URUBKO (Almaty, Kazakhstan)
July 29 1973
1. 5/24/2000 - Everest
8848 without oxygen south normal route.
2. 5/23/2001 - Lhotse 8516
without oxygen normal route.
3. 8/13/2001 - Hidden Peak
(G1) 8068 without oxygen Japanese couloir.
4. 8/20/2001 - Gasherbrum
2 (8035) without oxygen normal route speed
ascent: from 5800 to top in 7 hours 30 minutes, and
back to 5800 in 4 hours.
5. 5/13/2002 - Kangchenjunga
(8586) classical SW-face route without
6. 10/25/2002 - Shisha
Pangma: Main(8046m) and Central(8012m) without oxygen
7. 06/17/2003 - Nanga
Parbat (8125 m) Kinshoffer route, without oxygen
8. 07/18/2003 - Broad
Peak (8046 m) normal route without oxygen
05/2004 - Annapurna
I (8091 m) night ascent
07/25/2005 - Broad
peak (8046 m), South-West Face first climb, two-climbers
team (Urubko- Samoilov), in alpine style
04/25/2006 - Manaslu
(8163 m). Normal route, two-climbers team (Urubko - Samoilov)
12. 05/08/2006 - Manaslu (8163 m) ne face first climb, two-members team (Urubko-Samoilov)
13. 02/05/2007 - Dhaulagiri. Normal route.
14. 02/10/2007 - K2, North-West ridge, Japanese route, two climbers team (Urubko - Samoilov)
15. 12/05/2008 - Makalu (8463 m)
16. 09/02/2009 - Makalu (8463 m) First Winter climb. In two-members team (Urubko - Moro)
17. May, 2009 Cho Oyu SE Face, first climb, alpine style, with Boris Dedeshko
18. May, 16, 2010 Lhotse (8516 m) new route from South Col, solo from C3.
Born July, 29 1973 in Russia in the North Caucasus. Lived for
a long period (1986-1990) in South Sakhalin with his family. lives
in Almaty (Kazakhstan) since 1990.
Under officer of the Central Sport Club of Kazakhstan Army
professional sportsman. Education actor, special sportivity,
Snow Leopard have climbed all 5 seventhousand peaks
of CIS(USSR), - in 42 days.
top of the World Everest without oxygen. Champion of Kasakhstan alpinism
climber of Kazakhstan in 1998 and 1999.
of Kazakhstan-97,98,99 in speed ascent to the Amangeldy peak (3999).
place in competition (1998,1999) of 2 kinds alpintechnical (the run to up (1 place)
and rock climbing).
World record in Elbrus speed climb (September, 14, 2006) 3 hrs 55 min 58 sec on the route Azau (2400) - Elbrus West top (5642 m)
32 climbs of Hi Top quality (CIS classification).
5 climbs on sixthousand peaks, 10 on seventhousand peaks,
the eightthousand peak.
34 climbs SOLO.
The best climbs
2010: Lhotse, new route from South Col, solo from C3, in extremely windy conditions
2009: Cho Oyu, SE Face, in duo with Boris Dedeshko, alpine style. Awarded by Piolet D'Or 2010 and Piolet D'Or Asia 2009
The First Winter climb to Makalu, In two-members team (Urubko - Moro) February, 9. Awarded by Eiger Award 2009.
2008: 12/05/2008 - Makalu (8463 m)
8 women-climbers Peak, Tien Shan, alpin style.
2007: K2, North-West ridge, two climbers team (Urubko - Samoilov)
Dhaulagiri. Normal route.
2006: Manaslu (8163 m) ne face first climb, two-members team (Urubko-Samoilov)
Broad peak SouthWest Face first climb, in alpine style, 2-members
Annapurna (8091 m) normal route without oxygen
Himal (new route via North Face)
peak - Winter ascent
Broad Peak (8046 m) normal route without oxygen
Parbat (8125 m), Kinshoffer route without oxygen
North Ridge (Winter Polish Expedition) - till 7750 m
Shisha Pangma - Main(8046m) and Central(8012m) without oxygen
Peak - Winner in the speed ascent competition
(8586) normal SW face route without oxygen
Lhotse (8516) normal route without oxygen
Peak (8068) japanese couloir without oxygen
(8035) normal route, speed ascent without oxygen
Podkova Tuyuksu 5 tops (4410) in winter teams leader,
Svobodnoy Korei peak (4740) N face in winter,
Everest (8848) classical route (Nepal) without oxygen,
Khan-Tengry peak (7010) N fase teams lider,
peak (7010) classical route Winner in the speed ascent competition.
1999: Svobodnoy Korei peak (4740) N face in winter teams leader,
Lenin peak (7134) classical route alpinstyle without acclimatization,
E.Korzhenevskaya peak (7105) classical route,
Communism peak (7495) classical route,
Khan-Tengry peak (7010)
peak (7439) classical route.
1998: A. Blok peak (5250) W face climbs leader.
1997: Mayakovskiy peak (4208) SW face SOLO.
1995: Mramornaya Stena peak (6400) traverse, Khan-Tengry peak (7010).
1994: Svobodnoy Korei peak (4740) N face, Uchitel peak (4045)
SW rib SOLO,
Stena peak (6400) classical route, RGO (6500) W rib.
1993: Mramornaya Stena peak (6400) classical route,
peak (7010) 2 times classical route,
peak N fase SOLO.
1992: Klyutchevskoy volcano (4850) SOLO in winter,
Main (5355) SOLO.
1991: Belukha Main (4506) SOLO.
URUBKO: STORY OF A BRAVE MOUNTAINEER WHO CAME FROM THE EAST -
interview for La Sportiva Magazine, February 2002
to the personalities list