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June - July 2004 news

29 July, 2004 Vladimir Suviga summited K2 yesterday, July, 28. Congratulations!

28 July, 2004 The first ascent of Elbrus, the highest top of Europe was in July, 28 1874 - 130 years ago, by a British party with a Swiss guide.

26 July, 2004 Photogallery from Everest North Face expedition. Part2 ( by Pavel Shabaline)

22 July, 2004 Mramornaya Stena, 6400 m (Marble Wall) - the project of Central Sport's Club of Kazakhstan Army at Tien Shan. Serguey Samoilov - the leader of the team.

22 July, 2004 Congratulations to Arkady Seregin, Alexander Lastochkin, Serguey Kovaljov and Valery Rozov - they've summited Amin Brakk July, 19. Valery Rozov successfuly base jumped from the wall from 5550 m - July, 21.

20 July, 2004 Photogallery from Everest North Face expedition. Part1 ( by Pavel Shabaline)

19 July, 2004 Denis Urubko became yesterday the winner of the speed climb of Noursultan Peak (4376 m) in Tien Shan. (28 climbers took part in that competition).

19 July, 2004 Congratulations to Krasnoyarsk mountaineers - their team won the All Russia Championship in rock class in Yergaki

15 July, 2004 Pavel Shabaline comments the route line of Everest North Wall Expedition

15 July, 2004 Climbing championship was in Hiitola (Karelia, 200 km far from Saint Peterburg) July 3-4. Photogallery.

6 July, 2004 Sir Edmund Hillary visited Saint Petersburg

30 June, 2004 Jannu North Face - photogallery

22 June, 2004 Amin Brakk: the team of Russian Extremal Project reached the BC.

17 June, 2004 The press conference of Jannu team took place in Sheremetjevo airport June,9. Pictures.

7 June , 2004The Russian Everest Expedition to the Central North Wall: today two teams - Everest and Jannu will have the meeting with the Prime Minister of Nepal. The next project of the national team will be the new route to K2.

6 June , 2004 Kazakhstan Makalu Expedition: The team arrived to Almaty yesterday.

1 June , 2004The Russian Everest Expedition to the Central North Wall: (evening) all climbers descended to base camp. The expedition is over. The team'll arrive to Moscow June,9.


World's news

28 July, 2004 K2: Spanish climber Carlos Soria reached the summit in 9-00 local time in age of 65 - he became the oldest comquer of K2. Mario Lacedelli and Luciano Zardini summited in 9-45; four Chineese climbers summited at 9-50; Swiss guide Michel Andre and one sherpa and Pakistan Mohamed Sanap Akam summited; The Colombian climber Fernando Gonzalez- Rubio summited yesterday.

27 July, 2004 K2 summited - the first success in three years! The Italians marked the 50th anniversary of the first K2 summit in style!
Silvio Mondinelli and Karl Unterkircher of the Italian team summited yesterday, Than Edurne Pasaban, Juanito Oiarzabal, Juan Vallejo, and Mikel Zabalza (Al Filo, Spain) have all summited K2 at 16.30 hrs local time. 45 minutes thereafter, three more Italians summited - Walter Nones, Michele Compagnoni, and Ugo Giacomelli. All are back in Camp 4. Congratulations! Some statistics

26 July, 2004 Carlos Pauner summited Hidden Peak yesterday, July 25. (

16 july, 2004 Lenin peak - the first climb of the season was made by French climbers (George Barisas, Karen Marshon and Scott Woolums)- two of them skiied down! Lots more people arrivied also with teams from Poland, Holland, Russia, France, Kazakhstan and Germany on the mountain. (

16 July, 2004 Bad weather on K2 and Gasherbrum - nobody climbed theese mountains. G2's famous crest, affectionately known as Banana Ridge, has collapsed, blocking the access to the normal route up this splendid mountain." All climbers are safely in BC due to poor weather conditions. Currently Ralf Dujmovits of Amical Alpin, Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner, Hirotaka Takeuchi and Christian Pittroff are climbing GII.

6 July, 2004 In 1912 in that day Heinrich Harrer was born, Austrian climber, who did the first ascent of the Eiger North Face, was a teacher of the Dalai Lama and wrote the book "7 years in Tibet".

