Koshelenko and Iljas Tukhvatullin: Gaurishankar or Menlungtse North
Koshelenko and Iljas Tuhvatullin plan to make an attempt of climb
in the Alpine style one of Northern walls Gaurishankar and Menlungtse
in Tibet. Rough dates of expedition - from the beginning of April
to the end of May 2005.
when, apparently all is known already about everything, there are
some mountains in the world densely covered by a secret. There are
few remote tops: Gaurishankar (7134i), Menlungtse (7181i) are in
one list with Nuptse, Jannu, Chomolontso, Masherbrum, Ogre. The
climbs of any of these mountains always become important event in
the world of mountaneering; climber's successes on these mountains
are extremely rare, they are very difficult and significant.
area of Gaurishankar and Menlungtse in Nepal is Rolualing, and in
Tibet - Rongshar (comparing to the next area Solo - Khumbu, it is
strongly closed territory without appreciable traces of presence
of modern influences of a civilization).
Northern, Tibetan walls of both tops, according to the famous British
mountaneer Chris Bonington, are now delicate problems of the Himalayas.
It means, that walls are not conquered, and an attempt to climb
them is the complex problem combining set of unknown factors. Especially
serious can be the climb in the pure Alpine style, as modern standard
of quality in mountaneering ", - explained the ideological
leader of the project Jury Koshelenko.
before topographical seach of Everest, was considered as the mount
number one in the world. Long time the authority of Nepal did not
permit climbs on this mountain, sacred for Buddhists and induists.
Only in 1979 American John Roskelli and Nepalese Dordzhe Sherpa
for the first time have climbed Gaurishankar Southwest Face.
first ascent on Menlungtse Main - 1992 by Slovenians Andrej Stremfelj
and Marco Prezlj. South-East Face. An attempt of the North Face
by - Karlos Buhler in 1999: reached 5800.
goal of the project: the expedition to Gaurishankar and Menlungtse
area (from Tibet, gorge Rongshar and Menlung), research of area
and Northern walls of both tops, and climb attempt of one of them
in Alpine style by the small group. The length of both walls of
the highest grade of difficulty is 2500 - 3000 m.
Tukhvatullin: the Intrigue that we'll climb together, the
North Face which nobody saw. It's wild area, open to Nepal - only
Yeti wander there; urgently we search for a phrase book for the
speaking with them :-)
Koshelenko: the idea of this project for the first time
has visited me in June last year. In one of the book-stores in Kathmandu
I have seen a card with a picture of Gaurishankar South Face (contrary
to Elizabeth Hawley's statistics, it has been climbed in 1984 by
the Slovenian team in obsidional Himalaya style). * North Face of
mountain was not seen by anybody. There are very few unclimbed walls
in the world, and someone should climb it.
sponsor of the project: Industrial Union " Novoje Sodruzhestvo"
Gear sponsor: BASK.
Expedition requires the support of other sponsors.
I think, Yuri Koshelenko made a mistake concerning the Himalayan
chronicles of Miss Hawley. The then-Yugoslavian team, led by Slavko
Cankar, climbed a part of the South Face of Gaurishankar, then joined
the first ascent route of the South-Peak on SW ridge and finished
at the South Peak (6983 m), but were not traversing to the Main-Peak.
This is known and not contrary to Miss Hawley and the few other
Himalayan chroniclers since a long time. Moreover it was in 1983,