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January- February 2007 news

28 February, 2007 K2 North Face in alpine style: Denis Urubko & Serguey Samoilov project.

26 February, 2007 In the morning Feb, 24 Valery Rozov had done Base jump from 1400-m face of Torres del Pain in Patagonia. This's the first Base jump in the region. The climb was done by Alexander Ruchkin, Alexander Odintsov, Valery Rozov, Denis Provalov and Vladimir Kachkov Feb, 21-22. The day after, they had to remain at the summit waiting the end of the strong storm. All descended to the base camp Feb, 24.

21 February, 2007 Dhaulagiri 2007 Kazakh Expedition, led by Urubko.

19 February, 2007 Everest 2007: Kazakh-American expedition

18 February, 2007 Kazakh National team decided to organize the expedition to K2 via the North-West ridge (normal route) in summer 2007. THe team will consist of 8 athletes. The head of the expedition - Baglan Zhunussov, the coach - Ervand Iljinsky.

13 February, 2007 Ice Climbing World Cup. Romania. Final results. Difficulty: men - 1 - Eugeny Krivosheitsev (Ukraine), 2 - Markus Bendler (Austria), 3 - Alexey Tomilov (Russia).

Women - 1 - Jenny Lavarda (Italy), 2 - Petra Muller (Switzerland). 3 - Stephanie Maureau (France).

Final results speed: men - 1 - Alexander Matveev (Russia), 2 - Nikolay Shved (Russia), 3 - Igor Fayzullin (Russia).

Women - 1 - Shabalina Maria (Russia), 2 - Muravyeva Maria (Russia). 3 - Filippova Maryam (Russia)

5 February, 2007 Ice Climbing World Cup. Saas Fee Final results Difficulty: men - 1 - Eugeny Krivosheitsev (Ukraine), 2 - Alexey Tomilov (Russia), 3 - Simon Wandeler (Switzerland).

Women - 1 - Jenny Lavarda (Italy), 2 - Stephanie Maureau (France), 3 - Petra Muller (Switzerland).

Final results speed: men - 1 - Nikolay Primerov (Russia), 2 - Nikolay Shved (Russia), 3 - Igor Fayzullin (Russia) .

Women - 1 - Shabalina Maria (Russia), 2 - Muravyeva Maria (Russia). 3 - Filippova Maryam (Russia)

5 February, 2007 Ak Su winter climb: yesterday all team reached the summit at 14-00 local time.

Piolet D'Or 2007 nomineers

Piolet D'Or 2007. From left to right: Pavle Kozjek, Andrey Rodiontsev, Yuri Koshelenko, Marko Prezelj, Boris Lorencic, Tim Emmett, Igor Chaplinsky, Denis Urubko and Serguey Samoilov. Photo www.Russianclimb.com More photo

2 February, 2007 Marko Prezelj and Boris Lorencic (Slovenia) awarded by 16 th Piolet D'Or January, 26 in Grenoble for their climb north west pillar Chomo Lhari

22 January 2007 7 summits club Antarctic expedition. " in general they have offered us to take off back for Antarctica ".

11 January 2007Ak Su winter climb: two teams from Krasnoyarsk region are going to the region where they hope to climb technical routes, one by duo Vladimir Arkhipov and Eugeny Dmitrienko, and the second by six-persons team: E. Beljaev, O. Hvostenko, V. Gunjkov, I. Loginov, D. Prokofjev and B. Rodikov. The routes will be selected later. The coach - Valery Balezin. A. Komissarov will help guys (www.stolby.ru)

8 January, 2007 K2 routes overview.

8 January, 2007 Piolet d'Or Jury ( 7 votes as the following list) is announced: Yuri Koshelenko (Rus), President, piolet d'or 2003 for Nuptse East south pillar (with Valery Babanov). Steve House and Vince Anderson (USA), as last award-winners for Nanga Parbat Rupal face central pillar. Michel Piola (Sui), piolet d'Or 1992 for Torres del Paine (Patagonie, with Vincent Sprungli), Christian Trommsdorff (FRA), nominated last year for Chomo Lonz traverse (with Yannick Graziani and Patrick Wagnon), Im Duck Yong (COR), journalist, alpiniste amateur, founder Piolet d'Or Asia, Vinicio Stefanello (ITA), journalist, alpiniste amateur, editor on planetmountain.com, Montagnes magazine staff, journalists, alpinistes amateurs

8 January, 2007 Vladimir Belousov and Alexander Novikov from Moscow January, 3 started to climb "Il grande Incubio" at Monte Brento (Arco)

6 January, 2007 Denis Urubko: this year we are planning the expedition to K2 via the new route too. This climb may became the serious sport achievement - so we are training hardly.

3 January, 2007 The first Elbrus climb in New year managed by Olga Shilenina, Eugeny Nikitin and Vladimir Murzaev - they climbed West top January, 1, at 12-30.

