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Makalu (8463 м)
(Paragot ridge)

Kazakhstan expedition

Spring 2004

The West Buttress ("Paragot ridge"- after the leader of the successful French expedition in 1971, Robert Paragot). The first ascenders were Bernard Mellet and Yannick Seigneur in 1971. The first time without supplementary oxygen was with John Roskelley (US) in 1980. The last time it was climbed was by Loretan and Troillet (both Swiss) Manu Badiola and Carles Valles (both Spain) in 1991. All of these last ascents were without supplementary oxygen.

Kazakhstan project

25 May, 2004 Today at 1 a.m. Damir Molgachev and Artjom Rychkov began the summit bid but because of strong wind and worsening weather have been compelled to turn back. Now they're already in Camp 3 and and tomorrow will be in base. The temperature continues to fall.

24 May, 2004 The party Molgachev-Rychkov is in Camp 4 and they will attempt their summit bid tomorrow. The weather's fine. Serguey Brodsky and Alex Rudakov are setting off CAmp 2 and going down to BC.

Vladislav Terzyul is missing after he summited Makalu together with Jay Sieger.

22-23 мая, 2004 Погода плохая, снег идет в базовом лагере.

22 May, 2004 The party Vassily Pivtsov-Maksut Zhumayev summited Makalu via Paragot ridge May, 20 at 9-50 local time in pure visibility contitions. Congratulations!

When descending they have found the body of American climber Jay Sieger - he died at 8300 m.

Yesterday the second group Molgachev- Brodsky- Rychkov and Rudakov left base camp and began their summit bid. The first party descended to Camp 2 and will be at Base Camp soon.

17 May, 2004

Three days ago three-men team - Molgachev, Brodsky, Rychkov set Camp 4 at 7700-7800 m. The wall (key part of the route at Paragot ridge) has been already climbed, the team reached the "roof" and attempted the summit, but was failed because of strong winds and hard work in previuos day (including a pendulum at height of 7600 m), could not summited, and now they go down for rest in base camp. They'll undertake an summit attempt after the rest. Pivtsov and Zhumayev are going up to camp 4. Vladislav Terzyul (Ukraine)and Jay Sieger (US) go up now by the ready fixed ropes.

12 May, 2004 E.T. Iljinsky from the BC: In two last days Vassily Pivtsov, Maxut Zhumayev and Alexander Rudakov have fixed 300 m of the very difficult route and reached 7700 m. It's only 30 m to the place where the team is planning to set Camp 4, but the day has ended and the darkness began. Guys are descending now, and other group - Molgachev, Brodsky and Rychkov - are going apwards to fix theese 30 m and to set Camp 4 (May, 12)

11 May, 2004 E.T. Iljinsky from the BC: the team is working now between 7500-7800 m, at the key part of the Paragot ridge. All are OK. (May, 10)

6 May, 2004 Camp 3 has been set at 7400. The group, which did it, descend to the BC, and other group ascend to set CAmp 4.

This's a picture of Makalu, made by Simone Moro on May,4 from Baruntse top.


Makalu - look from the space

you can see Himalaya in view, unable from the Earth. The astronavts from the International Space Station made theese pictures - the view from Tibet plateau to South. You can see Makalu (left) and Everest (right), the North Face. Photo Credit: NASA. Zoom picture - here. And also Himalayan panorama is there.

29 April, 2004 Camp 3 hasn't set yet, the group 's working on the route. It was snowing after 11 a.m. and it lasted till the evening.

28 April, 2004 Alexey Bolotov from Jannu sends greetings to Kazakhstan guys and wishes good weather and success.

26 April, 2004 Camp 1 and Camp 2 have been set. The first group are climbing up now to set Camp 3.

22 April, 2004
The first group climbed up to set CAmp 1. The group 2 will go upward tomorrow - to carry loads and set Camp 2. (info from April, 20)

16 April, 2004

The team arrived to the Makalu Base Camp (4800 m) by helicopter - two days later than planned because of the strong wind April 14,15.

So, there are two Services expeditions at the bottom of Makalu: Central Army Sport Club of Kazakhstan and British Servisces.


14 April, 2004 The team flew to Lukla.

12 April, 2004 Kathmandu, the briefing in Tourism Ministry

meeting with

Elizabeth Hawley

packing loads

9 April, 2004 The team left for Nepal. Equipment: RedFox


Maxut Zhumayev (team leader)

The coach of the team - Ervand Iljinsky.

Vladislav Terzyul (Ukraine) will climb togerther with the team

Generale Novikov gives the CSKA flag to Ervand Iljinsky

Ervand Iljinsky and Generale Novikov

Serguey Brodsky gives the interview

Vassily Pivtsov, Alex Rudakov and Max Zhumayevв

Artjom Rychkov, Serguey Brodsky and Damir Molgachev

Press- conference