PROJECT "SNOW LEOPARD " IN WINTER.
winter ascension to Lenin peak
- February 2004
is exactly three years ago from the moment when climbers of the
Training Center of Rescuers and Mountain Guides and Central Sport
Club of Army of Kazakhstan Republic decided to renew the old tradition
- "the Snow Leopard". They decided to climb in the winter
all 7000-ers of the former USSR , i.e. to realize the program "
the Snow leopard " - in the winter.
this program the traverse two tops Karlytau (5450 m) - the
Marble Wall (6400 m) has been climbed in the winter of 2000-2001
for the first time. This ascension has been marked by the
third place in the Open mountaineering Championship of CIS , in
high-altitude class. Further in winter of 2001-2002 the
traverse of Khan Tengri (7010 m) was accomplished without helicopter
support. Then the attempt of peak Pobeda (7439 m) has been
undertaken in the winter 2002 - 2003, but it was failed because
of plentiful snowfalls and avalanche danger conditions at the route
- the team has been compelled to stop an ascension.
to the planned program, in the winter
2003 - 2004 it is planned to make an ascension on peak Lenin (7134
m). A planned route of an ascention of "Arkin"
or via Razdelnaja (in dependence on a condition of a snow cover),
in alpine stile.
January, 2004 On January, 27 at 20:10 Denis Urubko called:
"On January 27 the group ascended Puteshestvennikov (Travellers)
pass where they stopped on spending the night. Because of avalanche
danger of the slopes they refused to descend via the planned traverse.
On January 28 they are descending in a direction of falling of water
on a glacier.
N.Chervonenko and G. Tortladze stayed below in connection with suspicion
on cold and will catch up with group on January 28 on the paved
January, 2004 25
January the team brought equipment from the meteorological station
to the "onion field", the temperature was -25C, wind on
the valley, deep snow. Today the rest day. The state of group is
of the Expedition - 21 January 2004
Krynin with his wife.
Khaibullin says good bye to members
19, 2004 Today in Almaty was the press conference of members
of expedition to Lenin. Yesterday they finished their climb to peak
Ordzhonikidze - for acclimatization.
Urubko: Notes about temperature inversion.
Winter remains the winter everywhere. How many time I stumbled about
this simple and beautiful concept. However, I'm surprising till
now, and understand so simple thing too late.
for example, in Norilsk the winter always forces to think about
down jacket, a fur coat, valenoks and to that to similar attributes.
My friend few times sent me photos from thas city, and seen in pictures
fully complied with my representations about Far North. On Sakhalin
Island I remember Mirages of three-meter snowdrifts on roadsides
of streets. And the nature will not allow to make an frost indulgence
in any way . Dank Sakhalin dawn force me to shudder till now at
memoirs on minutes, that I go from a house up to school.
The another matter when you live in a resort southern climate, and
the snow-covered caps of tops are high above the city. And it takes
you not more than two-three hours to the way to a high-mountainous
zone. So sharp discrepancy of climatic zones can cause the full
frustration of your feelings. At times it comes to a tragic end
- tourists who go for a walk in the summer nearby to Almaty, sometimes
die in a snow buran .
Hoping upon favorable weather conditions our team was going forward
on an ascension on peak Ordzhonikidze. In the city there was about
a zero degrees (C). THere was the grey haze hung above streets,
and a fine snowball strewed periodically.
Before forthcoming Pamir expedition members had to revive old customs,
and to acclimatize spending night at altitude - as high as possible.
Peak Ordzhonikidze is the highest top near Almaty - 4410 meters.The
head of our expedition - Nikolay Chervonenko. Some powerful snowfalls
have passed in mountains. Avalanche conditions were dangerous. Something
like that the nature has made a pair of steps, and now waited for
There was seventeen of us. In
camp under Ordzhonikidze pass which we have made after the way in
the darkness in knee-deep snow, the thermometer has shown already
a minus eleven. But I have not paid attention to it though I should.
But Almaty weather still was there in memory, therefore I continued
to perceive winter originally. Under the plan, only eight person
had to climb there for spending night at the top. Other climbers
returned downwards in the same evening.
Next day yesterday's long and tiresome way to the pass has seemed
as kid's babble. In couloir where we climbed to the col, there were
hard snow, and old avalanche cone evidently showed a line of our
assumed way. Making a trench along rocks, we moved ahead so slowly,
that I already started to imagine sad home returning.
The snow sky dropped fine, but densely strewed groats on us. On
the way by ridge I climbed with one idea. It was like a corkscrew
turned in a head, tiresomely distorting logic: " 3A, or 3B?"
*. " 3A, or 3B? ". I thought I would remember, that route
grade was low enough. However it was desirable in these winter conditions
to amuse myself an idea, that not only me is uncomfortable here.
