Back to the latest news

Summer 2011 news

24 August, 2011 K2: Max and Vaso spent night at 8300, in the tent. Gerlinde and Darek went to C4. In the morning Max and Vaso descended to C4 on 9 am. All climbers descended to C3 already. They'll try to went down to C1 today.

23 August, 2011 Denis Urubko about the new route on Pobeda peak

23 August, 2011 K2: SUMMIT!!! Today on 6-35 pm Gerlinge Kaltenbrunner, Maxut Zhumayev, Vassily Pivtsov and Darek Zalussky topped out 8611 m! Congrats!

They started today at 1-30, but forced to turn back because of strong cold early morning, but then they started again from their tent at 7-30.

Gerlinde, Maxut and Vaso completed the program "14x8000ers".

18 August, 2011 Kazakhstan climbers Denis Urubko and Gennady Durov climbed the new route on the North Face of Pobeda peak (F6a, M5) 10-15/08/2011.

16 August, 2011 Ternua Female Team - Gasherbrums 2011. Maria Khitrikova (Ukraine) climbed Gasherbrum I. (detailes will be soon)

27 June, 2011 Trango Nameless Tower. Siberian climbers Denis Veretenin and Eugeny Bashkirtsev climbed Spanish route in 2 days. Started July, 21 on 5 am. Climbed 14 pitches till 8pm (the last pitches in the darkness already). Next day they reached the top about 8 pm. July, 23 they descended to the base camp on 6pm.

25 June, 2011 Broad Peak. Alexey Bolotov summited July, 22. It looks like he changed his previous plan about K2, and won't do the attempt of the new route. Now he's going home.

25 June, 2011 Ternua Female Team - Gasherbrums 2011. The Winners of International Elbrus Race (2009, 2010) Maria Khitrikova (Ukraine) and Aleksandra Dzik (Poland) summited Gasherbrum II July, 22 on 2pm. They descended to C3 to 9 pm.

4 July, 2011 Nanga Parbat. Kyrgyz-Russian team. The team began the climb from C4 July, 1 on 2am, but the weather worsened, no visibility, snowfall and the strong wind. 7500 m climbers reached after 5 hours of work, only 200 m altitude difference... So, they decided to turn back, and descended to C2 (6100) to the evening. Next day the team descended to BC. They have no time for the second attempt, so begin the way home.

2 July, 2011 Nanga Parbat. Kyrgyz-Russian team. C4 (7300 m) has been set July, 1. Waiting the news, crossing fingers for the team.



30 June, 2011 Nanga Parbat. Kyrgyz-Russian team. The first group (Nickolay Gutnik, Pavel Vorobjev and Anastasia Cheremhykh) reached 7200 and set C3 there in 9 pm. The second group (Dmitry Grekov, Natalia Zenina and Zamir Kudashev) reached 7100 and spent night there. The team climbed the huge snow field (see the picture). The plan for today was to set C4.

30 June, 2011 K2 from the China: International team (Kazakhs Vassily Pivtsov and Maxut Zhumayev), Ralf Dujmovits (Germany), Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner(Austria), Darek Zalusski (Poand) and Tommy Heinrih (Argentina) set BC at 3500 in the valley near the normal route - NW ridge (Japanese route). It is the second attempt to K2 from China for Maxut (first - in 2007), and the third - for Vassily (2003, 2007).

30 June, 2011 Latok III. Summit! The third attempt of Odintsov's team was successful. June, 25 four climbers - Alexandr Odintsov, Alexey Lonchinsky, Ivan Dozhdev and Eugeny Dmitrienko reached the top. June, 27 they descended to BC by the same route. The climb was the ninth step of the project "Big walls - Russian route". Previous steps were 4810 peak, Aksu, Troll Wall, Bhagirathi, Trango Tower, Great Sail Peak, Jannu, Kyzyl Asker. Photo of the route from June, 24

29 June, 2011 Nanga Parbat. Kyrgyz-Russian team. June 22-25 - rest in BC. June 26 - the team started and reached C1. June, 27 - they climbed to C2 (6100) in a good tempo. June, 28 - the team ascended to C3 (6500). Next day they hoped to move C3 to 7200.

28 June, 2011 Ternua Female Team - Gasherbrums 2011. Yesterday's Masha 21st birthday! And girls met it in C2 at 6450 m. They reached C2 first in the season.

21 June, 2011 Nanga Parbat. Kyrgyz-Russian team, led by Dmitry Grekov (from Bishkek) is enroute. May, 28 they set C1 (4900). June 10 the duo Dmitry Grekov - Zamir Kudashev set C2 (6100), just under Kinshofer wall. Next day they reached the serious ice (very hard) above C2. Five climbers from German expedition decided to refuse from the climb and to return home. Then Grekov and Kudashev did one more push: they brought the loads (600 m of ropes) to C2. After that guys descended to BC. June, 13 Pavel Vorobjev, Natalia Zenina, Nickolay Gutnik and Anastasia Cheremnykh set 300 m ropes above C3, and lifted the tent to the place of C3 (6600 m). June, 17 Grekov and Kudashev started from BC with a task to set C4. If the weather's OK, they're going to the summit.

21 June, 2011 Ternua Female Team - Gasherbrums 2011. Girls set C1 (5700 m). THey're first on the route, nobody else began to climb yet. The push from BC to C1 took them two days. The very difficult glacier, so girls spent a lot of hours to find the way between the crewasses. Tomorrow they're going to fix ropes to C2. Masha said they're OK, only the toilet paper is about run out... So, they will soon been forced to descend :) (It seemed that girls used the paper while crossed crewasses by the snowbridges). They hope Swiss group will reach C1 tomorrow, but now girls have a pleasure of themselves work on the Big Mount route.

10 June, 2011 Elbrus lady-champions became the Ternua Female Team - Gasherbrums 2011. Maria Khitrikova and Ola Dzik are going to Gasherbums. They've met in Islamabad already.

Ola DzikMaria Khitrikova

Two girls, met on International Elbrus Race 2010 last Fall, decided to realise the high-altitude project. Masha (Elbrus Race Winner in 2009): Moreover, first (before the real meeting) I have a couple of weeks scare stories about Ola. For example, in the morning she wakes up, runs to Elbrus eastern top, then descends, has breakfast, runs to Elbrus West top, and can coplete this all all before dinner . The worst thing that I believe that... Every evening I got sms from my friends with stories about her previous high-altitude feats. We were going to run the same distance at the VI international ELBRUS RACE and I just, frankly, surprised by the fact one more crazy girl appeared, who wasn't lazy to run from Azau...

And I was even more impressed by her high-altitude experience and sport achievements, as well as the fact that she came to the race right after the attempt to climb Nanga Parbat, and then followed the ascent to Pobeda peak. But this does not compare to the impression left by her after a personal meeting!

When I stood in the rain on the Azau in the start morning, and just liked that the competition would been moved to the next day and I would be able to sleep a lot under a warm blanket, Ola's eyes shined with the desire to run and she actually "hoof beat ;)

This "terrible woman";), was very positive and pleasant girl to talkl! In general, at home already, in the correspondence with her, I received a letter inviting them to travel to Pakistan for 8000, and I immediately responded positively :)

Now we're going to Gasherbrum II (8035m) and Hidden Peak (8068m), and we are now Ternua Female Team!

Each of us has some acclimatization true, unfortunately we couldn't do this together, for several reasons ... Olga climbed Mont Blanc, I was on Elbrus from the north.

9 June, 2011 K2 South-West Face. Trommsdorf - Bolotov. Two-climbers team meet today in Islamabad. The idea of the new route on K2 belonges to Christian, and he suggested Alexey to became a partner.