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July - August 2006 news

22 August, 2006 Elbrus speed climb - preparation news

17 August, 2006 K2 tragedy. Serguey Bogomolov: " Only the Mount knows whats happened

16 August, 2006 It is with the deep grief that we write names of the members of K2 Kuzbass 2006 Expedition, who had been cought by avalanche and are missing since August, 13: the expedition leader Yuri Uteshev, the coach Alexander Foigt, Piotr Kuznetsov and Arcady Kuvakin.

Serguey Bogomolov called today from the Base Camp: August, 12 the team was in Camp 4. There're no visibility, so they decided to descent to the BC. But the top is so close, and when suddenly the weather improved and sky became clear, they began the summit bid on August, 13. The first party was Kulbachenko - Gaponov. The second that ascended, were Foigt, Kuznetsov, Uteshev and Kuvakin. The last party was Bogomolov - Bannon - Teler. THe avalanche caught the first and the second parties. Kulbachenko and Gaponov had dug out from the snow and tried to find others. The third party joined them. There're steep slopes below that place, and avalanche fell there. Serguey Bogomolov didn't see how the avalanche struck. Climbers couldn't find their partners. In addition, there was a danger of next avalanche, so they decided to descend. Tomorrow the expedition will leave the BC.

15 August, 2006 K2: Nine climbers were on the route. Five climbers (Irish climber Banjo Bannon, The Polish Jacek Teler and Serguey Bogomolov among them) descended to BC. Serguey called to his wife by Banjo's phone - his own phone was lost in avalanche, he only said he's safe and sound. No detailes because of very bad connection. ATP will send a helicopter after the weather gets better...

No news from the Siberian team and Serguey Bogomolov after August, 10. We know about the avalanche, but don't know who was missing...

11 August, 2006 K2, Serguey Bogomolov: August, 10 - we're sitting in Camp 3. It's warm, no visibility. Foigt's ascending to us. August, 9- We climbed to Camp 3. But it was extremely hard -after 6 days in CAmp 2 and we doesn't eat yesterday.

8 August, 2006 Andrew Puchinin, SKYRUNNER project: the speed ascent of Korzhenevskaya peak (7105 m) yesterday! Ascent: 8 h 50 m (start at the BC 4-35 a.m., top - 1-25 p.m.) finish at the Base Camp (Moskvina, 18-35) Andrew will be the member of Elbrus speed climb.

7 August, 2006 Elbrus Speed Climb September, 14 Competition Info.. Welcome! It'll be a great challenge!

7 August, 2006 K2: Serguey Bogomolov wrote today: the fifth day we're sitting in Camp 2 (6700) (me, Yuri Uteshev and Piotr Kuznetsov). No visibility. Food is about gone, and that's very bad if we'll have to turn back because of it.

5 August, 2006 K2: Serguey Bogomolov wrote Aug, 4 that Foigt, Kuvakin, Rusakov and Gaponov are descending - no visibility at upper part of the route. UTeshev, Bogomolov and Kuznetsov are in CAmp 2.

3 August, 2006 K2: Foigt, Kuvakin, Gaponov, Rusakov are in CAmp 3, Bogomolov, Kuznetsov and Uteshev - in CAmp 2.

2 August, 2006 Pamir: Andrew Puchinin (Skyrunner project) is preparing for the second stage: speed climb of Korzhenevskaya peak (7105 m). Probably, he'll climb tomorrow.

2 August , 2006 Karakorum: Kuzbass team began their summit bid at K2 July, 31. Serguey Bogomolov and Gia Tortladze are going together with the team. Ukraininan team set Camp 3 at Broad peak.

28 July, 2006 K2, SMS from July, 27: Serguey Bogomolov and Gia Tortladze made the deposit in camp 4 (7800), descended to C3, where spent the night and then descended to BC.

27 July, 2006 Broad peak expedition from Chernogolovka: the team (Leonid Butov, Alexander Lutokhin, Dmitry Sinev) summited July, 24 at 6-30 p.m. and returned to BC. All are OK.

