(- 2018)



23 2018

Denis Urubko : The normal tropical winter.


(Translated by Elena Laletina, Russianclimb.com)

And now... Sitting in a warm sleeping bag, I can recall of abstraction at an altitude of 7000 meters. Because a couple of days ago, my thoughts were stirring and disturbing by the cold and wind, however, now... Yes, Pakistani cuisine and Polish comfort help me to stay on a positive way.

The push Feb,17 was late. But I wasn't in a hurry! Only to not to do Wielicki nervous I left the Base Camp BEFORE breakfast.

And around lunch I was already reach the tent at the altitude of 6200. It waited in a place protected from the wind. And soon Adam Bielecki came up there too.

The next day gave us a lot of fun on the fixed ropes. Mostly, it was well done in summer already. We had only to tie a few knots. And House Chimney pleased us with the logic and safety.

The place for the official C2 is open to wind gusts. You can find a compromise with nature there in summer, but in winter it shows a deadly grin. Uneven icy ledges with the scraps of old tents, stakes and struts, and broken oxygen bottles around did not attracted me.

So, I started to dig up the slope a little further, closer to the tiny rocks. Only four meters of difference... but it was necessary.
- Why to dig!? If there is a ready place!? - approaching Adam anxiously asked me.
- I took a walk around all the sites. There's a wind everywhere, and all of them are sloping. It's better to work for an hour.

The night was tight. Adam pressed the tent with his shoulders. It was heavy snow storm outside . I swore that I would never stay in such "crazies' shelter" again. It is better to work longer and harder than spend a night with no avail.

That's what we did the next day. Put on our bagpacks, we cheerfully went to the verge of a Black Pyramid. It turned out, we could trust the ropes! Well... if to add some length where it need, to twist for better safe, and to pray for whom should....


Several tens of meters I climbed with pleasure. Had to splice different old ropes. And in the most unfortunate place, where old ropes were not at all, Fate left the whole Korean rope for us! Adam and I chopped her into three pieces. One had been fixed at once and other two we dragged above. By the end of the day, they were run out already.

It was getting dark. The bulk of Broad peak was glowing red in the sunset rays.The valleys were swamped by a wave of gloom. We looked like two slow insects crawling hard on the bleeding edge.

- Denis, please find a place for the tent! - asked Adam.
- There is a room, but you have to dig, I slaughtered. - Come here!

So, what I'm about...The frostbitten nose do the memories sharper. It was cold. But the next day gave us an unprecedented warm. We also managed to dry in the sun our sleeping bags. And strolled up to the height of 7400.

The further road to the C4 was clear from here.
- Just imagine!, - I said to Adam. - Only five people were at such height on K2 in winter! You, Wielicki, Marcin, Petrek Morawski... well, and I again... could.
-Yes, I did this! - Adam laughed in the mask.

The night was rough. The body hardly accustomed to the altitude. In my delirium I saw the
banana shrub, growing near the tent. I scored bananas how much got into my hands.
- We've decided that don't drink and are immediately going down, ' I told Adam. - And here're some bananas before the way!
- Yeah?! - frantically he tried to get used the reality. - Where's my portion then?

In the wind gusts in the snow blizzard we buried all the camping gear, and made our way through
the hurricane to the BC. On the way to Camp 1 we're really lucky - Marcin Kaczkan was waiting us with two pots of water.

My body is emaciated. There are muscles left for the final summit bid. But they are not warm me. According to popular idiom I'm khudyi Yak Rover - skinny like a bike.