DENIS URUBKO (Almaty, Kazakhstan)

Born July 29 1973

8000-ers: 1. 5/24/2000 - Everest 8848 without oxygen south normal route. 2. 5/23/2001 - Lhotse 8516 without oxygen normal route. 3. 8/13/2001 - Hidden Peak (G1) 8068 without oxygen Japanese couloir. 4. 8/20/2001 - Gasherbrum 2 (8035) without oxygen normal route speed ascent: from 5800 to top in 7 hours 30 minutes, and back to 5800 in 4 hours. 5. 5/13/2002 - Kangchenjunga (8586) classical SW-face route without oxygen 6. 10/25/2002 - Shisha Pangma: Main(8046m) and Central(8012m) without oxygen 7. 06/17/2003 - Nanga Parbat (8125 m) Kinshoffer route, without oxygen 8. 07/18/2003 - Broad Peak (8046 m) normal route without oxygen 9. 05/2004 - Annapurna I (8091 m) night ascent 10. 07/25/2005 - Broad peak (8046 m), South-West Face first climb, two-climbers team (Urubko- Samoilov), in alpine style 11. 04/25/2006 - Manaslu (8163 m). Normal route, two-climbers team (Urubko - Samoilov) 12. 05/08/2006 - Manaslu (8163 m) ne face first climb, two-members team (Urubko-Samoilov) 13. 02/05/2007 - Dhaulagiri. Normal route. 14. 02/10/2007 - K2, North-West ridge, Japanese route, two climbers team (Urubko - Samoilov)

Born July, 29 1973 in Russia in the North Caucasus. Lived for a long period (1986-1990) in South Sakhalin with his family. lives in Almaty (Kazakhstan) since 1990.

Under officer of the Central Sport Club of Kazakhstan Army – professional sportsman. Education – actor, special sportivity, cameraman.

Other highlights:

“Snow Leopard” – have climbed all 5 “seventhousand” peaks of CIS(USSR), - in 42 days.

The top of the World – Everest without oxygen. Champion of Kasakhstan alpinism 4 times.

Best climber of Kazakhstan in 1998 and 1999.

Champion of Kazakhstan-97,98,99 in speed ascent to the Amangeldy peak (3999).

Second place in competition (1998,1999) of 2 kinds alpintechnical (the run to up (1 place) and rock climbing).

World record in Elbrus speed climb (September, 14, 2006) 3 hrs 55 min 58 sec on the route Azau (2400) - Elbrus West top (5642 m)

Near 1500 climbs.
32 climbs of Hi Top quality (CIS classification).

5 climbs on “sixthousand” peaks, 10 on “seventhousand” peaks, 8 on
the “eightthousand” peak.

34 climbs SOLO.

The best climbs

2007: K2, North-West ridge, two climbers team (Urubko - Samoilov)

Dhaulagiri. Normal route.

2006: Manaslu (8163 m) ne face first climb, two-members team (Urubko-Samoilov)

2005: Broad peak SouthWest Face first climb, in alpine style, 2-members team.

2004: Annapurna (8091 m) normal route without oxygen

Kali Himal (new route via North Face)

Lenin peak - Winter ascent

2003: Broad Peak (8046 m) normal route without oxygen

Nanga Parbat (8125 m), Kinshoffer route without oxygen

K2, North Ridge (Winter Polish Expedition) - till 7750 m

2002: Shisha Pangma - Main(8046m) and Central(8012m) without oxygen

Lenin Peak - Winner in the speed ascent competition

Kangchenjunga (8586) normal SW face route without oxygen

2001: Lhotse (8516) normal route without oxygen

Hidden Peak (8068) japanese couloir without oxygen

GasherbrumII (8035) normal route, speed ascent without oxygen

2000: Podkova Tuyuksu 5 tops (4410) – in winter team’s leader,

Svobodnoy Korei peak (4740) – N face in winter,

Everest (8848) – classical route (Nepal) without oxygen,

Khan-Tengry peak (7010) – N fase team’s lider,

Khan-Tengry peak (7010) – classical route Winner in the speed ascent competition.

1999: Svobodnoy Korei peak (4740) – N face in winter team’s leader,

Lenin peak (7134) – classical route alpinstyle without acclimatization,

E.Korzhenevskaya peak (7105) – classical route,

Communism peak (7495) – classical route,

Khan-Tengry peak (7010) –
classical route,

Pobedy peak (7439) – classical route.

1998: A. Blok peak (5250) – W face climb’s leader.

1997: Mayakovskiy peak (4208) – SW face SOLO.

1995: Mramornaya Stena peak (6400) – traverse, Khan-Tengry peak (7010).

1994: Svobodnoy Korei peak (4740) – N face, Uchitel peak (4045) – SW rib SOLO,

Mramornaya Stena peak (6400) – classical route, RGO (6500) – W rib.

1993: Mramornaya Stena peak (6400) – classical route,

Khan-Tengry peak (7010) – 2 times – classical route,

Ordjonikidze peak – N fase SOLO.

1992: Klyutchevskoy volcano (4850) – SOLO in winter,

Ak-Su Main (5355) – SOLO.

1991: Belukha Main (4506) – SOLO.

DENIS URUBKO: STORY OF A BRAVE MOUNTAINEER WHO CAME FROM THE EAST - interview for La Sportiva Magazine, February 2002

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