JANNU North Face(7710 m)
Peak of Terror
Mystery Peak
Main unsolved problem of Himalaya.

Unclimbed Wall became a fixed idea for Russian climbers. The team led by Odintsov is going to conquer it.


The climb.

Part 1 Icefall.

16 September, 2003 Mikhail Mikhailov was delivered to the hospital in Kathmandu by the helicopter, he's out of danger. It was occured due to the skill and courage of Russian pilot, Victor Kolesnikov, who was the crew commander on the helicopter, which landed at the difficult weather conditions at 5100 m to take Mikhail. Expedition is continuing.

13 September, 2003 Odintsov called in morning, 6 a.m., and said that yesterday, at 5 p.m. (Nepali time) at 5100 m Mikhail Mikhailov was covered by ice avalanche on the icefall. He was injured, has some fractures. Now it's the broblem to transport him down.

Ivan Samoilenko write later that helicopter may come tomorrow and catch out guys from 5100. Team members are in turn with Mikhail, take him anaesthetic medicines.

12 September, 2003 Mikhail Davy:

Two days ago we wrote that were going up by all the team for some days, but life corrects our plans.

Me, Odintsov and Pershin spent night at the Base Camp again. Trio Ruchkin - Mikhailov - Totmjanin went 16 pitches at the icefall and returned to the tent, which was set by Odintsov and Pershin at the bottom of the icefall. Alexey and me brought loads (ropes and equipment) as high as we could along the fixed ropes.

But the icefall appeared more difficult than we thought. In result, the vanguard trio and Bolotov climbed up with loads to the end of fixed ropes, and worked two ropes more, but met huge crevasses, which couldn't being climbed. The only decision was to went down to the eighth pitch and to find another way on the icefall. They'll do it tomorrow, but today they spend night at the little plain place at the icefall, which is out of danger. At the other side (the right part of the icefall) it seems that all ice have fallen down clearing the rock. We remember from the report and the film of Uzbek Expedition, they climbed by the right side, but there's clear rock now, and next and next portion of ice is falling down every five minutes. I'm going to climb by the opposite slope of the valley tomorrow, and will correct guys by the radio.

In the Base Camp all are OK, doctor Bakin has given the interview for TV by the sat phone today, Igor went down to Gunza for the fresh meat.

All of us send greetings to our relatives and friends, and to all who are in touch.

Mikhail Davy, September11, 7-23 p.m.

11 September, 2003 Alexander Odintsov from the Base Camp:

Trio Ruchkin - Totmjanin - Mihkailov left Base Camp at 6-30 a.m. and they were near the icefall about 8-30. Other members left Base at 9-30. Icefall is very dangerous part of the route now - ice is in bad conditions. Bolotov and Davy are planning to prepare more steep and more difficult but less dangerous way along rocks tomorrow, istead of icefall. We couldn't reach 5400 today and returned to the Base Camp. The weather's bad, it's rain and snow every day. Jannu North Face is white, covered by snow

Odintsov, September 10, 5-49 p.m.

10 September, 2003 Alexander Ruchkin from the Base Camp:

Hi, friends! September 8, after 7 hours of trekking from Gunza we reached our Base Camp at the bottom of Jannu at 4500 m. Jannu is like mirage, it appeares through the fog, then diappeares. The weather's not fine, it's rainy after dinner.
September 9,
we consecrated our BC, hanged the Nepali prayer flags, made the donnation for Gods.

We also lifted sacred sponsor's flags, and winds are plaing by them. Winds are whispering the prayers, which are coming to the Gods. We need good luck and good weather...
All day we are preparing equipment to our first push to the Mount, which'll be tomorrow.
September 10 me and Mikhailov are going to work at the icefall and reach plateau at 5400 m. All team will bring loads ang set Camp at plateau. Then we'll work according the weather.
Hope it'll be fine.

Alexander Ruchkin, September 9, 7-29 p.m.


Main expedition page


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