Khan Tengri North Face - First ascent in two-members team.

September, 1 2005 Pavel Shabalin called from Bishkek:

We're OK. Exept some my frostbites (foots and fingers). Together with Iljas we climbed Khan Tengri North Face (Central part). Yuri Moiseev says that it 's the first successful climb on the North Face in duo after 6 attempts.

We started August, 20. Hoped to climb the route in 5 days. We went via combination of routes Studenin (bottom part) - Myslovsky (middle part) and Zakharov (summit bastion via chimney). We reached "the roof" only August, 28 - because of bad weather (we were sitting one day) and one day we had to mend our stove.

Summited August, 29 and went down to the col the same day.

In BC we were August, 30.

We are very pleased to our sponsors - RedFox and Camp (Alpine Trade),

and Aksai-Travel company (especially for Elena Kalashnikova, who managed, together with Kazbek Valiev and Yuri Moiseev, to hold the last heli back flight from BC for two days - so ve came back lucky to civilization. And much greetings to heli crew, of course!!!

Pavel Shabalin. September, 1


Photo of Khan Tengri North Face with Shabalin-Tukhvatullin route line courtesy of Nickolay Zakharov (Krasnoyarsk), the coach of Krasnoyarsk team.