3A and 3B - routes in Russian Grade
Only at 16.45 the first group of climbers has reached the top. The
drifting snow swept, and then was dumped by waves on Northern wall
of mountain - somewhere in a chasm. Mountains around sank in a grey
haze of twilight clouds. This grey cape lasted from nonexistence
somewhere to the space, without a concrete direction. I muffled
up in new jacket from BASK more densely, and was pleased that company
helped me before the winter expedition.
who did not need to spend the night at top, have gone downwards
at once . The blessing, the fixed lines remained on key parts of
the route. And there was enough time before dark to go down on pass.
members of the team who were preparing for Lenin peak climb have
already cleared places for tents in darkness. Did we really took
pleasure from that process? It was strange and funny. However I
began to laugh only in the morning when saw 25 degrees below a zero
on the thermometer. Here's an inversion. It was recollected, how
in winter K2 expedition it became warmer at altitude. There the
western wind brought sad heat from the Pakistan plains. And here
we felt something as Antarctica, or Stratosphere or the moon of
the Jove around us. It would be desirable not to think what is necessary
above, and whether will famous BASK equipment sustain the competition
with a permafrost.
it's necessary to think. In view of forthcoming attempt of Lenin
climb I amuse myself that has somehow managed to accustom my thermophilic
organism to mountain frosts during last month. Here also is the
information on the Internet sites - one another more terribly and
more awfully. Fingers on hands and legs freeze in advance. But we
have acclimatized normally.
The central Sports Club of Army of Kazakhstan,
SALICE, La'sportiva, BASK, Russianclimb.com
Nickolay Chervonenko is the head of expedition. He's the chief of
the Center of Mountain Training of CSKA. Members:
2. Samoilov Arseny
3. Mynzhasarov Danijar
4. Mynzhasarov Kajsar
5. Viltsen Nikolay
6. Raisov Kajrat
7. Urubko Denis
Gubayev Alexander (Kyrgyzstan)
climbers have experience of winter climbs. N.Chervonenko, S.Samojlov,
A.Krynin, K.Barbashinov have summited Khan Tengri in the winter
two years ago, and before have passed travers Karlytau (5300) -
the Marble Wall (6400) too in winter conditions.
The team will go to Alajskuju valley to the bottom of Lenin peak
through the cities of Bishkek and Osh by cars of Rescue Service.
Then they will set the Base camp in Achik-Tashe. The finall decision
about the route will be accepted in Camp 1 (4200). Two most comprehensible
variants - a way through "skovoroda" and Razdelnaja top,
as the most simple for the team, or through Lipkin's rocks and further
on Metla, as the shortest and guaranteeing fast descent in case
of unforeseen circumstances.
Committee of the Ministry of Defence of Kazakhstan Republic
( The head - General Pavel NOVIKOV)
Rescue Service of of Almaty 051
( director - Rinat KHAJBULLIN )
Training center of Rescuers and Mountain Guides
SPONSORS OF EXPEDITION:
agency " Asia Tourism ";
Tujuk Su ".
international Mountaineering camp " Akkol - Khan Tengri ".
of winter climbs to Lenin peak
peak, North Face. ( Jacob Arkin's ("Metla") route, 1960,
5A - 31.01.88. - V.Hrishchaty, S.Arsentev, V.Balyberdin, V.Dedy,
J.Moiseev, I.Tulaev. (5A) the temperature during an ascention
reached -50 degrees C. The head of the expedition - Leonid Troshchinenko
(Leningrad). Camps on 5500, 6000 and 6500 - snow caves.
same route - 3.02.90 - A.Koren, S.Jastrebov (Leningrad)
same route - 4.02.90 - L.Troshchinenko, A.Gumenjuk, A.Glushkovsky,
A.Dorofeev, V.Ivanov, A.Mozhaev, A.Tsekoev (Leningrad), P.Totov,
same route - 02.90. I.Razuvaev, A.Brattsev (Moscow), used fixed
ropes of previous group from Leningrad till 6100.
data from Gennady Starikov, chairman of the classification commission
of Federation of Mountaneering of Russia, and from Valery Hrishchaty's
fifth winter climb to Lenin peak 27.02.93 have made by Shtarkov
I. and Michael Afanasev by the same route. Practically without
using of ropes, in alpine style, the approach on skis. Shtarkov
was gone during the descent. Afanasev has shown miracles of struggle
for a life - he spent night without tent, etc. on 6100 (tent whether
has blown off, whether he could not find it). Then next 5 days
he waited Shtarkov below. He returned to people with hard frostbites,
and in Moscow he had lost some a heap of fingers. In the same
summer he went again went on Lenin with expedition of the Moscow
State University for searches SHtarkov (have not found), and has
seized a pneumonia.
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