Project "Alps 2006".
January, 30 - February, 27
official site: www.stolby.ru
Thee simultaneous winter climbs to three greatest Alps North Faces: Eiger, Matterhorn, Grandes Jorasses - by three 4-people teams from one mountaineering club. Routes rank are ED - Extremely Difficult. Project leaders: the coaches Nickolay Zakharov and Valery Balezin
Grandes Gorasses: Khvostenko, Litvinov, Pugovkin, Tsygankov.
Eiger: Dmitrienko, Arkhipov, Malygin, Tsyganov.
Matterhorn: Prokofiev, Glazyrin, Rodikov, Cherezov.
The most of them had already climbed Troll Wall, Ak Su, Pobeda peak, Kodar. The new name - Boris Rodikov - is young climber with good perpectives.
All these climbes will be the part of All-Russia Mountaineering Championship in Winter class. One more team from Krasnoyarsk some days ago climbed 6A grade route at Yerydag (Caucasus), Efimov's route. Feb, 11 Eugeny Beljaev, Alexey Komissarov and Igor Loginov reached Yerydag's top.
Climbers arrived to France Feb, 1. The bad weater began just after February 5-6, when they began to climb, and the forecast was very bad, but athletes decided not to turn back. Feb, 9-10 the huge heavy snowfalls were in Alps. Team mates said that "Wind's so strong that rock pieces fly in the air" Feb, 15 Denis Prokofiev, the leader of the Matterhorn team, felt ill, and was evaquated. The rest three climbers were continuing the Polish route. Meantimes, the weather forecast worsened from day to day. The teams had to concentrate all their forces. Who could imagine that there, in Alps, would be such Siberian conditions! They were continuing to fight with giant North Faces!
And, Feb, 17 - good info: Eiger team reached the top at 12-00 a.m. THey climbed diretissima - new Russian route. Than - the descent in extreme conditions - no visibility, huragane wind, heavy snowfall - and all the team is in the base hut. But other two teams are on the routes: Grandes Gorasses - it remaines 2 pitches to the top ridge, Matterhorn - they climbed 2 pitches that day. How much it remaines?
Feb, 18 . Grandes Gorasses team started at 7 a.m. At 5 p.m. they reached the top. And descended to the portaledge at about 9 p.m. Matterhorn team climbed 3 more pitches. One hour was not so bad weather at the evening.
Feb, 24. The total success of the Krasnoyarsk project! Today, after the reaching of Matterhorn top the third team - Glazyrin, Rodikov, Cherezov - descended to the base. It was the last stage of the project "Alps 2006" - Eiger, Grandes Gorasses and Matterhorn North Faces climbs. The third team reached the top Feb, 23 at 9-20 a.m. and three hous later they drank tea in the upper hut on the mountain. Then they descended to the base next morning.
Some very young athletes (22-24 y.o.) took part in the project.
Last Krasnoyarsk project:
Troll Wall, February, 2001