Back to the latest news


August 2005 news

31 August , 2005 Pobeda peak. First full traverse solo. Gleb Sokolov.
Press release from the Alpine Club of Pakistan:

The Alpine Club of Pakistan has taken a serious note of theft incidents which occured on K-2 and Broad Peak recently and has decided to set up an Inquiry Committee under the Chairmanship of renowned Pakistani mountaineer Col Sher Khan to investigate into the allegations, identify the culprits and recommend suitable remedial measures for the avoidance of such like incidents in the future.

It is assured that strict disciplinary action will be taken against the persons found guilty of these thefts. The Ministry of Tourism has been informed accordingly.

Lt Col (Retd) Manzoor Hussain

Executive Vice President

Alpine Club of Pakistan.

25 August , 2005

Ervand Iljinsky is 65 today! The organizer and the head of many expeditions, Cavalier of awards the Sign on Honour, People Friendship, Otan, Honoured Coach of the USSR and Kazakhstan in mountaineering, Honoured Master of sports of the USSR in mountaineering , the Senior Coach of Central Sport Club of Kazakhstan Army.

From the bottom of the heart we congratulate you, Ervand! Happy birthday and wishes of successful realization of all your plans!

24 August , 2005 K2-Kazakhstan Expedition: In ABC guys have found out, that someone has stolen all their equipment, including crampons.

23 August , 2005 K2-Kazakhstan Expedition: the second attempt begins.

18 August , 2005 K2-Kazakhstan Expedition: we'll stay in BC, rest and then decide what to do futher...

17 August , 2005 K2-Kazakhstan Expedition: news has just come through Sportpiac, reported by MOL team leader, Hungarian Lajos Kollar:"Kazakhs and the Polish climbers made it to BC. They are fine and safe, as far as it's possible. They are OK! Kazakhs reached 8400 meters before turning back".

15 August , 2005 K2-Kazakhstan Expedition: the team began to climb up from Camp 4. A lot of stars shine on the sky!

Aug, 14 sms (23:24, local time): We're going up at midnight.
Aug, 14 sms (17:20, local time): We're in Camp 4

Aug, 13 sms (18:17, local time): We're resting in Camp 3. The weather's normal, the wind stays below us.

13 August , 2005 K2-Kazakhstan Expedition: SMS (5-58 a.m. local time): The sun shines somewhere ahead... We're going to Camp 3,

12 August , 2005 K2-Kazakhstan Expedition: SMS (9-33 a.m. local time): We're in Camp 2, set the tent, cooking the dinner. It's warm, but the strong wind. Polish climbers are coming here, tomorrow we'll climb to C3 together.

SMS (2-32 a.m. local time): We're going to Camp 2. The weather's acceptable

11 August , 2005 K2-Kazakhstan Expedition: Early morning the team started to the summit bid. They are now in Camp1 (reached 12-30 local time).

11 August , 2005 The press conference of authors of the new line on Broad peak West Face took place in Almaty August, 9. Pictures.

9 August , 2005 K2-Kazakhstan Expedition: the team's recovering after the very hard acclimatization push and preparing to the summit bid. They decided not to be full oriented to the weather forecasts, but to act as planned. The weather seems to be more stable now. There are few climbers in BC: American guide with the Australian client, Hungary expedition, the rest of Polish expedition. All climb the classic route.

8 August , 2005 K2-Kazakhstan Expedition: the team set Camp 3 at 7500 m, where the place for the tent is very comfortable and safe. Then descended to the Base Camp (August, 7) All are fine.

8 August , 2005 Helicopter crash at South Inylchek (Tien Shan) August, 5: The helicopter with the group of 16 climbers tried to fly up from the South Inylchek, but the unexpected powerful impulse of a wind has pressed it to a moraine. All have got out of the broken windows, and the machine has burnt out completely. The two heli pilots has most strongly injuered, they were already sent by urgent special medical flight to Maida Adyr. Masterful actions of the pilots have allowed all passengers to stay alive.

Not only Russians were onboard, but also foreign climbers, members of three big teams, who are now on Inylchek glacier going for the Khan Tengri and Pobeda climbs. This machine has already made the first successful flight in the morning from Maida Adyr to Inylchek.

8 August , 2005 You can see the real route line of Urubko-Samoilov first ascent at Broad peak West Face.

5 August , 2005 K2-Kazakhstan Expedition: the team is climbing up to Camp 3. "We're sitting in the clouds...Wind. Snow. We're going to C3. Our way is along the rocky ridge. The way to C2 (6350) was easy. The other team reached C1 today and two Japan climbers came to C2. (

4 August , 2005 K2-Kazakhstan Expedition: the team has reached Camp 2 (Maxut's message at 2 p.m. (Moscow time)

SMS 02:36 a.m. local time. Fine weather! The sun shined yesterday and there's no winds. The night was warm. Avalanches felt down from Broad peak slopes. We are at the ridge, so out of danger. Going to climb to the Camp 2.

August 3, 2-27 p.m. local time. We reached Camp 1 (5850 m) Our tent is only one there. The weather's workable.

07:00 a.m. local time: Two and a half hours took us to reach ABC. We went through the dangerous icefall. Hope that in 5 hours work on the snow slope - and we'll come to Camp 1.

1 August , 2005 K2-Kazakhstan Expedition: the team after a lot of problems with getting permit (three members were waitiing in Skardu during 12 days together with Gia Tortladze) set K2 Base Camp and going to begin the work at the route tomorrow.

World's news

10 August , 2005 Nanga Parbat, Rupal Face: Humar has been rescued by Pakistan pilots. Finalmente!

8 August , 2005 Nanga Parbat, Rupal Face: Humar's waiting the helicotter help. Pakistan Army and many other people do their best to help Tomas... Detailes at

6 August , 2005 Nanga Parbat, Rupal Face: Rescue is going... Detailes at

4 August , 2005 Nanga Parbat, Rupal Face: Tomas Humar spent night at the hole at about 6400m. The half of the Rupal Face is climbed. He tryed climb in the morning, but after 2 hours attempt was forced to return to the bivyak place.

3 August , 2005 Nanga Parbat, Rupal Face: Humar reached 5700 yesterday and spent night in the small hole. He is extremely tired, everything is wet, snow is melting so fast little streams of water are running all over the place. He have to continue his ascent at 4 a.m. today.

1 August , 2005 Nanga Parbat: Humar decided to start! He's at the Rupal's bottom already. House and Preselj are under Rupal too. There's challendge!

News archives