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December, 2002 news

29 December, 2002 The Anatoli Boukreev Memorial Fund 2003-2004 Cross-Culture Climbing Exchange Grant

29 December, 2002 Results of the speed ascent to peak Amangeldy (3999m) (Kazakhstan), devoted to the memory of Anatoly Boukreev

29 December, 2002 Antarctica: Beno Kashakashvili (Georgia), Simone Moro and Alberto Magliano (Italy) climbed Vinson Massif 4895 mt the 25th December at 4.00. Congratulations!

27 December, 2002 New guests congratulate you on our Christmas Tree: Yuri Koshelenko, Vladivostok Alpin Club, Kyrgyz Alpin Club, ASIA TOURISM company, BASK and Red Fox companies.

27 December, 2002 New number of the "EX" - Russian Extreme magazine (6/2002)

26 December, 2002 Kazakhstan climbers are preparing to the Winter Peak Pobeda climb. They have completed the training cycle in Tujuk Su mountaineering camp near Almaty (including the speed ascent to peak Amangeldy, devoted to the memory of Anatoly Boukreev's death on 25th of Dec 1997). Next will be the ascent to Talgar Peak - the highest point of Zailiiskyi Alatau. Then - Peak Pobeda.

25 December, 2002
The Mountaineering Christmas Tree Tree is open!
Many stars shine on it!
You'll get a lot of greetings!
Merry Christmas!

20 December, 2002 NETIA K2 POLISH WINTER EXPEDITION: Denis Urubko wrote from Kashgar

16 December, 2002 NETIA K2 POLISH WINTER EXPEDITION have started from Warsaw today.

16 December, 2002 Antarctica: Beno Kashakashvili (Georgia), Simone Moro and Alberto Magliano (Italy) would like to climb Mount Vinson 4897 meters - the highest point of Antartica.

12 December, 2002

Photo by © Gleb Sokolov

Anatoly Boukreev: "...The risk to die at the high altitude is more for the strong climber than to the weak one..."

It will be five years on the end of December, from the time when Anatoly Boukreev - one of the best World high-altitude mountaineers and the legend of the Russian mountaineering - died in the avalanche on the Annapurna. Half-a-year earlier, in May 1997, in Everest BC on Khumbu glacier, just after the another tragic event - the death of Vladimir Bashkirov on the Lhotse - he gave the interview, recorded on video by Victor Kozlov - about the Everest-Lhotse Traverse Expedition and Indonesian Everest Expedition and Russian Lhotse Expedition in 1997.

Published for the first time. (On Russian only)

5 December, 2002 Netia K2 Polish Winter Expedition will start on the 17th of December from Bishkek. The list of members

2 December, 2002 Fair Play Trophy awarded to Simone Moro. Our congratulations!

2 December, 2002
The famous Russian mountaineer Victor Zhirnov (born 1929) has died on the 29th of November in Saint Petersburg

1 December, 2002 All Russia Mountaineering Championship 2002 - results in technical climbs and first climbs

29 December, 2002 The Anatoli Boukreev Memorial Fund is proud to announce the following grant awards.

2003 - Steve House, has been chosen to receive a grant to compete in a speed climbing event in Kazakhstan

2003 - Valetova Elena Evgenyevna: A young women from Almaty, Kazakhstan has been chosen to receive a grant to climb in the US in 2003. Schooled in Economics and Management she works as a Chief Accountant, plays classical piano and rides horses competitively. Member of the Central Sports Club of the Army, Valetova has numerous
ascents in the Tien Shan Mountains.

Melis Coady, Aubrey Knapp, Keri Meagher and Molly Loomis have been chosen to receive a grant to attend a Russian Climbing Camp near Almaty and then climb Khan Tengri. This group of American Women are all NOLS instructors and Alaska guides. Under a grant from the American Alpine Club they recently completed a ski expedition to Kamchatka, in Far East Russia. Briefly this is the American Group:
Melis Coady - Speaks Russian, B.A. Central Asian Studies, NOLS instructor, member of the Talkeetna Volunteer Fire Department, ascents in Alaska include Denali and Foraker as well as numerous ascents in the Chugach, Wind River and Cascade Ranges.

Aubrey Knapp - B.A. from Berkeley, EMS Medic at the Girdwood, Alaska Fire Department, NOLS Instructor, Ski instructor University of Alaska.

Keri Meagher - B.S. University of Colorado, Kinesiology. NOLS Instructor, Instructor at Alaska Pacific University, numerous ascents in Selkirk, Alaska and Chugach Ranges.

Molly Loomis - B.A. Political Science, also studied in both France
and Argentina, fluent in Spanish and French. NOLS instructor with climbs Alaska and rock/mixed climbs in numerous areas in the U.S..

