JANNU North Face(7710 m)
Peak of Terror
Mystery Peak

Unclimbed Wall became a fixed idea for Russian climbers. The team led by Odintsov is going to conquer it.



Part3. The Wall.

12 October, 2003 Alexander Ruchkin from the Base Camp;

Greetings Friends, it seems the Monsoon comes, and it's more difficulty to struggle with it from day to day. If in Base Camp which at 4600 m, drop out 30sm snows, since 5000 m, snows knee-deep and above. Our fixed ropes were buried by plentiful snowfall which did not stop almost three days. On not an abrupt slope filled up with a snow, we go on traces. They deep and to drop out of them it is hard, there fixed ropes are not necessary. And where abruptly, avalanches are rolled unpredictable and it becomes dangerous to slip. Many forces are spent for overcoming of a snow. It's useless to struggle with the nature in general, and with a monsoon especially. It was solved to preserve, the equipment on mountain, which the weather has not preserved. And to not stop on achieved, to continue in the spring. It is pity, but the expedition is turned off. It is a photo of our Base Camp, as you can see, it's already the Winter there, and therefore, we mould snowmen, we have become bored and prepare for a meeting of new year. And if seriously, the expedition is turned off, and it is transferable for spring of the next year.

12 October, 2003 As locals say, all keep silence, when Kumbhakarna says...

Ivan Samoilenko:

I've spoken to Odintsov by phone. They have a problem with Internet again. All team is in the Base Camp. The snowfall is continuing the fifth day, there are 40 sm of fresh snow in the Base Camp. The mountain around are rumbling, looks like a war...

On the photo - party at 6500. You can imagine what's here in 1,5 m of fresh snow! Igor said that back trek from the Base Camp won't be safety: we have to traverse 700 m of slope with very deep snow. We have the forecast that October11 will be dry weather - we'll ascend and look at our fixed ropes, and then will decide what to do.




Doctor Bakin

9 October, 2003 Ivan Samoilenko:

I have to say something. This Mount isn't a girl named Jannu, but demon named Kumbhakarna! Nobody from our team had seen so stable bad weather before. We are swimming in the fresh snow instead of climbing, forcing of snow rivers and playing in Russian roulette with avalanches. Look at the photo (made in September 29)...At the left - one of the everyday avalanches.

Ruchkin called yesterday from the Base Camp, and said that all team descended to the Base Camp for the rest. There are strong snowfalls on the Mount, and guys desided to wait the end of snowfalls in the Base.

8 October, 2003 Ivan Samoilenko, camera-man of the team, has returned home to Saint Petersburg today morning. We have talked shortly about conditions at the route, detailed information will be soon.

The Wall is covered by snow, no clean rocks, borderless snow... It lies on the vertical rocks... Any ascend through this snow is very hard, it's the battle. The Wall is covered by shadows all the time. Cold, dampness... Do you remember the book by Gram Dingle "Wall of Shadows"? So, the members of the team live in shadows all period of the climb - and it's not pleasant. But they have a lot of energy and continue the climb.




Some pictures from the expedition:

Descent to the plateau

Camp at 6200 m


Alexander Odintsov

7 October, 2003 The first party is already at 7200 m. It's very cold on the Wall, like in Winter - said Alexander Odintsov in radio interview from Jannu North Face today. Problems with sat phone were solved.

5 October, 2003 Alexander Odintsov is in Gunza yet, his hand is in plaster of Paris now, but he hopes to put it off soon and to join the team, which have already set the Camp at 7000 m.

There will be his "alive" radio interview this Tuesday for S-Petersburg journalists. (time and frequency will be confirmed soon).

Ivan Samoilenko, camera-man, who is in Kathmandu now, called his wife and said that guys has a lot of energy yet, and the team works very effectively. He will send pictures and video in nearest days.

Anna Stolbova, press-secretary of the team, October5, 2-44 p.m.

Main expedition page


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