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If you want to climb peaks above 7000 meters in winter, you have to do in extremely low temperatures, strong winds, short daylight, lack of outside helpin emergency situations. Only truly brave persons can decide on such climbs.

Lenin peak


Lenin peak (7134 м) is one of the five peaks, which Snow Leopard program consists of. Only 8 teams climbed it in winter:

  • 1988, Jan, 31 Lenin peak via the North Face (Arkin route, 1960, 5A Russian grade in summer, 5B in winter) - Valery Khrishaty, Serguey Arsentjev, Vladimir Balyberdin, Victor Dedyi, Yuri Moiseev, Ivan Tulaev. The temperature was -50C during the climb. Leonid Troshinenko was the expedition leader. Caps at 5500, 6000 и 6500 (the snow caves).
  • 1990 , Feb, 3 the same route - Semion Yastrebov, Alexey Koren, (Leningrad)
  • 1990, Feb, 4 the same route - Leonid Troshinenko, A. Gumenjuk, Alexander Glushkovsky, Alexander Dorofeev, V. Ivanov, A Tsekoev (Leningrad), P. Totov, A Matkпalikov (Uzbekistan)
  • 1990, Feb. the same route - I. Razuvaev, A. Bratsev (Moscow). They used ropes, fixed by the previous team from 6100 m.
  • 1993, Feb, 27 the same route - Mikhail Shtarkov and Mikhail Afanasiev (Moscow). About alpine style, on ski. Shtarkov missed on the descent. Afanasiev spent the night on 6100, without tent, standing. He got some serious frostbites, lost a bunch of fingers later. 5 days waited his mate in BC.
  • 2004, Feb, 1 Lipkin route and Arkin route combination - Denis Urubko (Almaty), Nickolay Chervonenko (Almaty), Alexander Gubaev (Bishkek)
  • 2016, Jan, 22 . Arkin route - Serguey Seliverstov (Bishkek), Mikhail Danichkin (Bishkek), Roman Abildaev (Novosibirsk), Alexey Usatyh (Barnaul)
  • 2016, Jan, 22. Arkin route †- Dmitry Chizhik (Moscow), Sergey Romanenkov (Moscow), Dmitry Ryzhankov (Mogilev), Denis Zhidkov (Brest)