Please help us make this tremendous exchange opportunity a reality.Donate at the address below or on line at Thanks

29 December, 2002 Results of the speed ascent to peak Amangeldy (3999m) (Kazakhstan), devoted to the memory of Anatoly Boukreev

Members took part - 29, among them veterans - 3, women - 4

Puchinin A. 1972 Kyrgyzstan 1:20'45" 1
Rychkov A. 1979 Kazakhstan 1:24'21" 2
Grinevich D. 1981 Kazakhstan 1:25'03" 3
Chervonenko N. 1962 Kazakhstan 1:28'14" 4
Zhdanov V. 1978 Kazakhstan 1:30'19" 5
Lishenko S. 1985 Kazakhstan 1:35'28" 6
Timoshenko V. 1980 Kazakhstan 1:37'49" 7
Carimon A. 1983 Kazakhstan 1:38'11" 8
Krynin A. 1969 Kazakhstan 1:39'43" 9
Mynzhvsarov D. 1979 Kazakhstan 1:39'50" 10
Koval'chuk V. 1939 Kazakhstan 1:44'40 1
Paramonov Yu. 1951 Kazakhstan 1:58'15 2
Piskal' V. 1948 Kazakhstan 2:08'15 3
Шарипова С. 1970 Kazakhstan 2:09'15 1
Сатекова 1973 Kazakhstan 2:22'41 2
Горбунова В. 1982 Kazakhstan 2:31'12 3
Демкова К. 1983 Kazakhstan 2:37'55 4

29 December, 2002 Antarctica: the message from Simone Moro:

Ciao Russianclimb!!
I, Beno, Alberto, climbed Vinson Massif 4895 mt the 25th December at 4.00 p.m.
It was really cold but blue sky. We had wonderful view from the top....

15 December, 2002 Antarctica. The message from Simone Moro:

I'm still in Punta Arenas since 9 days waiting for the good weather in Antartica. I'm here with Beno Kashakashvili from Georgia and Alberto Magliano from Italy. The aircraft "Illiuschi Mirage" has 2 Russian Pilots but the American company who rented the aircraft want absolutely good weather and wind condition to transport us on the ice..... We would like to climb Mount Vinson 4897 meters the highest mountain of Antartica.

2 December, 2002 The International Commitee for Fair Play - an organisation recognised by the International Olympic Comittee - has awarded Simone Moro with the "Pierre de Cubertin International Fair Play Trophy" for his 2001 rescue efforts of the 19 year-old British mountaineer Tom Moores on the South Face of Lhotse, Himalaya.

The awards ceremony will take place on 9 January 2003 in Paris, directed by the President of the International Commitee for Fair Play, Dr. Jeno Kamuti. The United Nations Secretary General Kofi Annan will be present, as will the Sports Ministers of 160 nations.

The Pierre de Cubertin International Fair Play Trophy Established in 1964, the trophy is awarded to persons or bodies for exemplary behaviour of fair play throughout their career in the field of sports

1 December, 2002 All Russia Mountaineering Championship 2002 (information: Russian Mountaineering Federation) - results in technical climbs and first climbs

Technical climbs (15 January - 30 October 2002)

1. Project "Big Walls - Russian routes" team (Alexander Odintsov (leader) + Davy, Kljonov, Ruchkin, Rozov) - Great Sail peak (Baffin Island)

2. Kirov Mountaineering Federation team (Ilyas Tukhvatullin (leader) + Pavel Shabalin) - Aksy (Pamir-Alay), the Center of the North Face

3. Moscow Mountaineering Federation team (Serjogin (leader) + Akhmedkhanov, Lastochkin) - Serro Torre (Patagonia), Compressor route

4. "Romantic" club team (Moscow region) (Dzaparidze (leader) + Boiko, Dzitnik, Pivikov, Khomchenko) - Shkhara (Caukasus), Razumov route

5. Dagestan Rescue team (Murtazaliev - leader) Yerydag, Caucasus

6. Combined team (Paskhin (leader) + 9 members) - Lhotse (Himalaya), classic route

7. Perm team (Puchnin (leader) + Malafeev, Popov) - Jaylyk (Caucasus), Li route

8. "Sokol" alpclub team, Norilsk (Paveljev (leader) + Kartsev, Koltakov, Paveljeva, Toporkov - Dalar (Caucasus), NE ridge

First climbs (1 March - 30 October)

1. Irkutsk Sport Club of Army team (Afanasjev (leader) + Khandagapov, East Kupol (Sayan), North Face

2. Saint Petersburg Mountaineering Federation team (Korabelnikov +4) - Sablja (Ural)NE Face Center

3. Perm team (Puchnin + 2) - Sablja (Ural)NE Face Right

4. Krasnoyarsk team (Balezin (leader) + Tsyganov, Dmitrienko) - West Sfinks (Sayan), North Face

5. Burjatia Mountaineering Federation team (Kolesov (leader) +TUgarin, Sherstnev) - p. Argada (Barguizine)East Face Center

6. Krasnoyarsk team (Cherezov (leader) + Starov, Mikhalicin) - Golova (Sayan)East Face

7. Saint Petersburg Mountaineerig Federation team (Rakhmanin (leader) + Robozerov, TRoshinenko) - Misses Tau (Caucasus), East Face

8. Tcheljabinsk team (Morozov (leader) + Sidorenko, Ustjantcev) - Parus (Yergaky, Caucasus), North Face left

November 2002 news

October 2002 news

September 2002 news

January - April, 2002 news