by Vladimir Pestrikov
Ukrainian expedition, without using the help of climbing Sherpas,
arrived to the Dhaulagiri Base camp on 24 of September. It
was the last of expeditions, who had been working on the mountain.
There were problems with the load delivery to Base camp. Porters
left the load in the Hidden Valley in one-day passage from
Dhaulagiri Base camp. Thats why participants and a cook
had to make several passages Hidden Valley-BC for delivering
a load. This put off the expeditions beginning.
the first of October Ukrainian team got out of Base Camp
and organized Camp1 near a standard place (5900), on the third
of October Camp2 was organized (6800). In both camps snow
caves were duged out instead of tents. October 4 the team
climbed to Camp3 (7500) for acclimatization. That day 5 people
of French team were there.
5 members descended to BC for a rest. In the BC there
was traditional for Ukrainian expeditions sauna, which was
very popular with other teams and was used for recovery.
day all the other teams, which were working on Dhaulagiri,
decided to leave the mountain because of bad route condition
and avalanches descend danger.
expedition made a decision to stay and try to climb the peak
from Eastern crest without doing a dangerous traverse right
7th and 8th of October in the Dhaulagiri area was big
snowfall (near 1m).
10th of October team left the Base camp. Deep snow made
difficulties for the movement. And though climbers used snow
shoes (big foot) the speed was very low. For example,
passage from Camp1 to Camp2 took 14 hours instead of usual
12th of October the altitude of 7500m was reached and
Camp3 was set (a tent) at 9 p.m..
13th of October climbers made first reconnaissance in
the direction of Eastern crest.
14th of October the altitude of 7700m was reached. On
dangerous sections climbers fastened near 200m of fixed ropes.
But strong wind that and next days didnt allow working
on the route all light day.
15th and 16th of October the team continued the climbing
and fastened near 100m of fixed ropes and moved some parts
of the ropes to the upper part of route. By the 16th of October
the team reached snow summit (8100m) and planed
a route to the main peak. All these days, from12th to 16th
of October, team had been coming back to the Cam3 for staying
17th of October the team left the Camp3 at 5a.m. and reached
the main summit at 3 p.m. and descended at 6:30p.m.to Camp3.
descend to Base camp took almost three days. Deep snow and
avalanches made movement difficult. Only by 4p.m. of 20th
of October Ukrainian team descended to Base Camp, where at
that time was only one cook Sherpa.
22nd of October the expedition left the Base Camp and
arrived to Marpha on the 23rd. The team left the load in the
Base Camp and prepared it for transportation from Base Camp.
But it was stolen and hasnt been found till now.
all the way from the summit to BC we moved very cautiously,
joined with rope, no permanent safety rope below, avalanches.
On prone to avalanche slopes we cut up snow deliberately to
allow small avalanches to slip down to get a passable way.
In BC we packed up all the bivouac stuff, gear and clothes
to get it ready for evacuation. While we were walking to meet
porters our stuff had been stolen. We came back to KTM with
only chocolate bar. Thank
the 30th of October the team left Nepal and flew back
of long residence on high altitudes and low temperature and
wind influence both participants got frostbitten feet. And
Vladimir Pestrikov had frostbitten his hands fingers.
Right after coming back to Ukraine he was hospitalized. But
now his condition is much better. Doctors make optimistic