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PERSONALITIES

DENIS URUBKO (Almaty, Kazakhstan)

Born July 29 1973

8000-ers:
1. 5/24/2000 - Everest 8848 without oxygen south normal route.
2. 5/23/2001 - Lhotse 8516 without oxygen normal route.
3. 8/13/2001 - Hidden Peak (G1) 8068 without oxygen Japanese couloir.
4. 8/20/2001 - Gasherbrum 2 (8035) without oxygen normal route speed
ascent: from 5800 to top in 7 hours 30 minutes, and back to 5800 in 4 hours.
5. 5/13/2002 - Kangchenjunga (8586) classical SW-face route
without oxygen
6. 10/25/2002 - Shisha Pangma: Main(8046m) and Central(8012m) without oxygen
7. 06/17/2003 - Nanga Parbat (8125 m) Kinshoffer route, without oxygen
8. 07/18/2003 - Broad Peak (8046 m) normal route without oxygen

9. 05/2004 - Annapurna I (8091 m) night ascent

10. 07/25/2005 - Broad peak (8046 m), South-West Face first climb, two-climbers team (Urubko- Samoilov), in alpine style

11. 04/25/2006 - Manaslu (8163 m). Normal route, two-climbers team (Urubko - Samoilov)

12. 05/08/2006 - Manaslu (8163 m) ne face first climb, two-members team (Urubko-Samoilov)

13. 02/05/2007 - Dhaulagiri. Normal route.

14. 02/10/2007 - K2, North-West ridge, Japanese route, two climbers team (Urubko - Samoilov)

15. 12/05/2008 - Makalu (8463 m)

16. 09/02/2009 - Makalu (8463 m) First Winter climb. In two-members team (Urubko - Moro)

17. May, 2009 Cho Oyu SE Face, first climb, alpine style, with Boris Dedeshko

18. May, 16, 2010 Lhotse (8516 m) new route from South Col, solo from C3.


Born July, 29 1973 in Russia in the North Caucasus. Lived for a long period (1986-1990) in South Sakhalin with his family. lives in Almaty (Kazakhstan) since 1990.

Under officer of the Central Sport Club of Kazakhstan Army – professional sportsman. Education – actor, special sportivity, cameraman.

Other highlights:

“Snow Leopard” – have climbed all 5 “seventhousand” peaks of CIS(USSR), - in 42 days.

The top of the World – Everest without oxygen. Champion of Kasakhstan alpinism 4 times.

Best climber of Kazakhstan in 1998 and 1999.

Champion of Kazakhstan-97,98,99 in speed ascent to the Amangeldy peak (3999).

Second place in competition (1998,1999) of 2 kinds alpintechnical (the run to up (1 place) and rock climbing).

World record in Elbrus speed climb (September, 14, 2006) 3 hrs 55 min 58 sec on the route Azau (2400) - Elbrus West top (5642 m)

Near 1500 climbs.
32 climbs of Hi Top quality (CIS classification).


5 climbs on “sixthousand” peaks, 10 on “seventhousand” peaks, 8 on
the “eightthousand” peak.


34 climbs SOLO.


The best climbs

2010: Lhotse, new route from South Col, solo from C3, in extremely windy conditions

2009: Cho Oyu, SE Face, in duo with Boris Dedeshko, alpine style. Awarded by Piolet D'Or 2010 and Piolet D'Or Asia 2009

The First Winter climb to Makalu, In two-members team (Urubko - Moro) February, 9. Awarded by Eiger Award 2009.

2008: 12/05/2008 - Makalu (8463 m)

8 women-climbers Peak, Tien Shan, alpin style.

2007: K2, North-West ridge, two climbers team (Urubko - Samoilov)

Dhaulagiri. Normal route.

2006: Manaslu (8163 m) ne face first climb, two-members team (Urubko-Samoilov)

2005: Broad peak SouthWest Face first climb, in alpine style, 2-members team.

2004: Annapurna (8091 m) normal route without oxygen

Kali Himal (new route via North Face)

Lenin peak - Winter ascent

2003: Broad Peak (8046 m) normal route without oxygen

Nanga Parbat (8125 m), Kinshoffer route without oxygen

K2, North Ridge (Winter Polish Expedition) - till 7750 m

2002: Shisha Pangma - Main(8046m) and Central(8012m) without oxygen

Lenin Peak - Winner in the speed ascent competition

Kangchenjunga (8586) normal SW face route without oxygen

2001: Lhotse (8516) normal route without oxygen

Hidden Peak (8068) japanese couloir without oxygen

GasherbrumII (8035) normal route, speed ascent without oxygen

2000: Podkova Tuyuksu 5 tops (4410) – in winter team’s leader,

Svobodnoy Korei peak (4740) – N face in winter,


Everest (8848) – classical route (Nepal) without oxygen,

Khan-Tengry peak (7010) – N fase team’s lider,

Khan-Tengry peak (7010) – classical route Winner in the speed ascent competition.


1999: Svobodnoy Korei peak (4740) – N face in winter team’s leader,


Lenin peak (7134) – classical route alpinstyle without acclimatization,

E.Korzhenevskaya peak (7105) – classical route,


Communism peak (7495) – classical route,

Khan-Tengry peak (7010) –
classical route,

Pobedy peak (7439) – classical route.


1998: A. Blok peak (5250) – W face climb’s leader.


1997: Mayakovskiy peak (4208) – SW face SOLO.


1995: Mramornaya Stena peak (6400) – traverse, Khan-Tengry peak (7010).


1994: Svobodnoy Korei peak (4740) – N face, Uchitel peak (4045) – SW rib SOLO,

Mramornaya Stena peak (6400) – classical route, RGO (6500) – W rib.


1993: Mramornaya Stena peak (6400) – classical route,

Khan-Tengry peak (7010) – 2 times – classical route,

Ordjonikidze peak – N fase SOLO.


1992: Klyutchevskoy volcano (4850) – SOLO in winter,

Ak-Su Main (5355) – SOLO.


1991: Belukha Main (4506) – SOLO.

DENIS URUBKO: STORY OF A BRAVE MOUNTAINEER WHO CAME FROM THE EAST - interview for La Sportiva Magazine, February 2002


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  Туры от arivik-reisen.ru/content/view/4248/. Отлично отдохнул