibetan "charmings" began - they accommodated us in the
single hotel with a toilet through the road (with the door on a
nail) and gave us hot-water thermoses - drink tea if you want or
take shower if you want. But meals are good enough, probably, better
than in the last expedition.
terrain around us looks as a hilly and stony desert, practically
without verdure. It is warm enough but all our members are in jackets
and warm trousers. Only Bobok and Oleynik all time go in shorts,
but they have arrived in Nepal a week earlier and already are quite
and Dutch members behave wholly sensibly and have no extremism to
start the climb without good acclimatization. I think we will spend
here a couple of days for acclimatization and then will drive to
22, Marina Ershova:
after very early breakfast at 04:00 in the morning we left
Kathmandu and started our trip to the Tibet border. All our
documents were in order and we crossed the Nepal-China border
without any problems. About 12:00 we were on the Chinese territory.
Our hotel is in the small town of Zangmu on the altitude about
2300 m but really nothing to do here and we are waiting for
the drive to Nyalam tomorrow morning.
and Soyfer are in Kathmandu now and they will fly to Lhasa
tomorrow. Our Nepalese cook and two kitchen-boys are travelling
with us. The weather is good enough but sometimes it rains
in the evenings.
21, Marina Ershova:
we arrived in Kathmandu. As usual, affable faces of local people,
dirt and smog met us in the capital of Nepal. We were accommodated
at the Royal Singi Hotel and after that we started our excursions
and shopping. We bought rope for possible fixed roping and several
we have visited the office of Asian Trekking and solved all necessary
questions, checked our equipment and food. A solar panel looks not
very good and Asian Trekking has given us an electrical generator
in addition. It seems that all is ready and tomorrow we will drive
to Tibet. To have no possible problems with traditional spring demonstrations
in Kathmandu we decided to start very early - at 05:00.
Dutch members look as very nice and pleasant people. Two our members,
Moskalev and Soyfer, have plan to visit Lhasa and its monasteries.
They will fly to Lhasa on April 23 and will join us at BC on April
the Swayambhunath (Kathmandu)
expedition is ready and today Marina Ershova, Oleg Nasedkin, Vladimir
Belous, Dmitry Moskalev, Yury Soyfer and Sergey Bogomolov have flown
from Moscow to Kathmandu via Delhi. Viktor Bobok and Vladimir Oleynik
is already in Kathmandu, they have arrived there one week earlier.
Six Dutch members have started their travel today too.