Parbat (8126 m), Broad Peak (8046 m) and K2 (8611 m) Kazakhstan Expedition
July, 2003 This morning news: Denis Urubko
has just summited Broad Peak and now he's descending to Camp 3. The
first group reached Base CAmp, the second - Camp 2. Ervand Iljinsky said, that
team will rest three days and then will begin K2 climb. Our
congratulations to Denis and all the team!
July 17, at 10-00am (Almaty time) the second group of Kazakhstan team summited
Broad Peak - Serguey Lavrov, Alexey Raspopov, Vassily Litvinov and Serguey Bogomolov.
Denis helped French climber to reach Base CAmp and now he's going to Camp3 for
the summit bid.
French alpinist, who was rescued on Broad Peak, was JC Lafaille - Simone Moro
wrote yesterday. Lafaille had pulmonary problems after the summit, and couldn't
descend to the Base Camp without help. Denis and Ed Viesturs went with him till
the BC, then Lafaille, Katja, Magliano and Viesturs went to Skardu via helicopter.
Simone and Inaki will climb K2 with the Kazakhstan team.
July, 2003 Rescue on the Broad Peak.
16 Maxut Zhumayev, Vassily Pivtsov and Dmitry Chumakov summited Broad Peak at
10 am (Almaty time). Congratulations!
All night before the summit bid the first group ( Urubko, Zhumayev, Pivtsov and
Chumakov) tried to save the life of French climber in Camp3 (7200 m). Than the
team decided that three of them will go to the summit, but Denis Urubko will began
to descend with French alpinist, who felt very bad. The second group are going
to Camp 3 and can help Denis if it'll need.
Zhunusov, July 16, 8-54 am
don't know the details yet, exept Denis again (in the third time already!) helps
climber, who's on the border between life and death, come back from the 8000-er.
The first time it was on Lhotse in 2001, when Denis
helped Anna Czervinska, the famous Polish woman-climber, to descent from Lhotse
slope, where she and her Sherpa couldn't descent by themselves. Then, this
winter, during K2 ascension, it was very dangerous situation on 7750, where Denis
and Marcin Kaczkan spent night in the small tent. They were going to summit next
day. (Polish K2 Winter Expedition) But
in the morning Marcin felt extremely bad, and Den had to descent with him. Nobody
could help them on the Mount, exept injured Wielicki 0,5 km below, who boiled
a cup of water for Marcin, but have burned the tent... And now - Denis again refused
from his summit chance to save the life of other alpinist. It's very hard and
dangerous work - to rescue at the high alitude. It's luck, that all the team is
on the route this time - hope, all'll be OK. And maybe Denis'll find enough energy
to speed climb to Broad, which he dreams so much about. If the Chief should allow