Kazakhstan Expedition (8163 м)
Central Sport Club of Kazakhstan Army
Mountaineering Federation of Almaty City
Almaty Rescue Service (051)
Kazakhstan Natinal Mountaineering Faderation
Equipment - North Face
equipment - RedFox
goal - new route in alpine style on Manasly peak.
Denis Urubko and Serguey Samoilov (Kazakhstan)
9 May, 2006 They're back in the Base Camp. SMS 11-00 a.m. (Moscow time): We're are back in BC. Thanks to all, who followed our climb. We congratulate all with this great day - May, 9 - Victory Day.
8 May 2006 Today evening Denis and Serguey summited Manaslu!
SMS 6-00 p.m. (Moscow time):Summit at 6-30 p.m. We're safe and sound, set the tent at the plateau 7600.
6 May, 2006 SMS 4-30 p.m. (Moscow time): We climbed till about 7250 m. Stoped in a safe place under the serak. We're very tired but fine.
SMS 7-30 a.m. (Moscow time): We climbed till 6800 and are going to work further today. The weather's fine. Probably, there wouldn't connection today evening, don't worry.
5 May, 2006 SMS 0-30 p.m. and 4-50 p.m. (Moscow time): climbed till 6500. Very difficult snow conditions, the weather's extremely bad. "We work untill 3 p.m., then the bad weater begins and we fall from our legs. Greetings to the Russianclimb reders and TNF company.
4 May, 2006 SMS 11-00 a.m. (Moscow time): We climbed till 6000. The camp place is safe. The slope is as better as higher. Tomorrow we're going to reach 7000 m. There we'll be closed by the Mountain, so there would'not connection with you or the Base Camp. All's OK".
2 May, 2006 SMS 3-00 p.m. (Moscow time): We're in the Base Camp again. Want to climb Manaslu again. Probably, we'll start in Thirsday. We're tired but sure in our success.
29 April, 2006 SMS 6-00 a.m. (Moscow time): We rested in the Base Camp and today will go down to Samagaon.
Urubko: we'll rest 5-6 days, and then will try to climb Manaslu
one more time.
at the Base Camp after the descent in the fog along the icefalls.
We're excited by this alpine-style Manaslu climb. I think, this
season has a nice beginning. It's a question what to do next? Our
friends here say that we climbed the new variant of the normal route
- Kazakhs. It looks like that - but it's a result of our lasiness:
we simply prefered the optimal line from 6500 till 7500 :)
summited at 11-45 a.m. (Nepal time). Back to the tent at 7450 we
descended a hour ago.
We're at 7450m! Heading to the summit - we'll decide looking to
the night weather.
needed the weather forecast - Alexander Chechulin from Almaty wrote
to Russianclimb about it. So, I immediately wrote to Italy to Barbara
Zwerger (Simone Moro's wife) and asked her to help with it. Barbara
called to Carl Gabl in Insbruck - he usually help Simone with the
forecasts). Carl's so kind - he returned to his office, recorded
the forecast and sent it to Barbara, then she forwarded it to me.
That's a good example of international cooperation! Thanks to all!
wrote: Carl Gabl everytime did perfect forecasts for Simone,
Denis can trust 100%.
Tomorrow probably in the morning good, but in the afternoon cumulus
also some snow, but he can not say how much.
There are no jet-streams over - wind about 40-50 km/h
Same for the next 2-3 days
Than it will became worse, because of more cumulus.
danger is in:
- The fog, when arrive the cumulus v for loosing the way back....
Gretings! We reached 7000. We've tired as much as could - such hard
work is not good for the duo. We'll rest - and then decide if go
tomorrow - to the BC or to 7500. The weather's good enough, and
we've food and gas.
We're ahead again - why? what for? WE have found the good way, but
there's no good place for the camp - avalanche danger slope. We've
caught snow at 6400. No visibility. SEt our tent between two crevasses.
Horhe and Peter helped us, but then descended to Camp 1.
3-30 p.m. (Moscow
We reached C1. THe weather's fine, but avalanche danger is high.
Tomorrow we'll try to climb till C2. Greetings!
We're very slow, but accrding to the plan. Tomorrow we'll third
time go to C1, and will try to climb further.
16 , 2006 Denis Urubko, SMS
11-20 (Moscow time): We're not Serguey and Den - we're BADJO and
DAY. On Nepalese it means "Father" and "brother".
Inaki learned "to work today" om RUssian. They climbed
500 m couloir above C1. The weather's extremely bad.
14 , 2006 Denis Urubko, SMS 12-50 (Moscow time): We descended
to BC. The way to C1 is acceptable, pity that it's covered by snow
again and again. We're waiting the weather. All are ready to go
up, but I and Samoilov will rest.
12 , 2006 SMS from Urubko (1-50 p.m Moscow time): I and Serguey
Samoilov managed to reach C1 at 5700 m. We're extremely tired! Huge
amounts of snow! The route, as it is, begins from this point. THe
weather's very-very bad, but SErguey took salt fish with him, so
we eat it and drink tea. Greetings to all!
10, 2006 Manaslu Base Camp. 00-06 p.m. (Moscow time) SMS from
Urubko: Our today push was burried by half - a - meter snow layer,
visibility 30 m only. I play poker with Russian- Georgian alliance.
My training here - fast running up on 50-m trail to the hill top
near BC - 10 times per day. The weather's very bad, we clean our
tents from the now again and again. My tel number is +8821671101941.
When we are in BC, everybody can call us from 4 till 5 p.m. (Nepal
time). We'll be glad to hear you!
8 Denis Urubko called at 5 p.m. (Moscow time): We are all here
- me, Serguey, Serguey Bogomolov, Gia, Inaki and Peter. Greetings
from all! We share BC. All are OK, but it's very cold! - there's
Inaki - he's cold in his down suit! Here's only 4700, but it's colder
than usually at 5000. It's snowing
hard. I and Serguey Samoilov will climb normal route with guys,
and after it we'll try another route from the other side of Manaslu.
Our greetings to Boris Korshunov - we're belive in him! And in all
their team! Simone stayed the boots for Korshunov in Cho Oyu Trekking
office in Kathmandu.
7 Denis Urubko, SMS: We arrived to the Base Camp at 4700 m.
All are OK, but I'm
sick after our cook's dinner. We're first here in this season. There's
no too much snow, and Inaki worked first on the trail - he hasn't
alowded anybody to help him. Greetings to all!
5 We're in time to left Kathmandu! Today we're flying
wrote from Kathmandu: Hi! We are solving all organizing
problems here, buy food and other things. Samoilov has bought the
very strange pants - locals are seing to him with great interest..
Here's quite - very few tourists in Tamel, all prices are decreased
compared to 2000. We'll start on April, 5 to Samagaon by heli, so,
we'll reach base camp April, 7. Bogomolov and Gia Tortladze will
ariive tomorrow. As say Inaki Ochoa and Peter (our expedition members)-
all of them are obliged to speak Russian by the expedition end.
At the first lesson (I was a teacher) Inaki learned the phrase "I'm
not a crazy" on Russian. Tomorrow I'll check if he remembers
it still. Good bye!
March, 24 - Press conference in Almaty
for the project:
Winter Almaty mountaineering Championship. Urubko was a member of
the team, which became the Winner. Samoilov - the coach.
Mramornaya Stena winter climb, 5a, alpine style, extremely fast.
Urubko, Samoilov were members of the team.
Spring Rock Championship of Almaty. Urubko was 4th in multi cups,
and 1st in rock climbing party races.