30 June, 2004 Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner has five 8,000ers, most recently bagging Annapurna in May. Right now she is in the Gasherbrums Base Camp, planning on a double header GI/ GII ascent and then on to K2 to join in the ranks of this seasonís female K2 attempts with Edurne Pasaban, Nives Meroi and Eva Zarzuelo. Photo:

30 June, 2004 K2: ATP reported yesterday that 5 porters drowned while taking an Italian group to climb K2. They were caught in a swift-moving stream while carrying luggage for the Italian team. Italian K2 North: The weather has finally improved, giving the team a chance to properly set up BC. Italian K2 South: the team went up to Camp 1 (6100m) today in order to set up Camp 2 (6700m) tomorrow.

22 June, 2004 June,18 almost the whole team from Amical Alpin (Germany) reached the summit of Nanga Parbat (8125m) by the Kinshoffer route - Michael Demjen-Lerjen, Flurin Sporri, Michael Lundell, Michael Schafroth, Franz Stockel, the high altitude porter Serva, and both guides Michi Warthl and Herbert Wolf.

22 June, 2004 K2: Camilo A. Lopez and Fernando Gonzalez Rubio (American expedition) set Camp 2 at Abruzzi spur.

22 June, 2004 Broad Peak: American climbers, Chad Kellogg and Rory Stark have set camp 2

18 June, 2004 Chad Kellog is American speed climber, who won the race at KHan Tengri last summer. Now his objectives are Broad Peak and K2. He set Camp 1 at Broad Peak yesterday and is going to set Camp 2 today. He climbs with Fred, the Norwegian, and Rory.

8 June, 2004 K2 Italian Jubelee expeditiom Adriano Greco and Ugo Giacomelli set Camp 1 at 6100m Just minutes after they reached BC a big avalanche crossed the glacier they had just descended.

2 June, 2004 K2 Italian Jubelee expeditiom reaches K2 base camp

Vladimir Suviga summited K2 (8611m) - the second highest top of the world - with the support of the joint-stock
company "Nauryz Bank Kazakhstan" He reached the top at 2 p.m. on local time on Wednesday, on July, 28, 2004. Only one Kazakhstan climber was at the top of K2 before - well-known Anatoly Boukreev. Now Vladimir is going back to Askole. He plans to arrive to Almaty August, 10

Vladimir works as the counselor of Chairman of joint-stock company " Nauryz Bank Kazahstan ", he is twice "Snow leopard ", summited Kangchenjunga in 1989 with the combined national team of the USSR, and was awarded with an orden "For personal courage ". In 1997 he was awarded with Kazakhstan orden "Aibyn" for Everest climb without oxygen. The Honoured Master of sports of the USSR in the mountaneering, Honoured coach of Kazakhstan Republik since 1997.

The press-service of joint-stock company "Nauryz Bank Kazakhstan "

to the top

27 July, 2004 K2 climb- some statistics

Silvio Mondinelli has now got his number nine 8,000er and has become the fourteenth person to climb the Top 3 (E, K2 and Kangchenjunga) without O2! Karl Unterkircher has climbed Everest and K2 without O2 in the shortest time (2 months and two days). Juanito Oiarzabal now has 21 8000m-climbs and is only the third person to climb K2 twice.
Edurne Pasaban has bagged her seventh 8,000er and is the only woman to have climbed four of the five highest mountains of the earth. Edurne became the 6-th woman even climb K2.

22 July, 2004 There's Marble Wall peak - in the heart of Tien-Shan mountains, at South-East part of Kazakhstan. At the altitude 6400 it closes Bayankol valley as the highest top of the region. This forbidden place is very close to Almaty Ė only about 400 kilometers, but the way is quite difficult there. The team of Central Sportís Club of Kazakhstan Army is preparing for Marble Wall climb in August , 2004. Young climbers will try the high altitude by the normal route under the leadership of coach Serguey Samoilov. All of them have passed through the hard trainings before the expedition. In Tujuk Su they've managed a lot of technical climbs - it provided the good acclimatization and physical shape. At the end part of expedition those of members who's experience's enough, will climb the new route at Marble Wall North Face.

Denis Urubko
Central Sportís Club of Kazakhstan Army
SALICE, Laísportiva, CAMP, The North Face

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