New route on Pobeda peak
"The dollar rod" .
The new route - red
Denis Urubko and Gennady Durov (Almaty, Kazakhstan)
Denis, Aug, 20 from Almaty:
"It's too difficult to write by computer :) It's funny. I have to get used the computer
again. Thank you for your congratulations! For a Happy Birthday and with new routes. I just got home today. We climbed Pobeda peak with Gennady. The so-called "Dollar rod":) This route had been attempted since 1982 - after incredible "The Dollar" had been climbed by Vlad Smirnov .
We climbed the new route to Przhevalsky peak before, so it was too hard for me to change my mentality to Pobeda. I had to spend the night on the top of Khan Tengri ... Well, "had" it's tough. I was very pleased, despite the strong wind... And the mistics were there, but I'll write later about it...
We climbed Pobeda according to the plan. Descending from Khan-Tengri, I rested 4 days. Gennnady met me in the South Inylchek Glacier base camp. He had been acclimatized already- after two ascents to Khan and overnight at 6400 ...
We started from the Base August, 10. But next day the strong snowfall covered the slopes by 60-70 cm of snow. We retreated to the edge pedestal in fear ... if the descent was less avalanche, we would have gone down:) Honestly say so. But the next morning there're not a cloud in the sky. Well, we gathered, and started again.
In fact, we climbed 3 days. Gennnady is the animal ... oh! no:) He's a beast.
We climbed often with simultaneous belay, thinking where we can fall -
hough shaking. Well, the God of mercy. And we climbed the rocky bastions
unceremoniously. Kazbek Valiev said today that our climb was "SAVO's school of the insolence and rudeness". (SAVO - the old name of Almaty mountaineering Army Club in USSR, where the very strong climbers did the unique climbs - ed. note)
Aug, 15 we reached the summit at 7-10pm. Bad weather, wind. And when we descended - a miracle happened. Sun fell into the hole between the horizon and clouds. And there was the beauty! I have no words to describe it. I'll send the picture.
Our hands and feet are well. We're OK, but I want to eat and drink all the time. And my feet are weak - no power yet. But anyway, this is happiness! I dreamed about this line since 1993, when saw the "Dollar" line first there, under the leadership of Dima Grekov.
Well, the "stick" also turned out ... more similar to the Euro:) But... no problem.
And, of course well, we were helped and empathized from Almaty. We got 60 kg of cola and sweets and different letters from our friends. It looked like we worked in the team...