29
May , 2003 Alexander
Abramov reports: "29
May. Today is 50 years from the first ascension to the summit of Everest. All
the team gathered in the kitchen in the morning. Suddenly
at 9.40 Sergey Larin reported very sprightly: "I am standing at the summit
of Everest and setting the flag of our country". Our exertion was
developed into general rejoicing. Our team celebrated the anniversary triumphal.
The field day finished for us symbolically. Two months of hard and exhausting
work have brought us victory. We are descending to the BC, where we are going
to wait for Sergey Larin. After that all expedition is going to Katmandu. In Katmandu
30 best Russian climbers will meet us. This meeting will be wonderful. The team
is full of enthusiasm and further plans of new summits.
It is the end of the
message,
Bye"
"28
May. The team of Alpindustria is trying to storm the summit of Everest again.
Sergey Larin is making desperate attempt of ascension. He is at 8300m now, Sergey
reported about the attempt to reach the summit at night today. There are no climbers
except him on the mountain. The wind is blowing dangerously. Sergey is an experienced
climber and if the weather does not change he will not jeopardize his life. About
36 yaks have been gone to the ABC already. Elagin and Litinskiy descended to the
ABC.
We wish Sergey Larin good luck!
It is the end of the message,
Bye"
28
May , 2003 Alexander
Abramov reports: "27
May. The banner of Alpindustria was set on the summit of Everest. Elagin and Gudjabidze
ascended to the summit.
This success pertains to all the members of our expedition. Everest has proved
us one more time how it is difficult and severe. Such bad weather has not been
for many years. Gudjabidze descended to the ABC.
It is the end of the message,
Bye"
27
May , 2003 Alexander
Abramov reports: 26
May. North, squally wind ruins all our hopes to subdue Everest. We are waiting
for the news from the camp at 8300m. The tents are jumping in the ABC and we are
afraid the tents can be blown away. At 12 o'clock was the connection with Sergeev.
He reported the wind at 7700m was very cold and strong. It was impossible to climb
up so he made the decision to descend. Sergey Larin was ascending from the North
Col to the camp at 7500m. Sergeev met Larin and gave him portable radio transmitter
because Larin had lost his. At 18.00 Larin was at 7700m and decided to spend the
night there in the tent of Saint Petersburg expedition. The expedition of Saint
Petersburg had left Everest already. At 22.00 the leader of Italian expedition
visited Larin and informed he had seen the Russian climbers at 8300 and they were
waiting for the good weather. We have been informed that Lakpa Gelu Sherpa held
the new record yesterday. It had taken him only ten hours and forty minutes on
the southward to get from the BC (5300m) to the summit.
It is the end of the
message,
Bye"
26
May , 2003 Alexander
Abramov reports: 25
May. ¦1 message. The weather has not become well, the wind is strong and none
of expeditions are working there. Sherps are carrying all the things down. Tinkling
of bells is heard all over there are a lot of yaks. The connection was at 10 o'clock
in the morning. Gudjabidze, Elagin and Litinskiy ascended from 7500m to 7900m
and they are ready to climb at 8300m tomorrow. I advised them to climb 8300m today
and ascend the summit tomorrow. The Day of Independence of Georgia will be tomorrow
and Bidzina dreamed to ascend the summit on this important day for him. The connection
was at 12 o'clock. Sergeev and sherp ascended from 7000m to 7900m and they were
valid to climb at 7900m but there were three persons already at 7900m. Sergeev
is 67 years old and if he ascends the summit Sergeev will become the oldest person
in the history of Everest. Sergey Larin gathered his rucksack and went to the
North Col and wanted to ascend the summit alone.
Only our expedition "Alpindustria"
is working on the mountain. Other expeditions refused to ascend the summit and
went away.
¦2
message. Gudjabidze reported that they went to the camp at 8300m in the dark and
they were trying to find the tent and oxygen cylinders. I explained them there
to find all the necessary things. They are ascending to the summit at night today.
God be with you! Abramov and Pushkarev are going to try the ascension to the summit
tomorrow. We are planning, 26, May - 7500m, 27,May - 8300m, and if the weather
is fine the ascension to the summit will be on the 28th of May. It is possible
that will be problems with the messages. We ask you not to worry and hope for
the best.
24
May. Our team (Abramov, Pushkarev, Tzarev and Kaimachnikov) worked rapidly and
operated such unbelievable work content that many other climbers were surprised.
21 May. Our two sherps have become ill. The weather is rather bad. We have installed
the camp at 7900m. We ascended from 7500m to 7900m with oxygen cylinders, found
the area for our camp and installed the camp. It is 17.00; because of the shortage
of water we have sore throat and the oxygen dry it. According to the forecast
the weather today at night and tomorrow will be fine. We made the decision to
go further and install the camp at 8300m. It needs usually one day. We have four
hours and a half before the darkness. We started at 17.15 and began to use three
liters oxygen in a minute. It was too difficult to go and our team ascended the
camp at 8300m in the dark. This mountainside has the rake of 25degree. All suitable
area for the tents was occupied. We were gasping for a drink, but there was no
shelter to boil the water and find protection from the shrill wind. We had to
rake the frozen stones with the help of our hands. Suddenly the oxygen cylinder
passed us very closely. At about 100 climbers gathered there.