World's news

27 February, 2007 Ines Papert Feb, 9 climbed "Law and Order" at Diebsofen in Austria. This is the first-ever M13 female ascent - 40m line (which overhangs for 30m). The route which was first climbed by Markus Bendler, rates as one of Europe's hardest and had been repeated by Harald Berger and Mauro Bubu Bole

22 February, 2007 Broad peak Winter expedition is over. A brief weather window expected yesterday had the Italian climber launching a last-chance summit push. However, by Wednesday morning the still raging
storm kept Shaheen and him from reaching C2.

19 February, 2007 Broad peak Winter expedition.Porters are going from Skardu...

19 February, 2007 In Senora, California, Jan, 27 Emily Harrington climbed Burning Down the House, a 5.14b at Jailhouse. after 20 attempts. She becomes only the second woman in the United States, after Beth Rodden (The Optimist, Smith Rock, Oregon), to redpoint 5.14b.

6 February, 2007 New variation on the North Face of Fitz Roy between Tehuelche and the French Northwest Ridge Slovenians Tomaz Jakofcic and Grega Lacen climbed January, 27-29. They named the variation Los Ultimos Dias de Paraiso and dedicated it to their friend Ozbej Povsod, who died last year. They descended Franco-Argentinean Routeon the south side, in extremely bad conditions.

5 February, 2007 Ice climbing World Cup in Saas Fee 1-3 February

3 February, 2007 Broad peak Winter expedition.Camp 3 has been set.

21 January, 2007 Broad peak Winter expedition.First day on the mountain .

18 January, 2007 Nanga Parbat Winter Polish Expedition is over. The team yesterday made the decision to return to Poland.

15 January, 2007 Broad peak Winter expedition. Simone Moro reached BC.

15 January, 2007 Nanga Parbat Winter Polish Expedition. The next push was unsuccessful: Jacek Javen and Darek Zalusski didn't manage to ascent above CAmp 3 - the huragane wind forced them to turn back. Then duo Krzysztof Wielicki and Artur Haizer didn't find the tent of CAmp 3 and returned to CAmp 2. Now all members are in BC and make a decision about further climb.

13 January, 2007 ICE CLIMBING WORLD CUP 2007 VALLE DI DAONE 19-21 January

12 January, 2007 Nanga Parbat Winter Polish Expedition. Camp 3 has been set yesterday by Robert Szymczak - Przemek Lozinski at 6800. DArek and Jacek Javen ascended to C1

12 January, 2007 Simone Moro: Now its 20 days that I had been waiting and a so long time should kill the ambition and the motivation, but is not happened to me..

10 January, 2007 Patagonia, Fitz Roy express: Pou brothers with Argentinian Fernando Irrazabal summited via West Face January, 6 (Supercanaleta route) in 3 days. They spent first night at the base of the long snow-ice couloir. Next night (Spanish Christmas) after 18 pitches they celebrated on the wall too, and summited next day in 2-30 p.m. That's their sixth wall in "7 walls of 7 continents" project. Now they're going to climb some more routes in the region.

8 January, 2007 Aconcagua speed climb record: Spanish asturian climber Jorge Egocheaga did the 87kms and 4159m Up and down in 14h5min 54sec. The old record was nearly one hour more. The 44kms and 4159m of the way up were done in only 7h 52min.

8 January, 2007 Winter Broad peak expedition: Simone Moro diary

7 January, 2007 Nanga Parbat Winter Polish Expedition. It was -30C in the BC at night. Krzysztof Wielicki, Jacek Berbeka, Krzysztof Tarasewicz and Szulc spent night at 6150 m in C2. THey have brought ropes to 6400, but couldn.t reach 7000 m. They returned to C2 and today will be back to BC.

6 January, 2007 Chilean Patagonia, South Tower Paine21 December Britons Mike Twid and Stuart McAleese are back after climbing a new route on the unclimbed South Face. The route was completed over a 4 week period with portaledge bivouacs and in constantly bad weather. The route climbed the wall 800m to just below the top of the mountain. Only 250m of easy snow climbing led to the summit. Unfortunately a 5 day storm prevented the team topping out on the mountain. The storm was the worst the two had ever experienced. The route was named "The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly"  

5 January, 2007 Nanga Parbat Winter Polish Expedition. Krzysztof Wielicki is 57 today! Happy birthday and good luck on Nanga! The party Haizer - Javen - Zalusski descended yesterday to the BC : very strong wind didn't permit them to fix ropes to CAmp 3. TOday duo Szymczak-Lozinski had fixed 300 of ropes above CAmp 2. and then descended to the base. TRio Krzysztof Wielicki, Jacek Berbeka i Krzysztof Tarasewicz reached Camp 2.