25 July, 2006 Alexander Abramov: Everest Rescue Team 2007 project

24 July, 2006 Andrey Puchinin (Kazakhstan): SKYRUNNER project begins! Andrey wants to climb five 7000-ers (Snow Leopard program) in one season and all five climbs will be speed climbs! The first - Lenin peak (7134 m) he has already climb - first in this season. He started July, 16 from Lukovaja (BC) and summited next day at 2-00 p.m. Then descended to BC. Andrey is going to take part in Elbrus speed climb competitions in Fall.

24 July, 2006 Gleb Sokolov and Vitaly Gorelic: Peak Pobeda new route expedition started July, 14. Probably, it'll be the strongest high-altitude climb this year...

24 July, 2006 Broad peak: Uklraine team ( led by Mikhail Zagirnjak, members are: SErgueu Pugatchev, SErguey Boublic, Andrew Kyiko, SErguey Zheleznjak, Maxim Perevalov and Alexey Derebchinsky) reached BC.

24 July, 2006 K2 news: Kuzbass team: Alexander Foigt's party set Camp 3, spent night there and descended to the BC July, 22. Yuri Uteshev's party reached CAmp 1. Serguey Bogomolov and Gia Tortladze with Polish climber are in C1 too. The weather's fine.

10 July, 2006 Broad peak expedition from Chernogolovka: all are in Skardu.

10 July, 2006 Serguey Bogomolov and Gia Tortladze reached Asloke July, 8.

10 July, 2006 K2: Kuzbass team set Camp 2 on the classic route (6700 m).

10 July, 2006 Masherbrum: the party Oleg Khvostenko - Eugeny Dmitrienko July, 8 left BC for setting camp at 5600-5700 at the ridge, where the team will start for Masherbrum Wall from. The weather's hot.

3 July, 2006 Four-members Broad peak expedition from Chernogolovka (Moscow region town) will start July, 5 from Moscow. The team members are: Dmitry Sinev (born in 1972), Serguey Chunin (born in 1963), Alexander Lutokhin (born in 1962) and Leonid Boutov (born in 1964, now lives in San Diego, KA)

3 July, 2006 Masherbrum: the team led by Alexander Ruchkin managed the second acclimatization climb on Saturday-Sunday. They planned to reach 6500, but had to turn back from 6000 due to the strong wind, snow and dangerous carnices. Now they're resting in BC. Mr Hanif, the senior Pakistan Meteorologist, promises the weather window from Monday-Tuesday during 6-7 days. The team's planning Masherbrum climb these days. Photo: 6000 m

World's news

31 August, 2006 XX Rock Master, Arco, September 2-3

4 August, 2006 K2: Japanese Tokai University team summited K2 August 1, at 4:50 pm, local time. after climbing the Cesen route (SSE ridge). Yuka Komatsu (23), become the first Japanese lady climber to summit K2, Tatsuya Aoki (21) is now the youngest K2 summiteer ever.

3 August, 2006 Spaniards Alberto Cerain and Xabier Alzola have summited Hidden Peak - 7 days after reaching the summit of GII.

27 July, 2006 K2: Italians Nives Meroi and her husband Romano Benet summited yesterday - they begin the summit push at 2 a.m. and reahed the top at 10-30 a.m., then descended to Camp 4. Congratulations! Photo: Nive and Romano at Dhaulagiri in 2005, www.k2climb.net


25 July, 2006 Karakorum Slovak Expedition: Hainabrakk, Shi[ton Spire and Uli Biaho.

24 July, 2006 Young Polish girl Kinga Baranowska (HiMountain Team) summited Broad peak July, 22, after some-days sitting in high camp during extremely bad weather.

10 July, 2006 Nanga Parbet : Bulgarians Nikolay Petkov and Doychin Boyanov summited NP July, 8 via Kinshofer Route after 14-hours attack in deep snow

3 July, 2006 Broad Peak: Ryan Waters summited June, 25 via normal route. Then FTA members John Dowd, Mick Murphy and Marcus Dell summited June, 29 in bad weather conditions. Now FTA leader Jeff Justman is evacuated with lungs infection and other member, Alan Arnette with stomach infection.