We tried to make
the stone platform for the tents at about one hour and a half. It was - 30C of
frost. It was 1 o'clock at night when we fell into the tent. The sleeping begs
were not taken we hoped to spend night burning gas-jets and melting water. But
all the members fell asleep in the tent. We got up at 3 o'clock, melted the water
about 200gr per man and were ready at 5 o'clock in the morning to ascend the summit.
The lights of climbers were seen throughout the rout. The dawn caught us at
the height of 8500m. Our team climbed the crest at 8600m. The rout was traced
with ropes and ready to ascension. The first barrier was the wall and 20 climbers
on it we had to wait for our turn at about one hour. Suddenly the weather changed,
snow began to fall down and the strong wind became stronger. We came up to the
second step at 8700m there were 30 climbers ascending very slowly. The summit
was not seen because of the snow. I remembered the ascension in 1996 only 11 persons
were able to stay there because of the weather worsening. I am responsible for
the people it was a pity but I had to turn my team back. We started to climb down
and some other expeditions ascended down with us. The probability of death and
ascension were equal this day. All the members of our team got huge experience
this day in spite of slight chilblain. We reached the height of 8700m. 24 May.
Moskalev, Soipher, Litinskiy, Elagin and Gudjabize are expecting the good weather.
Larin and Pashkov are in the ABC.
It is the end of the message,
Bye"
21
May , 2003 Alexander
Abramov reports: 20
May. According to the weather forecast the strong wind blows from the morning.
The crowd of people is ascending slowly for five, six steps in a minute it is
too difficult to breath in. The passage to 7500m is complicated and long enough.
It is cold and strong wind is blowing. We have met our sherps, they could not
install the camp at 8300m again. So we have to ask the other expeditions for the
tents at 8300m. Sherps from the other expeditions have been carrying oxygen cylinders
and tracing ropes all week. The workmanship of our sherps is poor. Three persons
from Japan, three sherps and one Englishman have ascended to the summit today.
Abramov, Pushkarev, Tzraev and Kaimachnikov are at 7500m now. Moskalev, Soipher,
Elagin and Gudjabidze have gone from the ABC to the North Col. They are following
us.
It is the end of the message,
Bye
20
May , 2003 Alexander
Abramov reports: "19,
May. Abramov, Pushkarev, Tzarev and Kaimachnikov went from the ABC at about 12
o'clock. It took them three hours and a half to get to the North Col. The weather
is perfect, the wind is not strong but with gusts. At about 100 people have ascended
to the North Col. We are planning the ascension to the summit on the 22nd of May.
We feel good and have keen appetite. The great passage is planned tomorrow.
"18
May. There was strong wind yesterday. The sherps refuse flatly to ascend. We have
decided to ascend on the 22nd of May. We are planning, 20, May - 7500m, 21, May
- 8300m and 22, May - the summit. The sherps are installing 8300m. The whole expedition
was gathered together in the evening. There was the meeting in the ABC and we
made the decision that Abramov, Tzarev, Pushkarev and Kaimachnikov would ascend
the first. Moskalev, Soipher and Latinskiy would follow, 20, May - the North Col,
21, May - 7500m, 22, May - 7900m, 23, May - 8300m, 24, May - the summit. Larin,
Pashkov, Elagin, Sergeev would ascend, 22, May - the North Col, 23, May - 7500m,
24, May - 7900m, 25, May - 8300m, 26, May - the summit.
The period of expectation
will be finished tomorrow.
"17,
May. Some members from the expedition of Baltic States came to our camp in the
morning. We have been playing cards all day and waiting for the better weather.
Igor Tzarev wanted to dry his sleeping bag and it was flown away towards the neighbor
camp. Most of the expeditions are planning the ascension on the 22nd of May. Yura
Soipher and Dima Moskalev came to the ABC in the evening. It is snowing hardly
in the ABC. We were invited to celebrate the birthday in the expedition from Saint
Petersburg. There were a lot of friendly speeches and the self-made cake. It was
an agreement that we would communicate with them during ascension using portable
radio transmitter. The wind has dropped and the snow has begun. Our prospects
of climbing are perfect.
"16
May. Have you ever seen the film "Groundhog Day"? I get up and notice
that every day is the same. We have been at the height of 6500m for nine days
already. We are looking forward to the good weather. The height is very injurious
for health, energy and brain especially. The expeditions postpone the time of
ascension. The problem is that above 8300m there are no railing ropes. Sherps
are not able to ascend because of the wind. We have known about the deaths of
the climbers in CHO-OIU. Misha Latinskiy went to the ABC at 6 o'clock; the full
moon helped him to find the way. We are planning to go out tomorrow or the day
after tomorrow.
It is the end of the message,
Bye"
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