Nanga Parbat (8126 m), Broad Peak (8046 m) and K2 (8611 m) Kazakhstan Expedition
Summer 2003

expedition chronicle | members

"Kazakhstan project"

The Kazakhstan combined National team has already climbed 8 eighthousanders. This expedition is continuing the project.

The team will not use the supplementary oxygen during all climbs.

The expedition is under the patronage of Central Sport Army Club and Kazakhstan Mountain Club.


First time in the Kazakhstan Mountaineering history, there will be the the transmission of the expedition news - the live video will be on four TV channels in Kazakhstan: through the satellite net "Inmarsat". The live video will be provided by "KazTransCom", "Zharyk" and "M`art Production". TV time is guaranteed by "Khabar" agensy.

Zhunusov Baglan -
the head of expedition
Ervand Iljinsky -
the coach of the team


to read resumes - click on photo

Maxut Zhumayev (the leader)
Denis Urubko
Alexey Raspopov
Vassily Pivtsov
Serguey Lavrov
Vassily Litvinov
Damir Molgachev
Dmitry Chumakov

Foreign members of the expedition:

Simone Moro (Italy)Barbara Zwerger (Italy)Inaci Ochoa (Spain)Serguey Bogomolov (Russia)Ed Viesturs (USA)Jean Cristophe Lafaille (France)

Expedition chronicle

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address for letters to the expedition

PART 3. K2.

So, team-mates, who climbed two of three 8000-ers, which they planed this season, are ready to next adventures. There is K2 in front of them - in all it's magnificence. Kazakhstan team will begin K2 climb in alpine style after three days of rest. Simone and Inaki are going with them. Georgian Gia Tortladze joined the team.

10 August , 2003 Baglan Zhunusov, the head of the expedition:

Hello Guys!

I greet you with the completion of the expedition. You have done the great work, very few people in the whole World can do the same. You have proved that you're among the strongest climbers. You have enough energy, but mountain are mountain... But they'll stay and wait you...

Don't be upset, you will certainly come to this wonderful place next time. We will return here and do all we're planning. I wish you an easy way to home, where you beloveds are waiting you so long...

Almaty, August 9

Serguey Lavrov:

We're in the Base Camp, preparing to evacuation. Porters'll come tomorrow. Czechs are interested in our next year' plans - theu want to climb together with our team. Gia Tortladze is goimg to take part in Georgian Parliament election - he's a candidate. We'll send next dispatch from Skardu.

Bye, Lavrov and all team, August 10, noon.

8 August , 2003

An extra dispatch from K3 Base Camp:

August 8 - the team tried to reach Camp4 (7900 m) from Camp 3 (7300) during all the day - no success. Fragments from radio relations:

Mount: "There's too much snow, we can't touch ice and firn to organize the protection, we are very tired. Avalanches, not so big, appeared around us, and the fog is everywhere, visibility isn't enough... we're going down to Camp3 now..."

Base: " OK, decide by yourself, you can estimate the situation better..."

We understood that now the weather is going worse, it's snowing already in the Base Camp too. At last radio relation today the decision was assumed to descend to Camp 2 for both groups and to finish the expedition.

All climbers did their best, but The Mount didn't allow any expedition to climb her top this season.

(Dispatch from Baglan Zhunusov, August 8, 2-18 p.m. (7 p.m. Almaty time).


Baglan Zhunusov:

Today news from Iljinsky: both groups of Kazakhstan climbers (Bogomolov, Tortladze and one Czech plus) started from Base Camp August 5. Two other Czechs followed them August 6. Inaki Ochoa decided to return home August 6. He've become great friend of our team and hopes to join us in next expeditions.

Both groups reached Camp 3 (7400 m) August 7, they are going to climb up till Camp 4 (7900 m) August 8, and summit attempt August 9. Waiting this day!

Iljinsky has relations with the team at 8 a.m., 12 noon and 6 p.m. every day, the radio in Base Camp is constantly "on-line" for ocasion.

Iljinsky decided to order porters August 9 no matter the result of summit bid. Expedition will be finished August 10-12.

Baglan Zhunusov, August 7, 3-28 p.m.

5 August , 2003

Hi Lena, Pls forward our best wishes to the Kazakh K2 team and also tell them that we are working closely with the mets right now to try to make the weather reports as accurate as possible. If we could give them a weeks sunshine we truly would, your guys really deserve the summit! Hang in there - patience is often rewarded!

Tina & the crew, August 5, 0-20 a.m.

4 August , 2003 Serguey Lavrov:

Hi! We are OK, seat in the Base Camp, waiting weather. Read forecasts from Gia Tortladze is our guest now. This morning Canadians came up to pick out the gear from Camps. Only our and Czech expeditions still stay here.

Iljinsky asks Raspopov, who had graduated the University as a professional meteorologist, a lot of questions

We filled today the big accumulator of Andalusian expedition with the reserve electrolyte, hope it'll be enough till the end of the expedition.

August 2, 10-15 a.m.

2 August , 2003 Simone Moro leaves the expedition and returns home. Ciao, Simone!

31 July, 2003 Simone Moro: Today is a nice and sunny day without wind. The classic summit day....

30 July, 2003 Today's the Birthday of Dmitry Chumakov - he's 25 today!

29 July, 2003 Today's Denis' Birthday! He's 30 today! Ervand Iljinsky: The first group left Camp 4 and reached 8300 m, but was obliged to return

27 July, 2003 Andalusian team:This morning the International/Kazakh team left K2 Camp 4 (app. 7800 m) for a summit push.

26 July, 2003 Information from Andalusian site: yesterday evening Urubko, Zhumayev, Pivtsov and Chumakov reached Camp 3.

24 July, 2003 Ervand Iljinsky: today the K2 climb begins.

23 July, 2003 Serguey Lavrov: we've rested and begin to prepare for the main part of our expedition.

22 July, 2003 Simone Moro: mortal accident on K2

PART 2. BROAD PEAK. The climb chronicle

Impetuous climb didn't pass without adventures. The team helped JC Lafaille, who summited July 15 with Viesturs, Simone and Inaki, and then caught pulmonary problems at high altitude. Maxut Zhumayev, Vassily Pivtsov and Dmitry Chumakov summited Broad Peak July 16, Serguey Lavrov, Alexey Raspopov, Vassily Litvinov and Serguey Bogomolov - July 17. Denis Urubko - assisted Lafaille to descent to Base Camp July 16, next day he began his climb, and he standed at the top July 18. Pictures from Broad peak

PART 1. NANGA PARBAT. The climb chronicle.

After two weeks of preparing route, Kazakhstan team (7 members) and Serguey Bogomolov summited Nanga Parbat June 17 and 18.

Inaci Ochoa and Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner summited June 20. JC Lafaille and Ed Viesturs summited June 23. Denis Urubko: "Nanga Parbat"


May 27, 2003 Ervand Iljinsky, the coach of the expedition, chief coach of Army Sport Club (CSKA): interview for

May 22, 2003 The team is flying today from Almaty to Pakistan

May 21, 2003 Simone Moro: I' sure in the success of this project.

April 30, 2003 The team presentation

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