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Big Walls - Russian routes

Current step: the of the wall in South America (they don't choose yet)

The project means the ascents via the new routes on the famous Big Walls. Big Wall is the nature phenomenon, a precipice which has a steep more than 70° and the length more than kilometer. There are about twenty Big Walls in the World. The russian team've chosen 10 from the most prestigious Walls for climbing them via new, exclusive routes. In all mountaineering catalogues these routes will have the name "russian route". Climbing each of these Walls is the great event in the mountaineering world. The russian team have chosen the goal, which looks like unpracticable by the quick viev.

Peak 4810, Pamir

The first step of this project was the ascent of 4810 Peak, East Face (Pamir Alay) in 1995 by Alexander Odintsov and Igor Barikhin.

The second - Alexander Odintsov and Alexander Ruchkin (Omsk) ascended the West Face of Aksu Peak (Pamir Alay) in 1996

The third ascent was realized in Norway in 1997. Four russian climbers: Alexander Odintsov, Igor Potan'kin, Alexander Ruchkin and Yuri Koshelenko laid two independent routes on the famous Troll Wall, and these routes are called "russian" since that.

The North Face of unclimbed Bhagirathi Peak in India resigned to four climbers: Igor Potan'kin, Yuri Koshelenko, Vladimir Kachkov and Andrew Lukin in 1998. Alexander Odintsov didn't reach the top, he was obliged to descent from the half of route because of illness.

 

The fifth, equator of the project, was the ascent of West Face of Trango Tower in Pakistan - the object of the cult for mountaneers. "American Alpin Journal" included the ascents to Trango and Bhagirathi to the list of the 100 best ascents of XX Century.

In 2000-2001 the team did two attempts to conquer Latok III in Pakistan. They were swept away by the avalanche, where three of four members had been traumatized. In 2001 on the thirteenth day of the ascent, when it stayed less than one third of the way, Igor Barikhin died in the stonefall. Igor was the highest range climber, whom Alexander Odintsov began this project with.

In spite of the tragedy on Latok III, the project "Big Walls -Russian routes" is continuing.

The ascent of Great Sail Peak on Baffin Island in Polar Canada was realized in the Spring 2002.

Members of the project ( in the different years):

Alexandr Odintsov (St-Petersburg) - head of project,
Potan'kin Igor (St-Petersburg), Troll Wall, Trango Tower, Bhagirathi II
Yuri Koshelenko(Rostov-on-Don), Troll Wall, Trango Tower, Bhagirathi II, Latok III 2000 attempt.
Alexandr Ruchkin (Almaty) - Troll Wall, Latok III 2000 attempt, LATOK III -2001, Great Sail Peak 2002
Lukin Andrei (St-Petersburg) - Bhagirathi III expedition,
Kachkov Vladimir (St-Petersburg) - Bhagirathi III expedition.
Igor Barikhin (St-Petersburg) 4810, Latok III-2001
Michail Davy (Yekaterinburg) LatokIII-2001, Great Sail Peak 2002
Sergey Efimov Latok III-2000
Alexander Kljonov (Yekaterinburg) LatokIII-2001, Great Sail Peak 2002
Sergei Hadzhinov (St-Petersburg) Latok III-2001
Valery Rozov (Moscow) Great SAil Peak 2002
Mikhail Bakin - doctor of expeditions: Trango Tower, Bhagirathi II, Latok III 2000 attempt, Latok III-2001, Great Sail Peak 2002
Ivan Samoilenko - high altitude camera man on Trango Tower, film maker, Great Sail Peak 2002

List of ascents
Peak 4810 - Pamir (1995)
Peak Aksu - Pamir (August 1996)
Troll Wall - Norway (July- August 1997)
Bhagirathi III - India (Autumn 1998)
Trango Tower - Pakistan (August 1999)
Latok III - Pakistan (July 2000) -first attempt
The BASK-LATOK III expedition (June-July 2001) -second attempt
Great Sail Peak - Baffin Island - Canada - (May 2002)
Fitz Roy - Argentina
Rarayma - Venesuella
Huascaran - Peru
El Capitan - USA
Jannu - Nepal

Aksu Bhagirathi Trango Tower Troll Wall LatokIII
 Aksu Bhagirathi III Trango Tower Troll Wall Latok III



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