- Travels. Adventures. Extreme"
April - May, #3/2002
in Saint Petersburg
- Sergey Shibaev
The first Russian Himalayan expedition -"Everest-82".
It was the 62-nd expedition in the
history of the mountain and the 25-th expedition which succeed.
It was one of the most difficult first-ascensions of that time and
Russians showed a first-rate work. There were 11 alpinists who summited.
At that time the success of the team was considered incontestable
even if one or two of the group could reach the summit of the mountain.
The USSR became the third country of the World among ascended Everest.
During this jubilee year the magazine "EX" will certainly
pay attention to "the first" Everest. In this edition
you will find a story of ascension Everest by soviet alpinist wrote
by Vladimir Balyberdin.
problems of organization and holding of outdoor alpinists's actions."
In this article Sergei Shibaev tells about his experience (1990-2000) as a head of the alpinists's
training. For those who goes to the mountains for the first time
there's a useful advice from the series " What do you need
in mountains. Personal equipment."
3. "Ice-climbing in a pit (depression). Wrote by Vlad
Pupkov and Julia Gamarnik
from Perm. The place of a mine accident became a sport experimental
ground for Perm admirers of extreme. At the beginning of January
1986 there was an explosion of gas in one of the mines. A large
depression became a result of the explosion. In winter the walls
of the depression are covered with ice. Natural Ural ice-falls.
Soon this place was found and then occupied by ice-climbers....
SKA-5. 1980-1990. The whole alpinist team of the Leningrad
army club perished in a car accident in 1978. It happened near the
settlement Sary-Tash. After this tragedy the aim of making a new
team came up in the face of the club members. There might be a team
able to present the city of Leningrad at the USSR champonships in
alpinism. Victor Jak
tells about appearing a new team in his historical essay.
To Dych-Tau "by Mammery".The magazine "EX"
continues publishing pats from the
book of V. Ostrovsky. In this
edition we present hisstory about his personal ascent to Dych-Tau
(Bezengi region, 5204 m, the southwall route) in a duo with a person
who has buried his brother. The brother perished on the way to thesummit
of Dych-Tau. The partner V. Ostrovsky was A.Maleinov.
Anna Piunova from Ekaterinburg continues telling about the climbing stars. In
this edition perhaps one of the most famous climbers is presented.
One of those who creates history - Linn Hill. "She was brought
to the rocks by her sister. She helped to put on a harness, tied
up a knot and having given some instructions, "take magnesia,
rub your hands ant the rock with it", offered to climb.
The season which brought so much good for Russian ice-climbers is
finished. One of his main heroes, Dmitry
Bychkov, shares his impressions. Read "Cold
passions. Part 2". "The Canadian ice-tower is simple,
the simple routs - two passages. Many sportsmen failed during dry-tooling.
The holes were very trecherous. Certainly, Du Lack was sure of his
victory - he is always sure in himself. So in semi-final, almost
underneath, he managed to go beside the limits. He used to do such
things but never in the final of the Cup...Then Will Gad fell...On
the dry-tooling board there were three holds. Two of them were slopping,
the third at the very top had a very small hole and seemed to be
impossible for climbing. I passed it by. But I was really afraid
of slopping holds. Particularly I was afraid to load the first hold
- for several times the machine managed to slide down. But after
all I managed to climb difficult places. As for Will Gadd he took
the second hold and then has thrown himself down. I should say that
the board vibrates when you knock your leg in. Will knocked his
crampons and the beak jumped of the hold...".
Ural-Himalayas Spring". In the presentation of Alex
Myasnikov.Having decided the problem of conquering the Middle
Lhotse the Ural guys are unable to take their eyesoff the walls
of Everest. Over the last years the main problem is not in the lack
of experience and professionalism, in lack of money. The idea of
the Ural expedition was only once partly realized after the crises
in 1993. It was Talai-Sagar. At the moment the high sport potential
of alpinists can be realized only in common Russian expeditions.
The Ural sportsmen are welcomed there.
The festival "Vertical" - clash of
opinions.- Only mountains! Is it an everlasting topic? Only two
films about water.- Are these films about alpinism? Stuff: surfing,
jungles, sharks, whales... Is there something about mountains? These
are two opinions about the films of the 5-th festival "Vertical"
You ask who is right and whom is to believe? I will answer: believe
me, my dear reader
also: "The right choice of the wing" by A.Sobetov, The
laws of tourists's physics" By I.Gurevich, "Extreme girls"
and a lot of pother interesting things to read.