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January - February 2006 news

27 February, 2006 Everest South-North traverse: Yuri Ermachek

24 February, 2006 Krasnoyarsk success in Alps: after reaching of Matterhorn top Feb 23 the third team - Glazyrin, Rodikov, Cherezov - descended to the base next morning.

19 February, 2006 Krasnoyarsk success in Alps: one team ( Eugeny Dmitrienko, Vladimir Arkhipov, Piotr Malygin and Dmitry Tsyganov) climbed Eiger's North Face diretissima - new Russian route in heavy snowfall and storm wind conditions. The second team reached Grandes Gorasse's top via the North Face Feb, 18.

11 February, 2006 Steve House and Vince Anderson got PIOLET D'OR for the best 2005 climb - Nanga Parbat Rupal Face.

27 January, 2006 Valle di Daone (Italy): UIAA Ice Climbing World
Cup 2006, results
Maria Shabalina and Nickolay Shved win the first stage of the Ice World Cup Speed, followed by Natalia Kulikova and Eugeny Krivosheitsev.

25 January, 2006 Yuri Ermachek's mountaineering courses took place in Tujuk Su near Almaty in January. 35 young mountaineers from different regions had trained about 2 weeks in winter mountaineering camp with experienced instructors, climbed mountains (from 1 to 4A Russian grade) ERmachek's camps became very popular in Russia, next course will be in February in the same place, and Summer course - in Ala Archa (Kyrgyzstan). Photo

20 January, 2006 "2 continents" - the second stage of the project of Saint Petersburg climbers has been successfuly finished in North America - the team climbed Long's Peak and Grand Teton in North America.

19 January, 2006

Amur region Combine team left Blagoveshensk for China Jan, 16, for winter climb new route at Sigunan North Face. I. Shrstnev - the leader of the team.

10 January, 2006 Serguey Samoilov: ...Those who climb big walls will understand me.... - interview for Russianclimb.com

10 January, 2006 Boris Sedusov, Vjacheslav Pashkov and Alexander Abramov were first who climbed p. Vinson (Antarctica) in 2006.

10 January, 2006 "2 continents" - the project of Saint Petersburg climbers. The first stage has been successfuly finished in New Zealand - Anatoly Moshnikov, his son Ivan Moshnikov and Japanese woman Sakagami Mitsue climbed Mt. Cook December, 24 via classic route. The next stage - Long's Peak and Grand Teton in North America.

10 January, 2006 The first step of All-Russian Ice-climbing Cup took place in Kourovka (Ural) on 6-9 January. The winners are: difficult Marina Rashitova and Alexander Matveev, speed - Natalja Kulikova and Pavel Guljaev.

World's news

22 February, 2006 Henry Barber was awarded by Robert and Miriam Underhill Award, the nation's highest honor for climbing achievement, at the American Alpine Club's annual meeting and Mountain Fest in Attitash, New Hampshire.

16 February, 2006 Patagonia: Alex Huber and Stephan Siegrist opened a new route on Aguja Desmochada, Fitz Roy Massif. The pair free-climbed the 25 pitches-long route almost entirely: They only 'aided' a A1’s 4 meters-long section. After one bivouaq 250m below the top, they reached the summit at 10:00 am on February 1. They’ve named the new line ‘Golden eagle’ (5.11+)

30 January, 2006 Makalu: Jean Christophe Lafaille is reported missing. Last contact with the climber was on Thursday, over satellite telephone. when JC was at 7600 meters, before the the final summit push. The climber has not been heard from since.

26 January, 2006 Makalu: On January, 25, Jean-Christophe Lafaille began his summit bid. He hopes to reach Makalu's summit in 5 to 6 days. Moral is good and so is motivation, even tough conditions are harsh.

23 January, 2006 Valle di Daone (Italy): UIAA Ice Climbing World
Cup 2006, results
Ines Papert, Harry Berger and Samuel Anthamatten win the first stage of the Ice World Cup Difficulty

20 January, 2006 Valle di Daone (Italy): UIAA Ice Climbing World
Cup 2006, 20-22 January

20 January, 2006 Congratulations to "Aconcagua Condor" Angelo D'Arrigo with new World record for altitude by flying his hang-glider to 9,100 (29,850 feet) meters above sea level, which he established Jan, 6, 2006 in Andes.

9 January, 2006 Makalu: On January, 8, Jean-Christophe Lafaille will leave BC (5300 m) in order to spend the night at 6000. During the next four days he will try his best to reach 7400 m Jean-Christophe should be back to BC on January 12th.

9 January, 2006 Austrian mountaineer, explorer and friend of the Dalai Lama, Heinrich Harrer who became famous through the book and film "Seven Years in Tibet" died on Saturday aged 93.

16 November, 2005 Spaniard Carlos Pauner will attempt Manaslu West face next spring. Manaslu will be celebrating the 50th anniversary of its first ascent the same year There is only one route starting on the West face, opened by Reinhold Messner in 1972 – and that is the traverse line which joins the normal route. Silvio Mondinelli repeated Messner’s route in 1990. Pauner hopes to open a new line right by the middle of the face via the thin gully, or through the unclimbed ridge at the right side.

“Whatever the case, if we summit we will have to rappel down back the face. Traversing is not a suitable option in logistical terms, since both sides are very far away from each other.”

Carlos is trying to find a big enough team to attempt the new route. “I am really looking forward to climbing a lonely mountain, to feel there is no one there but my team, and to be free to attempt a new route, to figure out what my next move will be. In this sense, Manaslu is the perfect choice!”

Manaslu is celebrating the 50th anniversary of its first ascent. Climbing fees have been reduced by 50% for the occasion. However, reaching the summit has proved a tough task – no one has made it since 2003.


12 October, 2005 Shisha Pangma: October, 4 at 1-30 pm Spaniards Juan Vallejo, Ferran Latorre and Jose Carlos Tamayo (Al Filo team) plus Egocheaga summited Shisha Pangma Main (8027 m) via Britain route (South- West Face)

The route was first climbed by Doug Scott, Alex MacIntyre and Roger Baxter-Jones in 1982. Juan Vallejo's report: "We started on October, 2nd from BC, stopped at Scott bivouac (6200m) for the night. Next day we climbed to a second bivouac place at 7100m. At 4.30 am on October 4th we headed for the summit. Jorge Egocheaga had joined us, after his climbing mate (Inaki Ochoa) returned home. Summit day took us over delicate terrain, pretty vertical. The summit ridge was sharp and exposed - it took us two hours to get over it. We reached the summit at 1:30 pm, and climbed back down all the way to the bivouac site at 7100m. At dawn the following morning, we rappelled back to Scott's bivouac, where we retrieved out gear and proceeded back to ABC."

THese guys were the first and only team to reach the top of Shisha Pangma main summit (8.027m) so far this fall season.

About climbers: Juan Vallejo has summited Everest, K2, Makalu, Lhotse, Cho Oyu, and Annapurna. Ferran Latorre was awarded the Spanish version of the Golden Piolet for a winter climb to the Croz, Alps, together with Manel de la Matta (who perished on K2's Magic Line last year). Ferran climbed Shisha Pangma SE face to the Central summit, Annapurna, attempted the Everest Hornbein couloir in 1995. Working with 'Al Filo', has filmed climbs all over the world. Jose Carlos Tamayo has summited K2 through the north side, G2 and Nanga Parbat. He opened the NE ridge of Chogolisa with Felix de Pablos, and a new route on Paine's Central Tower with Jon Lazkano and Sebastian de la Cruz.