Альпинизм в России и СНГ
Home: главные новости российского и зарубежного альпинизма

 

K2.Winter International Expedition 2019

 

 

04.10.18

 


The winter high-altitude climbs are considered to be highly complex and prestigious. They are able only for the extra class climbers. To nowdays, the second highest peak of the planet, K2 (8611 m), located in Karakorum on China-Pakistan border,  is the only eight-thousander, which no one climbed in winter. Five expeditions tried to solve this problem, but to no avail.

  • 1987-1988  Polish National Expedition from Pakistan side, led by Andrzej Zawada. Climbed till 7300 m.

 

  • 2002-2003  Polish expedition from Chinese side, led by Krzystof Wielicki. Climbed till 7650 m

 

  • 2011-2012  Russian National Expedition from Pakistan side, led by Victor Kozlov. Climbed till 7200 m.

 

  • 2014-2015  The expedition from Chinese side did not take place — the authorities refused to issue the permit.

 

  • 2017-2018  Polish National Expedition from Pakistan side, led by Krzystof Wielicki. Climbed till 7400 m.

The team of the strongest high-altitude climbers from Kazakhstan, Russia and Kyrgyzstan is preparing for a new attempt to climb the eight-thousander K2 in winter 2019. Each of the participants understands the risk of such climb, but the desire to reach the top of this great Mountain in winter and leave a mark in the mountaineering history is a matter of honor and pride for Russia, Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan.

 

The team challenges:
* Height with the thin air (participants will not use oxygen in cylinders)
* Technical complexity of the routes to the top
* Prevailing strong winds in the winter season, with speeds up to 200 km / h
* Average temperature -40C
* Water only in the form of ice and snow
* Full autonomy of the expedition
* Cold fatigue (two months in tents in the base camp on the glacier and in high-altitude camps, where you can warm up mostly only with the energy of your own body

The route to the top from the Base Camp includes four high-altitude camps. The decision about the route will be made on the spot.

The team:


vassily_pivtsov.jpg

Vassily Pivtsov (Kazakhstan), 1975, expedition leader, team sport leader

artem_braun.jpg

Artem Brown  (Russia), 1976, the project organizer

roman_abildaev.jpg

Roman Abildaev (Russia), 1984.

 

vitaly_akimov.jpg

Vitaly Akimov (Russia), 1968

tursunali_aubakirov.jpg

Tursunali Aubakirov (Kazakhstan), 1985

mikhail_danichkin.jpg

Mikhail Danichkin   (Kyrgyzia) 1981 .

ildar_gabbasov.jpg

Ildar Gabbasov (Kazakhstan), 1977

eugeny_glazunov.jpg

Eugeny Glazunov (Russia) 1987

dmitry_muravjov.jpg

Dmitry Muraviov (Kazakhstan), 1967

serguey_seliverstov.jpg

Serguey Seliverstov (Kyrgyzia) 1979

Pavel Vorobjov (Russia), 1968

 

All athletes did a lot of climbs above 7000m, some of them took place in "Winter Snow leopard" program, and the team leader Vassily Pivtsov has climbed all 14 highest peaks of the world without the use of artificial oxygen.  (#26 on the Quest-14 list).  Thus, the team has a good chance of success of this expedition.

The team is ready to cooperate in all areas with sponsors interested in supporting the project –gear and high-altitude equipment manufactoriers, energy drinks, cars, equipment for filming, telecommunications companies, TV channels, news agencies, etc.
The winter K2 climb by the strong team, which will attract the attention of a wide audience around the world for several months  is the great opportunity for sponsors to express themselves.

 

Contacts:

 

Winter K2 expedition 2019  
Artem Brown, organizer, expedition member.  winterk2exp2019@gmail.com
Elena Laletina, press secretary,  info@russianclimb.com
WhatsApp account +79052744072